loZ-i «% f~ •*«■* ** *** '--H 

THE 

NAVAL APPRENTICE'S KEDGE ANCHOR 



/Si 



OR 



YOUNG SAILORS ASSISTANT. 



DEDICATED TO JOHN GALLAGHER, Esq. 

CAPTAIN UNITED STATES NAVY. 



APPERTAINING TO THE PRACTICAL EVOLUTIONS OP SEAMAN- 
SHIP, RIGGING, KNOTTING, SPLICING BLOCKS, PURCHASES, 
RUNNING RIGGING, AND OTHER MISCELLANEOUS MAT- 
TERS APPLICABLE TO SHIPS OF WAR AND OTHERS. 

WITH PLATES. 

APPROVED, AND HIGHLY RECOMMENDED BY A NUMBER OP OUR 
MOST DISTINGUISHED NAVAL OFFICERS. 



BY WILLIAM BRADY, BOATSWAIN, U. S. N. 



NEW YORK : 
PUBLISHED BY TAYLOR AND CLEMENT. 



1841. 




* .>y 4 3 




Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1841, by 

WILLIAM BRADY, 

In the Clerk's office of the District Court of the Southern District 
of New-York. 



9 



PREFACE. 



In offering the following work to the public, the 
author deems no apology necessary, as it was written 
for the use of the U. S. Naval Apprentices, as a ready 
means of introducing them 10 the theory of that art 
by which they must expect to advance in the profes- 
sion they have chosen. 

He flatters himself, however, that it will be found 
useful to any who intend to embrace the Sailor life, 
and particularly to those destined for the Navy. 

Should it fall into the hands of the learned, they 
will bear in mind that he is better versed with the 
marlingspike than the pen, and that it was composed 
in the hours of relaxation from official duties. 

He is not aware that there is any other work of this 
kind, except those which are large and expensive ; 
he therefore hopes this may be received for that wrnch 



4 PREFACE. 

it is intended to be, a Kedge Anchor for the youthful 
sailor. The work has been submitted to the inspec- 
tion of a number of experienced naval officers, who 
have given it their decided approbation, and some of 
whose names are appended to the work. 

With these few remarks he submits it to a discern- 
ing public, to stand or fall on its own merits. 



INDEX. 



1. 


To knot 


a Rope yarn. 


2. 


To make 


a Fox. 


3. 


(i 


u 


a Spanish Fox. 


4. 


tt 


u 


a Knitlle. 


5. 


it 


u 


an Overhanded Knot. 


6. 


a 


u 


a Figure of 8 Knot. 


7. 


a 


u 


two Half Hitches. 


8. 




a 


a Reef or Square Knot. 


9. 


a 


it 


a Bowline Knot. 


10. 


a 


a 


a Bowline on a Bight. 


11. 


tt 


a 


a Running Bowline. 


12. 


it 


u 


a Timber Hilch. 


13. 


tt 


tt 


a Fisherman's Bend; 


14. 


u 


it 


a Rolling Bend. 


15. 


u 


tt 


a Cavrick Bend". 


16. 


a 


tt 


a Cats Paw. 


17. 


u 


i- 


: a Sheet or Becket Bend 


18. 


(C 


tt 


a Back Wall. 


19. 


a 


a 


a Rolling Hitch. 
1* 













CONTENTS. 


20. 


To make 


a Selvage Strap. 


21. 


M 


ii 


a Pudding for a Mast or Yard. 


22. 


II 


ii 


a Short Splice. 


23. 


<( 


ii 


a Long Splice. 


24. 


U 


ii 


an Eye Splice. 


25. 


CI 


ii 


a Cut Splice. 


26. 


II 


ii 


a Flemish Eye. 


27. 


II 


u 


an Artificial Eye. 


28. 


To 


worm and serve a Rope. 


29. 


To 


clap < 


m a Throat and Quarter Seizing. 


30. 


To make 


i a Turk's Head. 


31. 


To 


sheepshank a Rope or Backstay. 


32. 


To 


put a 


strand in a Rope. 


33. 


To Wall 


and Crown. 


34. 


To make 


i a Matthew Walker. 


35. 


(t 


ii 


a Spritsnil Sheet Knot. 


36. 


ii 


« 


a Shroud Knot. 


37. 


ii 


i. 


a French Shroud Knot. 


38. 


u 


•a 


a Single Diamond. 


39. 


a 


a 


a Double Diamond. 


40. 


n 


.i 


a Stopper Knot. 


41. 


ii 


u 


a Buoy Rope Knot. 


42. 


ii 


II 


Common Sennit. 


43. 


ii 


II 


a Sea Gasket. 


44. 


it 


II 


a Pauch or wrought Mat. 


45. 


ii 


II 


a Harbour Gasket, or French Sen- 
nit. 


46. 


Pointing 


a Rope. 



CONTENTS. 



47. 


To make a Gromet. 


48. 


11 pass a Rose Lashing. 


49. 


" weave a Sword Mat. 


50. 


" make a Lashing Cleat 




BLOCKS, 


51. 


A Shell, Pin, and Sheave. 


52. 


" Single Block. 


53. 


" Double Block. 


54. 


" Treble Block. 


55. 


« Shoulder Block. 


56. 


" Fiddle Block. 


57. 


" Shoe Block. 


58. 


" Sister Block. 


59. 


" Monkey Block. 


60. 


" Dead Eye. 


61. 


" Bull's Eye. 


62. 


" Heart. 


63. 


" Belaying Pin Rack. 


64. 


" Euphroe. 


65. 


" Horn Cleat. 


66. 


« Bee Cleat. 


67. 


" Strop for a Block. 


68. 


" Tail Block. 


69. 


" Purchase Block. 


70. 


" Top Block. 


71. 


" Cat Block. 


72. 


« Snatch Block. 



CONTENTS. 

73. A Nun Buoy. 

74. To bend a Buoy Rope. 

75. " Pudding the ring of an anchor. 

76. " make a Jacob's Ladder. 

77. Can Hooks. 

78. Hogshead Slings. 

79. Barrel Slings. 

80. A Single Whip. 

81. " Gun Tackle Purchase. 

82. " Luff Tackle Purchase. 

83. « Top Burton. 

84. Whip and Runner. 

85. A Runner Tackle. 

86. " Two-fold Purchase. 

87. " Three-fold Purchase. 

88. Names of Rope. 

89. Rig Ship. To get Sheers on board. 

90. To raise the Sheers. 

91. " take in the Mizen Mast. 

92. " " in Main and Foremast. 

93. " " in the Bowsprit. 

94. " rig the Foremast. 

95. " " Main and Mizen Mast. 

96. " get the Top over. 

97. " swifter in the Lower Rigging. 

98. " set up Lower Rigging. 

99. " get on board the Topmast. 
100. " rig the Topmast. 



CONTENTS. s 9 

101. To get on board and rig Jib-boom. 

102. " swifter in Topmast Rigging. 

103. " rig the Spritsail Yard. 

104. " get on board, rig, and send aloft Royal 

and Top-gallant Masts. 

105. " get on board and rig flying Jib-boom. 

106. u get on board and rig Topsail Yards. 

107. " cross Topsail Yards. 

108. " get on board, and rig Lower Yards. 

109. " get aloft the Lower Yards. 

110. " get on board the Spanker Boom and Gaff. 

111. " get on board and rig the Top-gallant 

Yards. 

112. " rig a lower Studding-sail Boom. 

113. u rig a Topmast Studding-sail Boom. 

114. " rig a Top-gallant Studding-sail Boom. 

115. " rig the Boat and Fish Davits. 

116. " cut the Lower Rigging. 

117. The Topmast and Top-gallant Rigging. 

118. " Breast and Standing Back Stays. 

119. " Cat harpin legs and Futtock Shrouds. 

120. To cut the Fore and Aft Stays. 

121. " cut the Runner Pendants. 

122. Bob Stays. 

123. To cut Bowsprit Shrouds. 

124. The Jib and flying Jib Guys. 

125. " Running Rigging. 

126. " Main and Main-spring Stays. 



10 CONTENTS. 

127. The Mizen Stay. 

128. " Fore- topmast, and Spring Stays. 

129. « Jib Stay. 

130. " Main Topmast Stay. 

131. « Fore Top-gallant Stay. 

132. Flying Jib Stay. 

133. Main Top-gallant Stay. 

134. Mizen Top-gallant Stay. 

135. Fore Royal Stay. 

136. Main Royal Stay. 

137. Bob Stays. 

138. Bowsprit Shrouds. 

139. Jib Martingale Stays. 

140. Flying Jib Martingale Stays. 

141. Breast Back Stays. 

142. Standing Backstays. 

TO REEVE RUNNING RIGGING. 

143. Lower Lifts. 

144. To reeve Quarter Lifts. 

145. " V Topsail Lifts. 

146. " " Reef Tackles. 

147. " " Top-gallant Lifts. 

148. " " Royal Lifts. 

149. « " Spritsail Lifts. 

150. " " Lower Boom Topping Lifts. 

151. " " Topmast Studding-sail Boom Top- 

ping Lifts. 



CONTENTS. 11 

152. Spanker Boom Topping Lifts. 

153. Fore Braces. 

154. " Topsail Braces. 

155. " Top-gallant Braces. 

156. " Royal Braces. 

157. Main Braces. 

158. " Topsail Braces. 

159. " Top-gallant Braces. 

160. " Royal Braces. 

161. Cross Jack Braces. 

162. Mizen Topsail Braces. ' 

163. « Top-gallant Braces. 

164. " Royal Braces. 

165. Spritsail Braces. 

166. Topmast Studding-sail Boom Braces. 

167. Fore Bowline. 

168. " Top Bowline. 

169. " Top-gallant Bowline. 

170. " Royal Bowline. 

171. Main Bowline. 

172. " Top Bowline. 

173. " Top-gallant Bowline. 

174. " Royal Bowline. 

175. Mizen Top Bowline. 

176. " Top-gallant Bowlines. 

177. " Royal Bowlines. 

178. Fore Topmast Staysail Halliards. 

179. Jib Halliards. 



12 



CONTENTS. 



180. Flying Jib Halliards. 

181. Fore Topsail Halliards. 

182. Main Topsail Halliards. 

183. Mizen Topsail Halliards. 

184. Fore Top-gallant Halliards. 

185. Main Top-gallant Halliards. 

186. Mizen Top-gallant Halliards. 

187. Fore, Main, and Mizen Royal Halliards. 

188. Main Topmast Staysail Halliards. 

189. Mizen Staysail Halliards. 

190. Gaff, Throat Halliards. 

191. " Peak Halliards. 

192. Lower Studding-sail Halliards. 

193. Topmast « " 

194. Fore Topmast Staysail Downhaul. 

195. Jib Downhaul. 

196. Flying Jib Downhaul. 

197. Topsail Downhaul. 

198. Main Topmast Staysail Downhaul. 

199. Mizen Staysail Downhaul. 

200. Topmast Studding-sail Downhaul. 

201. Top-gallant Studding-sail Downhaul. 

202. Royal Studding-sail Downhaul. 

203. Main Tack. 

204. Jib and Fore Topmast Staysail Tacks. 

205. Spanker Tack. 

206. Topmast, Top-gallant, and Royal Studding- 

sail Tacks. 



CONTENTS* 



13 



207. Main Topmast Staysail Tack. 

208. Lower Studding-sail Outhauls. 

209. Spanker Outhaul. 

210. Fore and Main Sheets. 
811. Topsail Sheets. 

212. Top-gallant and Royttl Sheets. 

213. Fore Topmast Staysail and Jib Sheets. 

214. Flying Jib Sheets. 

215. Mizen Staysail Sheet. 

216. Spanker Sheet. 

217. Lower Studding-sail Sheets. 

218. Topmast Studding-sail Sheets. 

219. Top-gallant and Royal Studding-sail Sheets. 

220. Clue Garnets. 

221. Topsail and Top-gallant Clew Lines. 

222. Royal Clew Lines. 

223. Lower Studding-sail Clew Lines. 

224. Fore and Main Bunt Lines. 

225. Topsail Bunt Lines. 

226. Top-gallant Bunt Lines. 

227. Leech Lines. 

228. « " 

229. After Leech Lines. 

230. Spanker Brails. 

231. Trysail Brails. 

232. Main Topmast Staysail Brails. 

233. Jib Brails. 

234. Jib and Flying Jib Guys. 

2 



14 CONTENTS. 

235. Lower Boom Guys. 

236. « " after Guys. 

237. Spanker Boom Guys. 

238. Storm Staysail Gear. 

239. Staysail Jack Stays. 

240. Staysail Downhaul Blocks. 

241. Stow, Hold, and Spirit Room. 

242. Stow the Casks. 

243. « Naval Stores. 

244. Get on board Cables. 

245. Chain Cables. 

246. Get an anchor on board. 

247. Bend Cables. 

248. Range and Stopper a Cable. 

249. Stoppers and Nippers. 

250. Trip Stopper. 

251. Deck " 

252. Ring " 

253. Bitt « 

254. Dog " 

255. Compressor or Combing Stopper. 

256. Nippers. 

257. To pass Nippers. 

258. " splice Cables. 

259. Cut and pass Messenger. 

260. Dip Messenger. 

261. Get Guns on Board. 

262. Ship and Unship a Rudder. 



CONTENTS. 15 

263,, Bend Sails. 

264. " Flying Jib, Jib and Fore Topmast Stay- 

sail. 

265. To carry out an Anchor. 

266. " Haul Off and Moor Ship. 

267. Getting in Spare Spars. 

268. Station the Crew. 

269. « " " at Quarters. 

270. ~ u " " " <c 

271. " Cl •* Mooring and , Unmooring. 

272. " " " Loosing and Furling. 

273. " " " Tacking and Veering. 

274. " H " Reefing. 

275. Mark a Lead Line. 

276. " a Log « 

277. Clear Hawse. 

278. " « 

279. Weigh an Anchor with the Launch. 

280. " " " by the Buoy Rope. 

281. To take in a Launch. 

282. " " in" Boats, both sides at once. 

283. Unmoor Ship. 

284. " when the Messenger strands, or is 

likely to part. 

285. " leeward tide, to get Under Way and 

stand out on a Wind. 

286. To get Under Way and stand before the 

Wind. 



16 CONTENTS. 

287. In getting Under Way, back astern to avoid 

Danger. 

288 Getting Under Way, a Shoal on each Beam. 

289. Get Under Way. at Anchor in a Narrow 

Channel. 

290. Head to Wind, Cast on the Larboard Tack. 

291. Windward tide, get Under Way and Stand 

before the Wind. 

252. To get Under Way and Stand out on a Wind. 

293. " get Under Way, head to tide and Wind 

on Starboard Quarter. 

294. To get underway, wind across the tide. 

295. " " " Flood Tide. 

296. Back and fill in a Tideway. 

297. Drive before the Wind. 

298. Drive Broadside too. 

299. Secure the Ship for Sea. 

300. Stow Anchors for Sea. 

301. Make Sail when getting under way. 

302. To set Top-gallant Sails, blowing fresh. 

303. " Courses, moderate weather. 

304. " " blowing fresh: 

305. " Spanker. 

306. " Jib. 

307. A Man Overboard, by the Wind. 

308. Set Lower Studding Sails. 

309. Take in Top-gallant Sails. 

310. " Top Mast Studding Sails. 



CONTENTS. IT 

311. Reef Top Sails and Courses. 

312. Reef Top Sails in Stays. 

313. Part a Weather Top Sail brace in reefing. 

314. « Top Sail Yard Parel. 

315. To take in close reefed Top Sail. 

316. " a Course. 

317. " a Spanker. • 

318. " a Jib. 

319. Set a elose reefed Top-sail. 

320. Jib Splits. 

321. Close reefed Top-sail Splits. 

322. Course Splits. 

323. Bend a New Course before the Old One is 

unbent. 

324. Secure Guns for a Gale. 

325. Breeching bolts begin to draw. 

326. A Gun adrift. 

327. Send down Top-gallant Yards. 

328. House Top-gallant Masts. 

329. On a Lee Shore, Jib Courses and Spanker 

under Top-gallant Sails. 

330. Tacking under double reefed Top-sails. 

331. To Clubhaul, Missing Stays. 

332. On a Lee Shore to reduce Sail. 

333. A Ship on Shore, what to do. 

334. Precautions for Scudding, 

335. Broaching too. 

336. Brought by the Lee. 



18 CONTENTS. 

337. To heave too. 

338. To veer under close reefed Top-sails and 

Stay-sails. 

339. To veer under Main-sail. 

340. " « Bare Poles. 

341. Cut away a Mast. 

342. Laying too under lower Stay-sails, veer Ship. 

343. Lying too, a Sail is discovered ahead, and 

close aboard. 

344. Fore-mast carried away. 

345. Rig a Jury-mast. 

346. Main-mast carried away. 

347. Bowsprit carried away. 

348. Top-mast carried away. 

349. Jib boom carried away. 

350. Fore-mast and Bowsprit carried away. 
451 . Bowsprit sprung. 

352. Fore-mast sprung. 

353. Top-mast sprung. 

354. To send aloft a Top-mast in a heavy head sea. 

355. Gammoning carried away. 

356. Lower cap splits. 

357. .Trussle trees sprung. 

358. Lower Yard carried away. 

359. Top-sail Yard carried away. 

360. Ship Leaks. 

361. Pumps Choked. 

362. Shot gets loose in a Gun in a Gale. 



CONTENTS. 19 

363. Throw a Lower Deck Gun overboard. 

364. Turn out Reefs. 

365. Rudder carried away. 

366. Ship on Fire. 

367. " " Beam ends. 

368. Wind free, all sail set, struck by a squall. 

369. Struck by a squall on a Lee Shore. 

370. " " " under Top-sails, and 
Courses. 

371. Part weather Main-top-sail braces. 

372. " Jib down haul. 

373. To chase. 

874. " " to windward. 

375. Observations for the Ship to windward. 

376. Chase to Leeward. 

377. To windward of an enemy Main rigging 

shot away. 

378. Wind on the 'quarter bring by under double 

reefed Top-sails. 

379. Wind on the quarter, all sail set, bring too 

on the other tack under double reefed Top- 
sails. 

380. Get the Anchor off the bows. 

381. To Anchor head to Wind. 

382. " " on a Lee Shore. 

383. Scudding under Fore-sail to come to an an- 

chor. 

384. To make a Flying Moor, 



20 



CONTENTS. 



385. To Moor with a long Scope. 

386. Blowing Fresh, in Port. 

387. Send down lower Yards. 

388. House Top-masts. 

389. Back a Bower by a Stream. 

390. Sweep for an Anchor. 

391. Explanation of Sea Terms. 

MISCELLANEOUS ARTICLES. 

1. Boatswain. 

2. Squaring Yards. — Hints. 

3. Turning the hands up. — Hints. 

4. Inspection, morning and Evening. 

5. " of Stowed Anchors. 

6. Setting up Rigging at Sea. 

7. Inspection of Boats. 

8. Slacking the Jib Stay in bad weather. 

9. Clearing for Action. 

10. Caution in getting in the Bowsprit. 

11. Stopping out Top-gallant Yard Rope. 

12. Preventer Braces. 

13. Reeveing Running Rigging. 

14. Topsail Tyes. 

15. Blacking the Rigging. 

16. Top-gallant Mast Rope. 
17* Fore and Main Buntlines. 

18. Futtock Shrouds. 

19. Tops and Half Tops. 



CONTENTS. 21 

20. Striking Topmasts. 

21. Swaying up Topmasts. 

22. Unmooring. 

23. Reef Lines to the Topsail. 

24. Reefing Courses. 

25. Top-gallant Mast Struck. 

26. Keeping a Clear Anchor. 

27. Anchor Turning in the Ground. 

28. To tend a Weather Tide. 
29- A Man Overboard. 

30. Hailing Aloft. 

31. Jib Stay and Halyards. 

32. Proportions for Cables. 

33. " " Anchor. 

34. What length is necessary to form a Clinch. 

35. To splice an old Cable to a new one. 

36. " send up Top-gallant Yards. 

37. " keep the Hawse clean when moored. 

38. " tend to Windward, Single Anchor. 

39. " " " Leeward. 

40. " back the Ship. 

41. " break the Sheer. 

42. " strip Ship. 

43. Gammoning the Bowsprit. 

44. A Table, shewing the length of the first warp 

of Standing Rigging. 

45. A Cordage Table of Feet and Fathoms, 

46. Continued. 



22 CONTENTS. 

47. Weight of Cables, 1 20 Fathoms, from 3 to 24 

inches; 

48. How many Fathoms make 112 pounds. 

49. Proportions of Spars of Merchant Ships, 

length of Spars. 

50. Thickness of Spars. 
51; Yards. 

52. Distance for Lower Masts: 

53. Breadth of Tops. 

54. Rule for placing Masts in a Ship. 

55. To find the Tonnage of a ship by U. S. mea- 

surement. 

56. Stepping and Raking Lower Masts. 

57. Method of an Estimate of Standing arid Run- 

ning Rigging required for the outfit 
of a 44 gun Frigate. 

58. Shroud laid Cordage. 

59. 44 Gun Frigate continued. 

60. " continued. 

61. Fore Rigging to be in Warps by pairs. 

62. Main Shrouds in Warps by pairs. 

63. Mizen Rigging to be in one Warp. 

64. 44 Gun Ship continued. 

65. Estimate of the Standing and Running Rig- 

ging required for the outfit of a 
Sloop of War of the First Class, 
mounting 22 guns. 

66. Running Rigging Shroud laid. 



CONTENTS. 23 

67. Dimensions of the Standing and Running 

Rigging of a Ship of the Line of the 
U. S. Navy. 

68. An Estimate of the size and quantity of 

Blocks required to fit out a Ship of 
the Line. 
69^ Miscellaneous Articles. 

70. Anchors. 

71. Distance from the Spar Deck of the U. S. 

Ship North Carolina. 

72. . Dimensions of the Masts, Spars, &c. 

73. " of a First Class Frigate. 

74. Scale of the weights of Cables, Anchors, and 

Hawsers, &c. 

RECEIPTS. 

75. For Blacking ships Standing Rigging. 

76. " " Guns. 

77. " " Hammock Cloths. 

78. " making Liquid Blacking. 

79. " Blacking Guns. 

80. Composition for Blacking Guns. 

81. For making Black Yarn is h. 

82. Composition for Blacking Hammock Cloths. 

No. 1. 

83. Do. No. 2. 

84. Do. No. 3- 

85. Do. No. 4. 



24 CONTENTS. 

86. Composition for making Black Varnish. 

87. Solder for Tin. 

88. " « Lead. 

89. To make the best Drying Oil. 

90. For making Black Stain. 



RECOMMENDATIONS. 



Examined and approved, as a very useful book 
for young officers and others in the navy. 

John Gallagher, 

Captain U. S. Navy. 



I fully concur in the above. 

E. Peck, 

Lieut. U. S Navy. 



I have examined the within treatise on seaman- 
ship, and other miscellaneous matter appertaining to 
ships, and vessels of war, (written by William Brady, 
Boatswain U. S. Navy.) It affords me ^much plea- 
sure to recommend the same to the junior officers of 
the navy, and others, who may be disposed to learn 
the profession of seamanship. 

W. C. Wetmore, 

Lieut. U. S. Navy. 
3 



26 RECOMMENDATIONS. 

Examined and approved as a work that will be 
useful to the service. 

J. D. L. Saunders, 

Lieut. U. S. Navy. 
J. Mattison, 

Lieut. U. S. Navy. 

I have carefully examined the within work on sea- 
manship, and think it one well calculated for the in- 
struction of young officers. 

C. G. Hunter, 

Lieut. U. S. Navy. 



I have closely examined the within work, and 
think it One well calculated for the instruction of the 
young officers, and others in the navy. 

James Renshaw, 

Capt. U. S. Navy. 



I fully concur in the above. 

Francis O. Ellison, 

Master U. S. Navy. 



This I conceive to be a valuable work, and well 
calculated to be useful to the service. 
Joshua R. Sands, 

Commander U. S. Navy. 



KEDGE ANCHOR. 



We shall first commence with knotting a rope 
yarn. 

1. To Knot a Rope Yam. 

To knot a rope yarn, you first take the two ends of 
your yarns, and split them open about two inches 
from the end, and if to make a smooth knot, you may 
scrape down a little with your knife, so as to make the 
ends lay smooth, you then crutch them together as 
you see in the plate No. 1, you then take two opposite 
ends leaving the other two vacant, taking one end 
over and the other under the standing part of the 
yarn, and connecting them together at the same side 
you took them from at first, then jam your knot taut 
to see if it will stand test, by stretching the yarn from 



28 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

knee to knee, and hauling on it, and if the knot stands 
without drawing, you may trim your ends, and go on. 



2. To make a Fox. 

Take two or three rope yarns and make them fast 
to a belaying pin, and stretch them out taut, twist 
them together on your knee, then rub it down smooth 
with a piece of old tarred parcelling. This is called a 
fox and is used for many purposes, such as making 
gaskets, mats, plats, temporary seizings, bending stud- 
ding sails, <fcc. 



3. To make a Spanish Fox. 

Take a single rope yarn and make one end fast to 
a belaying pin as before, and untwist and twist it up 
again the contrary way, and rub it smooth ; this is 
used for small seizings, &c. 



4. To make a Knittle. 

A knittle is made of two or three rope yarns laid 
up together by hand, twisting them in your finger 
and thumb, and laying them up against the twist of 
the yarn, they are used for many purposes on board 
a ship, and particularly for hammock clews. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 29 

5. Overhanded Knot. 

To make an overhanded knot, you pass the end of 
a rope over the standing part and through the bight. 



6. Figure of Eight Knots. 

Take the end of your rope round the standing part, 
under its own part and through the lower bight, and 
your knot is made. 



7. Two Half Hitches. 

Pass the end of your rope round the standing part, 
and bring it up through the bight, this is one half 
hitch, two of these, one above the other, and it is 
made. 



8. Reef or Square Knot. 

First make an overhanded knot round a yard, or 
spar, or anything you please, then bring the end being 
next to you over the left hand and through the bight, 
and haul both ends taut and it is made. 



30 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

9. A Bowline Knot. 

Take the end of your rope in your right hand, and 
the standing part in the left hand, then lay the end 
over the standing part, then with your left hand turn 
the bight of the standing part over the end part, so 
as to form a cuckold's neck on the standing part, then 
lead your end round the standing part above, and 
stick it down through the cuckolds neck, and it will 
appear as in the plate. 



10. Bowline on the Bight. 

Take the bight of your rope in your right hand, 
and the standing part in the other, throw a Guckolds 
neck over the bight with the standing parts, then 
haul enough of your bight up through the cuckolds 
neck to go under and over all parts, and jam all taut, 
and it will appear as in the plate. 



11. A Running Bowline. 

Take the end of your rope round the standing part 
and through the bight, and make a single bowline 
upon the running part, and your knot is made. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 31 

12. A Timber Hitch. 

Take the end of your rope round a spar, and pass 
it under and over the standing part, then pass several 
turns round its own part and it is done. 



13. A Fisherman 's Bend. 

With the end of a rope take two round turns round 
a spar, or through the ring of a kedge anchor, then 
take one half hitch around the standing part and un- 
der all parts of your turns, then one half hitch around 
the standing part above all, and stop the end to the 
standing part ; or you can dispense with the last half 
hitch, and tuck your end under one of the round turns 
and it becomes a studding-sail bend. 



14. A Rolling Bend. 

A rolling bend is something similar to fisherman's 
bend, it is two round turns round a spar as you see 
in the plate, two half hitches around the standing 
part, and the end stopped back. (See plate.) 



15. A Carrick Bend. 
This bend is more used in bending hawsers to- 



32 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

gether, more than any thing else. In forming this 
bend you will take the end of your hawser and form 
a bight, by laying the end part on the top of the 
standing part, so as to form a cross, then take the 
end of the other hawser, and reeve it down 
through this bight and up and over this cross, then 
tuck the end down through the bight again on the 
opposite side, from the other end, for one end must 
be on the top, and the other underneath as you see 
in the plate. 

HJ 3 If both end parts come out on the top it will 
be a granney's knot. Remember this. 



16. A Cats Paw. 

This is generally used in the ends of lanyards, to 
hook a tackle to in setting up rigging, to form it, you 
first lay the end part of your lanyard across the 
standing part which will form a bight, then lay hold 
of the bight with one hand on each side of it, break- 
ing it down and turning it over from you two or 
three times, then clap both bights together and hook 
on to both parts. (See Plate.) 



17* A Sheet or Becket Bend. 
Pass the end of your rope through the bight of 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 33 

another rope, or through the becket of a block, then 
round both parts of the bight or becket, and take the 
end under its own part, as you see in the plate. Some 
people put it under twice and stop the end back to 
the standing part. 



18. A Back Wall 

This is used with a lanyard in setting up rigging 
to hook a luff tackle to, instead of a cats paw, where 
the end of your lanyard is not long enough to form 
a paw, but a strap and toggle is preferable to both, 
to make a back-wall over a hook, you form a bight 
or rather a kink with the end of your lanyard, hav- 
ing the end part underneath, and the standing part 
on the top, then stick the hook through the bight, 
keeping the bight well up on the beck of the hook, 
as you see in the plate, until you set taut your tackle. 
Note. You can learn it better by practice than 
explanation. 



19, A Rolling Hitch. 

With the end of a rope take a half hitch round 
the standing part, then take another through the 
same bight, jambing it in above the first hitch and 
the upper part of the bight, then haul it taut, and 



34 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

dog your end above your hitch, around the standing 
part, or you may take a half hitch around the stand- 
ing part, and stop yonr end back with a yarn. 



20. A Selvage Strap. 

To make a Selvage strap you may get a couple 
of spike nails, and drive into an old piece of plank 
or whatever you can find convenient to answer the 
purpose, or you can take two hooks if you can get 
them, and lash them to any convenient place as far 
apart as the length you intend to make your strap, 
then take the end of your ball of rope yarns, and 
make it fast to one of the spikes or hooks, then take 
it around the other one, and keep passing round and 
round, and hauling every turn taut as you pass it, 
until it is as stout as you wish it to be, if it is to be a 
very large strap, marl it down with stout spurn yarn, 
if middling size, two single rope yarns, if a small 
strap, a single rope yarn. 



21. A Pudding for a Mast or Yard* 

Take a piece of rope the length you require, and 
splice an eye in each end, then get it on a stretch 
and worm it, then parcel it according to the shape 
you want it. They are generally made as you see 



<3 



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I 



1 



LC) 



J?%pft,eT , mciTi& besn-J 



JHgure t'fJitifffiE ~kn(>l _ 




YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 35 

in the plate, large in the middle, and taper gradually 
towards the ends, and made flat on the side that 
goes next to the mast or yard, when you have got it 
the size you wish, marl it down, beginning in the 
middle and marling both ways, until you come to the 
eye, if it is for a yard it is generally covered with 
thick leather or green hide, if for a mast, it is pointed 
over for neatness. 



22. A Short Splice. 

To splice the two ends of a rope together, you 
first unlay your rope to a convenient length, then 
crutch them together as you see in the plate, then 
you must lay hold of the three strands next to you 
in your left hand, holding them solid around the 
other part till you stick your three upper ends, 
or if it is a large rope, you may stop your ends with 
a yarn, then take the upper or middle end, and pass 
it over the first strand next to it, and then stick it un- 
derneath the second strand, and haul it taut in the 
lay of the rope, then turn your rope a little to you, 
and stick your second end as you did your first, and 
your third in the same manner, hauling them taut 
along the lay, then turn your rope round, and stick 
the other three ends in the same way, and it will ap- 
pear as in the plate. 



36 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

Note. If you intend to serve over your ends, you 
need not stick them but once, but if not you must 
stick them twice and cross whip them across the 
strands, so as to make them more secure. If you in- 
tend to serve over your ends, you must take a few 
of your underneath yarns, enough to fill up the lay 
of your rope for worming, then scrape or trim your 
outside ends, and marl them down ready for serving. 



23. A Long Splice. 

To make a long splice unlay the end of two ropes 
to a convenient distance, then crutch them together 
the same as a short splice, then unlay one strand for 
a considerable length, and fill up the space which it 
leaves, with the opposite strand next to it, then slew 
your rope round, and lay hold of the two next strands 
that will come opposite their respective lays, then 
unlay one and fill up with the other as before, then 
cut off your long strands, square with the short 
strands, and it will appear as in the plate. To com- 
plete this splice, you will split the strands equally 
in two, then take the two opposite half strands and 
knot them together, so as to fill up the vacant lay, 
then you stick your ends twice under two strands 
with all six of your half strands, leaving the other 
six neutral, then stretch your splice well before you 
cut your ends off and it is finished. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 37 

24. Eye Splice. 

Is made by opening the end of a rope and laying 
the strands at any distance upon the standing part 
of the rope, according to the size you intend to 
make your eye splice, you then divide your strands 
by putting one strand on the top and one under- 
neath the standing part, then take your middle 
strand, having previously opened the lay with a 
marlinespike, and stick it under its respective strand 
as you see in the plate ; your next end is taken over 
the first strand and under the second, and the third 
and last end is taken through the third strand on the 
other side. 



25. A Cut Splice. 

Cut a rope in two, and according to the size you 
intend to make your splice or collar, lay the end of 
one rope on the standing part of the other, and stick 
the end through between the strands the same as an 
eye splice, and it will appear as in the plate. This forms 
a collar in the bight of a rope, and is used for pen- 
dants, jib-guys, breast-back stays, odd shrouds, &c. 



26. A Flemish Eye. 

Unlay the end of a rope, then open the strands 
4 



38 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

and separate every yarn, then divide them in two 
halves, then take a piece of round wood, the size you 
intend to make your eye, and half knot about one 
half of your inside yarns over the piece of wood as 
you see in the plate, scrape the remainder down 
over the others, and marl, parcel and serve, or hitch 
it with hamberline, if you choose; this makes a snug 
eye for the collars of stays. 



27. An Artificial Eye. 

Take the end of a rope, and unlay one strand to 
a certain distance, and form the eye by placing the 
two strands along the standing part of the rope and 
stopping them fast to it, then take the odd strand and 
cross it over the standing part, and lay it into the 
vacant place you took it from at first, work around 
the eye, filling up the vacant strand until it comes 
out at the crutch again, and lies under the other 
two strands ; the ends are tapered and scraped 
down, marled and served over with spun yarn. 



28. To worm and serve a rope. 

Worming a rope is to fill up the vacant space be- 
tween the strands of the rope with spun yarn, this 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. j 39 

is done in order to strengthen it, and to render the 
surface smooth and round for parcelling. 

Parcelling a rope is wrapping old canvass round it, 
cut in strips from two to three inches wide according 
to the size of the rope, the strips of canvass to be 
well tarred and rolled up in rolls before you com- 
mence to lay it on the rope, the service is of spun 
yarn, clapped on by a wooden mallet such as you 
see in the plate, called a serving mallet, it has got a 
large score cut in the under part of it, so as to fay on 
the rope and a round handle about a foot long, or 
according to the size of the mallet ; the service is al- 
ways laid on against the lay of the rope, a boy passes 
the ball of spun yarn at some distance from the man 
that is serving the rope, and passes it round as he 
turns the mallet, when he has put the required length 
of service, the end is put through under the three or 
four last turns of the service and hauled taut. 

Note. It has always been customary to put par- 
celling on with the lay of the rope in all cases. But 
rigging that you do not intend to serve over, the 
parcelling ought to be put on the contrary way. 



29. To clap on a Throat and quarter seizing. 

Splice an eye in the end of the seizing, and take 
the other end round both parts of the rope that you 



40 HEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

intend to put it on to } then reeve it through the eye, 
pass a couple of turns, and heave them hand taut, 
then make a marline-spike hitch on the seizing. By 
taking a turn with the seizing over the marlinespike 
and laying the end part over the standing part, and 
then pushing the marlinespike down through, then 
under the standing part, and up through the bite 
again, heave those two turns taut, with the spike, 
pass the rest and heave them taut in the same man- 
ner, making 6, 8, or ten turns according to the size 
of the rope, then push the end through the last turn, 
then pass the riding turns, 5, 7, or 9, always laying 
one less of the riding turns, than of the first turns; 
these ars not to be hove too taut, the end is now 
pushed up through the seizing, and two cross turns 
are taken between the two parts of the rope, and 
round the seizing, taking the end under the last 
turn, and hove well taut, and an overhanded knot 
clapped on the end of the seizing, and cut off close 
to the knot. 

Note. When this is clapped on the end of a rope, 
and round the standing part, it is called an end seiz- 
ing, if on the two parts, below the end, a middle or 
quarter seizing ; a throat seizing is passed the same 
way, but is not crossed with the end of the seizing. 



30. To make a Turlis head. 
Turk's heads are made on man ropes and some- 



TO fori 





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^ 








Q-. WXie-utir sj-j}i: 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 41 

times on the footropes of jibbooms in the place of an 
overhanded knot, as the Turk's head is much neater 
than the knot, and considered by some an ornament. 
It is generally made of small white line. Take a 
clove hitch with the line round the rope you intend 
to make the Turk's head on, then cross the bights on 
eaeh side of the clove hitch, and stick one end un- 
der one cross, and the other end under the other 
cross, and it will be formed like the middle figure in 
the plate, after which follow the lead until it show 
three parts all round, and it will be done. 



31. To Sheepshank a rope or Backstay. 

It is made for shortening a backstay, the rope is 
doubled in three parts as you see in the plate, and a 
hitch taken over each bight with the standing part 
of the Backstay, and jambed taut. 



32. To put a strand in a rope. 

This is done in case of one strand of a rope get- 
ting chafed or magged, and the other two remaining 
good. To perform this, you take your knife and cut 
the strand in the place where it is chafed, and unlay 

it about a couple of feet each -way, then take a 

4* 



42 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

strand of a rope as near the size as you can get, and 
lay it in the vacancy of your rope as you see in the 
plate, and stick your ends the same as a long splice. 



33. To Wall and Croxon. 

Unlay the end of a rope, and with the three 
strands form a wall knot, by taking the first strand 
and forming a bight, then take the next strand, and 
bring it round the end of the first, and the third 
strand round the second, and up through the bight 
of the first, this is a wall as you see in the plate. 
To crown this, lay one end over the top of the knot, 
which call the first, then lay the second over it and 
the third over the second, and through the bight of 
the first and it will appear as you see in the plate. 



34. To make a Matthew Walker. 

Is made by opening the strands of a rope and tak- 
ing the first strand round the rope and through its 
own bight, then take the second end round the rope 
underneath, through the bite of the first, and through 
its own bight, and the third end take round the same 
way, underneath and through the bights of all three, 
haul your ends well taut and it will appear as in the 
plate ; this is a good lanyard knot if well made. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 43 

35. A Spritsail Sheet Knot. 

Unlay two ends of a rope and place the two parts 
which were unlaid, together, form a bight with one 
strand, and wall the six together against the lay of 
the rope, which is hawser laid, the same as you would 
a single wall with three ends, after you have walled 
with six ends, haul them taut, and then you must 
crown with the six ends and it will appear as in the 
plate; to complete it you must follow the lead of the 
parts, and double wall and crown it and it is done. 
This is often used for a stopper knot in old fashion- 
ed ships. 

36. A Shroud Knot 

Unlay the ends of two ropes, placing them one 
within the other, the same as you commence to 
make a short splice, then single wall the ends of one 
rope round the standing part of the other, then wall 
the other three ends the same way, the ends are 
opened out and tapered down and served over with 
spun yarn ; this knot is used when a shroud is either 
shot or carried away. 



37. A French Shroud Knot, 
Place the ends of two ropes as before, drawing 



44 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

them close together, then lay your first three ends 
back upon their own part, and single wall the other 
three ends, round the bights of the other three and 
the standing part, and it will appear like the figure 
in the plate ; the ends are tapered as the other, this is 
a much snugger knot than the common shroud knot. 



38. Single Diamond Knot. 

Unlay the end of a rope a convenient length to 
make your knot, and with the three strands form 
three bights, holding the ends fast down the side of 
the rope in your left hand, with the standing part of 
the" rope, then take the first strand over the bight of 
the second strand and through the bite of the third, 
then take the second over the third and through the 
bight of the first, then the third over the first and 
through the second. Haul these taut and lay the 
ends of your strands up again and it will appear as 
in the plate. It is used for jibboom, foot ropes, man 
ropes, &c. 



39. A Double Diamond Knot. 

To make this, you make a single one as before, 
then take a marline spike and open your strands, 
and follow the lead through two single bights, the 




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YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 45 

ends coming out at the top of the knot, lay the ends 
of your strands up as before, and it will appear as 
in the plate. 



40. A Stopper Knot. 

Is made by double walling and crowning as has 
been described before on an other page, the ends, if 
very short are whipped without being layed up ; but 
if long they are layed up and stopped. 



41. A Buoy Rope Knot. 

Unlay the strands of a cable laid rope, then take 
one strand out of the large ones, and then lay the 
three large ones up again as before, and take the 
three small ones which were left out, and single and 
double wall them round the standing part of the 
rope, then take your spare ends, and worm them 
along the lay and stop them. 



42. Common Semiit. 

Sennit is made by plaiting rope yarns together as 
is described in the plate. 



46 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

43. A fSea Gasket. 

Is made by taking three or four foxes according 
to the size you intend to make your gasket. Middle 
them over a belaying pin, and plait three or four 
together, long enough to make your eye, then clap 
both parts together to form your eye, then plait it by 
bringing the outside foxes on each side alternately 
over to the middle, the outside one is laid with the 
right hand, and the remainder held steadily, work 
the whole together, adding one fox, and when you have 
got it a convenient length, commence to diminish by 
dropping a fox at proper intervals. To finish it, you 
must lay one end up, leaving its bight down, then 
plait the others through this bight, about one inch, 
then haul the bight taut, to secure all parts, and cut 
the ends oif, and whip it and it is done. 



44. A Panch or wrought Mat. 

A piece of six or nine thread is stretched in a hori- 
zontal direction, and the foxes according to the 
breadth you intend to make the mat, are middled 
and hung over it, then take the fox nearest the left 
hand, and twist a turn in the two parts, and one part 
give to the man opposite (two people being employed 
to work the mat,) the next fox has a turn twisted in 
its two parts, and one part given back to your part- 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 47 

ner, the remaining is twisted round the first which 
was given back, and then again round its own part, 
and so on with the remainder of the foxes, until you 
get it the breadth you wish, at the bottom of the mat 
selvage it by taking a piece of nine thread, the same 
as you used for the top, the two parts of the foxes 
which are twisted together at the bottom are divided, 
and the nine thread put between them, the foxes are 
hitched round it, and the end put through its own 
lay with a marlingspike, then trim your ends oft', 
and thrumb it with pieces of old strands of rope, cut 
in pieces, about three or four inches long, open the 
lays of your foxes with a marlingspike, and push 
your thrunubs through the lays and open the ends 
out. 



45. Harbour Gasket or French Sennit. 

Is made with foxes, something like the way you 
make a common sea gasket, in the room of taking 
the outside fox over all the rest, and bringing it into 
the middle, you interweave it between them by tak- 
ing the outside fox of both sides, and taking it over 
one and under the other, working it towards the 
middle the same as common sennit. 



46. Pointing a rope. 
Unlay the end of a rope a convenient length for 



48 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

pointing and stop it, open the strands out into yarns 
and take out as many of the outside yarns as you 
think it will require to make you knittles, by split- 
ting your yarns and making one knittle out of every 
outside yarn, then when they are made stop them 
back on the standing part of the rope, then form 
your point, with the rest of the yarns, by trimming 
and scraping them down to a proper size, then marl 
it down with twine, then divide your knittles, taking 
every other one up, and every other one down, then 
take a piece of twine which is called the warp, and 
pass three turns very taut, taking a hitch with the 
last turn, every time you pass the warp or rilling, 
then take the knittles which are up, and bring them 
down, and the ones which are down up, hauling 
them taut, and passing your warp, every time over 
your lower knittles, proceed in this way till you get 
almost to the end, reserving enough of your knittles 
to finish it with, leave out every other bight of the 
knittles of the last lay, and pass the warp through 
the bight and haul them taut and cut them off, some 
have a becket worked in the end. 

Note. Knittles are made by laying rope yarns to- 
gether with your finger and thumb against the twist 
of the yarn. Snaking, is for the better securing of a 
seizing, which is passed round the single part of a 
rope and therefore cannot be crossed. It is done by 
taking the end part of the seizing under and over the 
lower and upper turns of the seizing. 



n. 



* 

/% 

% 



\ 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 49 

47. To make a Gromet. 

A gromet is made by unlaying a strand of a rope 
and placing one part over the other, and with the 
long end follow the lay till it forms a ring with three 
parts of the strand all round, finish it by knotting and 
sticking your ends the same as a long splice. (See 
Plate.) 



48. Pass a Rose Lashing. 

- It is used in lashing a strop or pudding round a 
mast or yard, or the parrel lashing of a top gallant 
yard, the lashing passed cross-ways over and under 
one eye, then over and under the other, and the end 
part, afterwards taking in a circular form round the 
crossing, and the end tucked under the last part. 

Note. This circular part is done to expand the 
end in the room of cutting it oif so as it will answer 
again. 



49. To Weave a Sword Mat. 

A piece of wood called a sword is used, this is put 
alternately between the parts of the spun yarn or 
sennit, stretched over two round iron bolts (as you 
see in the figure,) the warp of marline is placed 

5 



50 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

through the parts which the sword has opened and 
jambed by it close to the head, a piece of spun yarn 
is put slack through the same division at the oppo- 
site end and left there, the sword is taken out, passed 
under and over the parts as before, and each end of 
the warp passed and jambed taut, the piece of spun 
yarn which was left at the opposite end is now lifted 
up, and brings the parts as they were first divided 
by the sword, the warp is passed as before, and so 
on till you complete the mat. 



50. A Lashing Cleat. 

Is shaped like the figure in the plate, having a 
score for the seizings which are snaked, and a groove 
cut in the part that fits next to the shroud. 



51. Blocks. 

A SHELL PIN AND SHEAVE. 

Blocks are of different shapes, according to the 
purposes they are used for. A block consists of a 
shell, sheave, and pin, and from the number of these 
sheaves it derives its name, viz : a block with one 
sheave is called single, with two, double, and with 
three treble, and with four sheaves it is called a four- 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 51 

fold block. The shell of a "block is made of ash and 
has one or two scores cut at each end according to 
its size, these scores are for the purpose of admitting 
a strop which goes round the block, and in its centre 
is a hole for a pin, the shell is hollow, and in the 
inside, is placed a solid wheel called a sheave, made 
of lignum vitae, iron or brass, in the centre of this 
sheave is a hole for a pin, on which it turns, the 
lignum vitse sheave is bushed with brass or iron, 
round the circumference of the sheave is a groove, 
that the rope which goes over it may play with ease, 
the sheave is placed in the shell, and the pin is pui 
through both shell and sheave, which constitutes a 
block. 



52. Single Block, 

What is termed a single block, has but one sheave, 
but sometimes two scores on the outside of the shell, 
if it is intended for a double strop, single blocks are 
more used than any other kind on board of a ship. 



53. Double Block. 
Is the same as a single, with one more sheave. 



54. Treble Block. 
Is made in the same way as a double, with one 



52 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

i 

more sheave. Treble blocks are generally used as 
purchase blocks, and stropped in the manner you 
see in the plate. 



55. A Shoulder Block, 

A shoulder block is the same as a single block, 
excepting that it has a kind of a shoulder or projec- 
tion at the bottom part of the shell, to prevent the 
rope which reeves through it from jambing between 
the block and the yard ; those blocks are mostly used 
for bumpkin or lift blocks on a lower yard. 



56. A Fiddle Block. 

Is made like two single blocks one above the 
other, the upper one being the largest so as to allow 
the rope which is rove in the upper sheaves to play 
clear of the rope in the under one, those blocks are 
used in places where there is not room for a double 
one, or in places where a double one would be liable 
to split by not canting fair, or having room to play. 



57. A Shoe Block. . 
Is also made like two single blocks, but the 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT.' 53 

sheave of the upper one lies in a contrary direction 
to that of the lower one. They are generally used 
as buntline blocks to courses, the buntline reeving in 
the upper sheave, and the whip in the lower one. 



58. A Sister Block. 

Has two sheave holes one above the other, a score 
for a seizing between the two sheaves and one at 
each end for the same purpose, they are hollowed 
out on each side of the shell, so as to let the shroud 
lay in it, those blocks are used as top-sail lift blocks, 
and seized in between the two forward shrouds of 
the top-mast rigging, above the futtock stave, the lift 
reeves in the upper sheave hole, and some people 
reeve the top-sail reef tackle in the lower one. 



59. A Monkey Block. 

It is made with a saddle to nail upon the yard for 
the bnntlines to reeve through. Sometimes it has a 
swivel above the saddle to permit the block to turn 
round, when they are used as leecli line blocks. 
These blocks are all got out of fashion now-a-days. 



60. A Dead Eye. 

Is a large round piece of wood with three holes in 

5* 



54 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

it (as you see in the plate,) and a groove cut round it 
for the shroud to lie in. It is used to turn in 
the ends of shrouds and back-stays, and the three 
holes are used to reeve the lanyard through, when 
setting up tne shroud or backstay. 



61. ABulVsEtje. 

Is a kind of a thick wooden thimble with a hole 
in the centre, and a groove cut round the outside for 
the rope or seizing to lay in. 



62. A Heart. 

Is a block of wood with a large hole in the centre, 
at the bottom of which are four or five scores, and 
round the outside is a groove cut to admit a rope 
called a stay ; there are other hearts called collar 
hearts, which are open at the lower ends, opposite to 
which the lanyard is passed. This heart has a double 
score cut round the outside, and two grooves cut on 
each side for the seizings to lay in, which keeps the 
collar in the scores of the heart. 



63. A Belaying Pin Rack. 
Is a piece of wood which has a number of holes 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 55 

through it, in which belaying pins are stuck, on the 
back part are several scores for the shroud to lie in, 
to which it is seized, 



64. A Euphroe. 

Is a long piece of wood having a number of holes 
through which the legs of the crowfoot is rove, a 
score is cut round it to admit of a strap, this is used 
for the ridge of an awning. 



65. A Horn Cleat. 

Those cleats are used for different purposes, some 
are made to seize on to the shrouds, those are called 
lashing cleats, others are made to nail on to different 
parts of the bulwarks, they are of different shape and 
size, and used to belay various ropes to in all parts 
of the ship. 



66. A Bee Cleat. 

Is a piece of wood scored out inside, something 
like the letter B, and rounded off outside, they are 
used for leading a rope through, or for keeping it in 
its place, on the masts, bow-sprit, &c. 



56 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

67. A Strop for a Block. 

Strops are fitted in various ways according to the 
use they are intended for, and according to the size 
of the block. A common strop is fitted in the fol- 
lowing manner, you first cut your rope once and a 
half the round of the block, then get it on a stretch, 
worm parcel and serve as near to the end as possible, 
not to interfere with splicing, then take and splice 
the ends together with a short splice, and finish 
serving, snug up to the splice, stretch it and cut your 
ends off, or you may serve over the ends, and it will 
appear as in the plate. 



68. A Tail Block. 

Is stropped with an eye splice, snug round the 
block, the ends are stuck but once, and the ends 
scraped down, and served over with spun yarn, you 
then clap on a stout whipping about six inches from 
the splice, open the ends out, twist them into foxes 
and pleat them-together as mentioned for gaskets, or 
you may open the strands out and marl them down 
selvagee fashion, tapering it a little towards the end 
of the tail. 

Note. Those used for jiggers have a double tail 
made in the same manner. 








T-.WJjewiyJ/'x 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 57 

69. A Purchase Block. 

Is double strapped, having two scores in the shell 
for that purpose, the strap is wormed, parcelled, and 
served, and sometimes only wormed and parcelled 
and spliced together. Then it is doubled so as to 
bring the splice at the bottom of the block. The 
seizing is clapped on the same as any other, the only 
difference is, that it is crossed both ways, through 
the double parts of the strop. These block strops 
are so large and stiff, that it requires a purchase to 
set them into the score of the block, and show them 
their proper place. 



70. A Top Block. 

Is a single iron bound hook block, it hooks to an 
eyebolt in the cap, and is used for reeving the top 
pendants through, when swaying up top-masts. 

Note. They have generally got a brass sheave. 



71. A Cat Block. 

The cat block is three fold, and iron bound, it has 
got a large iron hook attached to it, for the purpose 
of hooking to the ring of the anchor when catting it. 

Note. It has got two small eye bolts one on the 



58 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

forward side of the shell, to fit a small bridle in, 
which is called the back rope bridle, used in hooking 
the cat. 



72. A Snatch Block. 

Is mostly iron bound with a swivel hook, and 
an iron clasp is fitted on the strap with a hinge, 
which goes over the snatch and toggles on the oppo- 
site side, as you see in the plate. This is used for 
placing the bight of a hawser or large rope in when 
warping the ship, &c. 

Note. There are several different improvements 
made on these blocks. 



73. A Nun Boy. 

These are shaped as you see in the plate, a kind 
of a cask, which is large in the middle and small at 
both ends, and hooped close with iron hoops, and 
stropped with rope well served, the strops of those 
buoys, are cut nine times the length of the buoy, 
which will make the slings and hoops, the slings 
have an eye spliced in each end, the hoops are rove 
through those eyes, and then spliced together, and 
fitted on the buoy as you see in the plate. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 59 

74. To Bend a Buoy Rope. 

It is made fast with a clove hitch round the arms 
of the anchor, close up to the crown, and the end 
part is stopped along the shank, with one or two 
stops. 

Note. Some are fitted with a running eye, and 
when they are used this way, the running eye is rove 
round one arm, and a hitch taken over the other, and 
seized in the cross. In large ships they are fitted 
with pendants and slip buoy ropes, the pendants 
have a large thimble spliced into the end, large 
enough to receive a stout hawser, in case you should 
want to purchase your anchor by the buoy rope. 
The size for the slip buoy rope is one third the size 
of the proper buoy rope. 



75. To Pudding the ring of an Anchor. 

The ring of the anchor is well tarred and parcel- 
led with tarred canvass, then a number of lengths of 
old rope, are cut three times the diameter of the ring, 
these are laid on the ring, and stopped by a tempo- 
rary seizing in the middle, then they are placed fair 
by hand round the rings as you see in the plate. 

When a turn or two of ratting stuff is taken round 
all parts, and a heaver being put through it, it is hove 



60 : KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

well round, which stretches all parts snug round the 
ring. After it is all hove on snug put on your seiz- 
ings, four in number (as you see in the plate.) 



76. To make a Jacob's Ladder, 

Those ladders are used for many different parts 
of a ship of war, they are used for stern ladders, and 
the swinging booms in harbour, rigging ladders, &c. 
They are made in many different ways, some are 
made selvagee fashion, and covered, others are made 
of four stranded rope, and have the rounds put 
through between the strands of the rope. But the 
most common way of making those ladders is to 
take some small rope, about two inch stuff, and make 
two long straps the length you intend to make the 
ladder, and splice them together with a short long 
splice, your straps now being made, get them on a 
stretch both together, and see if they bear a strain 
both alike, if not you must shorten one strap, so as 
to make both alike. Take a piece of chalk and mark 
them off where you intend the rounds to go, about 
fifteen inches apart. (The rounds are pieces of 
round wood, about two inches in diameter, with a 
score in each end for the rope to lay in, made the 
length required,) you then put your rounds in, be- 
tween both parts of the rope, exactly at the chalk 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 61 

mark, having got them all placed, commence and 
seize them in by putting on a snug seizing of mar- 
line on each side of the round, you may parcel, 
leather, or serve in the nips, just as you like. 



77. Can Hooks. 

Are broad flat iron hooks in the eye of which there 
is a thimble inserted. What is called a pair of can 
hooks, is a piece of rope four or five feet long, or 
long enough to span a cask from chime to chime, 
when fitted one of those hooks are spliced into each 
end of this rope, it is then got on a stretch, wormed, 
parcelled and served, some people seize a thimble in 
the bight. 

Note. Some are fitted with chain, with a large 
iron ring in the middle. (See Plate.) 



78. Hogshead Slings. 

Is a piece of rope about five fathoms long and from 
five to six inches in circumference, with a large thim- 
ble spliced in one end, and the other end well whip- 
ped, those are used to sling large casks, being more 
secure than can hooks, to sling a cask with. Those 
slings, you take and reeve it through the thim- 



62 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

ble around one end of the cask, hauling it well 
taut, then take the end part of the slings, round the 
other end of the cask, and take two half hitches 
round the standing part, and it is done. 



79. Barrel Slings. 

Are used the same as a long strap, spliced with a 
short splice, and made long enough to go round a 
iarrel, and reeve one bight through the other, some 
are made long enough to sling two or three barrels 
at a time. 

Note. They are generally made of three inch 
rope. 



80. A JSi?igle Whip. 

A single whip is the smallest and most simple pur- 
chase that is rove. It is made by reeving a rope 
through a single block, as you see in the plate. 



81. A Gun Tackle Purchase. 

Is made by reeveirig a rope through a single block, 
then through another single block, then make the end 



YOUNG SAILORS ASSISTANT. 63 

fast to the one you first rove it through, or splice it 
in to the bottom of the block for neatness. (See 
Plate.) 

82. A Luff Tackle Purchase. 

Consists of a double and single block, the fall is 
rove through one of the sheave holes of the double 
block, then through the single one, through the dou- 
ble one again, and the end makes fast to the single 
one, with a becket bend, to a becket in the bottom of 
the block. (See Plate.) 



83. A Top Burton. 

Is rove in the same manner as a luff tackle pur- 
chase, the only difference is that the upper block of 
the burton is a fiddle block, and the luff a double 
one. (See Plate.) 



84. Whip and Runner. 

If a rope be rove through a single block, it is call- 
ed a whip as before mentioned, and if the fall of this 
whip be spliced round the blocks of another whip, 
it becomes whip on whip, or whip and runner. (See 
Plate.) 



64 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

85. A Runner and Tackle. 

Is the same purchase as a luff tackle applied to a 
runner, which is a large rope rove through a single 
block, with a hook spliced in one end. (See Plate.) 



86. A Two-fold Purchase. 

Consists of two double blocks, the fall is first rove 
through one sheave of the upper block, then through 
one of the lower one, then through the upper one 
again, then through the lower one, and make your 
end fast to the upper block. 



87. A Three-fold Purchase. 

A three fold purchase is rove in this way, the 
blocks having one more sheave, only that you com- 
mence to reeve your fall in the middle sheave first, 
instead of one of the side ones which brings a cross 
in the fall, the reason of it being rove this way is 
that the heaviest strain comes first on the fall part, 
and if it was rove in the side sheave it would have a 
tendency to cant the block in the strop, and split the 
shell of the block and cut the fall, but when it is in 
the middle sheave it draws all down square alike. 



Single Vtliij? 




YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 65 

88. Names of Ropes. 

The names of the different kinds of rope, are de- 
signated as follows, hawser laid and cabled laid rope 
is all the same thing, it is composed of nine strands, 
each strand having an equal number of yarns. These 
nine strands are laid into three, by twisting three 
small ones into one large one, then the three large 
are laid up, or twisted together left handed, which 
makes the nine strands ; this is a hauser laid rope. 
A common or plain rope is composed of three strands 
of an equal number of yarns twisted together. Shroud 
laid rope is made in the same way, only that it con* 
sists of four strands in the room of three, and a smak 
strand which runs through the middle, which is 
termed the heart of the rope, when plain laid rope, 
is laid up left handed, it is called back laid rope ; 
there is four stranded hawser laid rope which is 
used for stays, &c. 



89. Rig Ship, To get sheers on board. 

Take in a sufficiency of ballast to steady the ship, 
shore the decks from the skin up, and particularly 
abreast of the partners. Sling skids up and down 
the sides, and reeve the parbuckles, bring the sheer 
legs alongside, with their small ends aft, and par- 

6* 



66 



KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 



buckle them on board, raise one leg over the capstern, 
and lay the heads on the taffrail. 

Parbuckle the shoes on board, and place them 
under the heels. Square the heels, placing them 
nearly amidships, cross the heads and clap on the 
head lashing of new well stretched rope {figure of 8 
fashion) similar to a throat seizing, and dog down 
the ends. Lash on the main purchase block, so that 
it will hang plumb under the cross. Middle a couple 
of hawsers, and clove hitch them over the sheer 
heads, having two ends leading forward, and two 
leading abaft, through viol blocks toggled to the bow 
and stern ports, and stout luffs clapped on them. 
Lash the small purchase block on the after fork of 
the sheers, so high up, that the falls may play clear 
of each other, and a girtline block above all. Lash 
hawsers to each sheer leg about one third down for 
belly guys, and a cleat, as an additional security 
(belly tackles may be used.) 

Take the lower purchase blocks forward, lash 
them securely and reeve the purchases (with the fall 
part through the middle sheave first) and reeve girt- 
lines. Lash the heels temporally to the shoes and spread 
them, thus tautening the head lashing. Have for- 
ward and after heel tackles, hook them all aft and 
bouse the sheers as much over the stern as possible. 
Hook athwart-ship tackle to the heels, and bouse it 
well taut. To relieve the water ways, pass a bul- 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 67 

wark lashing round the heels to assist the^heel 
tackles. Lead the purchase falls to the capstern, 
take in the slack of the forward guys, have hands 
to attend the after one. 

Note. Skids which are slung up and down the 
sides, are for the purpose of keeping the sheer legs 
clear of the channels, and from thence to the plank 
shear. 

Mats should be placed over the quarter gallerys 
to prevent injuring. The parbuckles are hawsers 
which are middled, the ends of which, are taken 
through two ports which are five or six ports apart, 
from outside in, down over the rail, under the sheer 
legs, up again through snatch blocks in the opposite 
water-way, and luffs clapped on them. The counter 
parbuckles are used to ease the sheer legs down on 
deck, and are rove through the gun deck ports, mats 
should be in wake of the chafe, where the parbuckle 
leads over the rail, or up through the gun deck ports. 

The shoes are made of either stout oak plank or 
beam timbers of pine, and long enough to extend 
over at least three beams, with a saucer in them for 
the heels to rest in, and mortices or bolts in each end 
to lash the heels to, (be particular in shoring the 
decks, under the shoes.) In spreading the heels, care 
should be taken that the extent between them does 
not exceed the breadth of beam, abreast of the mizen 
partners. 



68 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

90. To Raise the Sheers, 

Man the capstern, heave round steadily and bouse 
upon the guy tackles at the same time. When nearly 
perpendicular, avast heaving, getting the strain 
upon the forward and after guys, secure the guy falls, 
hook the forward heel tackles, forward, and haul it 
well taut and lash the heels securely to the shoes, 
come up purchase and bulwark lashings, wet the 
decks in the wake of the shoes, let a hand attend the 
forward heel tackle, to slack as they haul aft, and 
transport the shears to just forward of the mizen 
partners, where make all last. The heels should be 
over a beam if possible, and the heads should be 
plumb with the partners. 



91. To take in the Mizen Mast. 

Tow the mizen mast alongside with the head aft, 
and the garland lashed on to the forward part of the 
mast, the distance from the tennon to just above the 
spar deck partners, lash a pair of girtline blocks on 
the mast head, and reeve the girtlines, bend the sheer 
head girtline to the mast below the bibbs to cant it. 
Overhaul the main purchase down abaft, thrust the 
strop through the eyes of the garland ; toggle it and 
secure the toggle by a back lashing, take the fall to 
the capstern, and heave around, when the heel rises 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 69 

near the rail, hook on a heel tackle to ease it in aboard, 
bouse upon the girtline and get the mast fair for low- 
ering, wipe dry the tennon, have carpenters below 
attending, white lead the step and tennon, lower away 
and step the mast, pass a couple of strops around the 
mast, hook the double block of the pendant tackles 
to them, the single ones to the sides and haul taut> 
wedge the mast temporarily, come up purchases, man 
guy and heel tackles, wet the decks and transport 
the sheers forward for taking in the main mast, ob- 
serving to come up athwartship tackles in the wake of 
all obstructions, take the mast-head girtline forward 
to steady the mast. 

Note. Garlands are made of new stretched rope, 
salvagee fashion, well marled together, then parcelled. 
They are then laid on the forward part of a mast, 
and a stout lashing clapt on over all, and crossed be- 
tween the garland and mast. The reason why the 
mizen mast is got in first, is because the breadth of 
beam is less aft than forward, and consequently the 
head lashing becomes tauter, the heels being spread 
more as they go forward, moreover if the mizen mast 
was taken in last, the bowsprit must be got in first, 
thus the opportunity of securing the sheers to the 
foremast head, would be lost. 



92. To take in Main and Foremast. 
Proceed as in getting in the mizen mast, with the 



70 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

exception of using the small purchase, the garland 
for it being lashed about the diameter of the mast 
above the main one. j 

Note. If in taking in either of the masts, the 
sheers should be found rather short, the difficulty 
may be remedied by manning the forward guy falls 
and making them perpendicular to the deck, if only 
a few inches are required, this may be sufficient. 
Some distance may also be saved by using no gar- 
land, and let the purchase block be lashed to the 
mast. If in lowering, there should still be a difficul- 
ty, chocks might be placed on the kelson until the 
tennon rested on them, then steady the mast by the 
small purchase and sheer head girtlfnes, while the 
main purchase is unlashed, and lashed again higher 
up the mast, sufficient to step it. If the ship has a 
top gallant forecastle, it would be well to step the 
mast forward of the sheer legs, for the brake of the 
forecastle comes abreast of the partners, and in a case 
of that kind it would be well to take in the foremast 
first. 



93. To take in the Bowsprit. 

Transport the sheers as far forward as possible, or 
as the bows will permit, send a hand to the sheer 
head, bend on the girtlines to the small purchase 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 71 

block and light it up and uulash it, and lash it again 
to the forward fork of the sheers, pass a strop around 
the foremast head, and hook a large tackle to it which 
carry aft and set well taut, lash a couple of large 
single blocks to the foremast head, middle a hawser 
and clove hitch it over the sheer head, take the ends 
through the blocks at the mast head well aft, and 
take a turn, hook the after heel tackles forward, and 
take the after guys aft, pass a bulwark lashing 
around each heel, rake the sheers over the bows that 
the main purchase may hang directly over the gam- 
moning scuttle, and make all fast. Overhaul down 
the purchases and toggle them, the bowsprit being 
brought under the bows with the head forward, and 
garlands lashed on, the main one a little more than 
one third from the heel, the smaller one, between the 
cap and bees, having guys leading from the bowsprit 
to the cat heads, and a couple of strops, around the 
heel to hook the bedding tackle to. "Sway away" 
attending it by the guys and get it nearly perpen- 
dicular, when hook bedding tackles, taken from the 
bitts on main deck, up through the partners, wipe 
the tennon dry, whitelead both it and mortice, 
" Lower away" bouse upon the bedding tackles, and 
bring it into its place, come up purchases, guys, un- 
lash garlands and proceed to dismantle the sheers. 
If your ship has a top gallant forecastle, you cannot 
take in your bowsprit with the sheers, on account 
of the brake of the forecastle. 



72 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

Note. In rigging a stage under the bowsprit, 
make use of two small spars, such as top gallant 
studding sail booms, with their heels resting on the 
head rail, and their heads lashed together and slung 
from the Bowsprit end, and boards laid across, one 
from another. The gammoning is of new well 
stretched rope, generally water laid. It would be 
best to get a caulkers stage or a camel under your 
bows if handy, and haul it lengthways under your 
bowsprit, and overhaul a stout tackle and hook on 
to the other end of your stage, and haul well taut. 
Send the men on the stage and set up the gammon- 
ing.* 

94. To Rig the Foremast. 

White lead the mast head in the wake of the 
trussel trees, overhaul down the girtlines bend on the 
trussel trees, and sway them on board, take out the 
after chock, wipe them dry, bend the girtlines to the 
forward part, and stop the girtlines to the after 
part, bend the main girtline to the after part 
also, and sway away having a steadying line for- 
ward to keep the trussel trees from catching under 
the bibbs for if they are heavy, one man aloft cannot 
bear them off from under the bibbs, when above the 
bibbs send a hand aloft to slip the stops one, at a time 

* See gammoning the bowsprit, in miscellaneous articles. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 73 

so as they won't go with a surge. Lower away, bouse 
aft on the after girtlines, and get the trussel trees in 
their places, send aloft the after chock, ship and bolt 
it, tar the mast head in the wake of the rigging, over- 
haul down the girtlines for the bolsters, which are 
tarred and parcelled, sway aloft and stop them, lash 
the girtline blocks to the after part of the trussel 
trees, and have hand girtlines and stirrups for the 
man aloft to stand in at the mast head. Take pen- 
dant tackles forward to steady the mast for rigging, 
overhaul down the girtlines, send aloft the lower 
pendants which have got a long and short leg fitted 
together with spans so as to form a square, the size 
of the mast head, the long leg is placed abaft," so that 
in case the fore stay is shot away, the pendant tackle 
can be hooked in them without being in the way of 
the fore yard in bracing, while the leg being abaft 
the mast affords them good security. The rigging 
is got on board on its respective sides, and its eyes 
opened out and bent in the proper way for going 
over, measure the length of the mast head, below the 
eye seizing of the first pair of starboard shrouds and 
rack them together. Turn a toggle in one end of 
the girtlines, let the other be bent so as to act as a 
down haul, and thrust the toggle between the legs of 
the shroud, stop the girtlines to the eye seizing and 
to the middle of the eye, sway aloft and when the 

stop comes to the block, cut it and bend on the hand 

7 



74 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

girtline, sway higher and cut the other stop, let the 
man at the mast head, bear the eyes over, lower 
away and beat it well down with a commander, ob- 
serving to have the eye seizing come as near the 
centre of the mast head as possible, and get over the 
larboard pair in the same way, turn in the dead-eyes 
with the lay, reeve lanyards and set up both pair of 
shrouds at the same time, taking care to give the 
mast its proper stay, and get over all the shrouds af- 
ter the same manner, and set them up as the two 
forward pairs were, and shift the girtline to the mast 
head. Overhaul down the girtlines forward of the 
mast, bend on to the forestay, sway aloft, bear the legs 
on opposite sides of mast head, and lash them together 
above the eyes of the rigging, turn in the heart with 
the lay of the rope, reeve the laniards on the bight 
and set it up, next get aloft the spring stay in the 
same manner. 

Note. The trusseltrees, might be got over without 
knocking out the after chocks, by running up a der- 
rick abaft the mast, well lashed abaft below the bibbs, 
having chocks placed between it and the mast, suf- 
ficient to admit of the free passage of the after chock 
of the trusseltrees, they are sometimes got on, before 
getting in the mast, but they then bring an additional 
and unnecessary weight upon the mast head, and 
moreover in lowering, catch over the shear head. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT.' 75 

95. To Rig Main and Mizen Mast. 

Proceed in the same manner as directed for fore 
mast, the main mast of a frigate has one more pair 
of shrouds, and the mizen three less than the fore, 
there is only one pair of mizen pendants, which go 
either with a cut splice or with the odd shrouds. 

Note. The stays are lashed above the eyes of the 
rigging at first, so as to give them a close fit down 
about the mast head, and shifted down afterwards. 



96. To Get the Tops over. 

Overhaul the girtlines for the cross trees, white 
lead the scores in the trusseltrees, and ship them, fit 
a pair of span blocks over the mast head, through 
them reeve stout girtlines, overhaul them down abaft 
the rigging alongside and bend them on to the top 
and hitch them to the pigeon holes and bend the 
main girtline to the after rim of the top. " Sway 
away" and ease them in board, now pass the girtlines 
properly, by taking them under the forward part of 
the top up through the girtline holes, around the 
wing of the top and hitch them to their own parts, 
stop them to the pigeon hole and bend the main 
girtlines to the after part of the fore top. "Sway 
away," guying it clear of trusseltrees by the main 
girtlines, and bend a tripping line to the pigeon hole, 



76 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

leading from the bowsprit end ; when high enough 
slip the stops, cant over by the tripping line, lower 
handsomely, ship it fair and toggle it. The main top 
is guyed clear by the mizen girtlines, and is canted 
by a tripping line from the foremast head, the mizen 
top has guys from the taffraii and a tripping line 
from the main mast head. 

Note. In cold weather, it would be best to get the 
top over before rigging the mast, in order to give the 
men more security, and then a derrick rigged on the 
top would be the best way to get the rigging over 
in a heavy ship. 



97. To swifter in the Lower Rigging. 

Lash capstern bars to the rigging three fourths up, 
having parcelling in the wake, and clap a tail block 
around each shroud and the bars, middle the swifter 
and reeve the ends through the middle blocks, on 
each side, then through the others alternately, one 
leading forward, the other aft, and taking them 
through leading blocks in the opposite water ways. 
Measure one third of the breadth of the top, and 
lay it off on the forward shroud on each side from 
the upper part of the trusseltrees down, and then 
seize on the futtock staffs which are of iron, and well 
leathered. Seize on a catharpin leg on each side } 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 77 

and swifter the rigging until the eye of the other end 
meet the opposite side, then seize all on, come up the 
swifter, send down the bars and blocks, (the forward 
and after shrouds are not swiftered in,) ship ftittock 
plates, hook and set up futtock shrouds, ship toprail 
and reeve fancy lines. Above the fore catharpin legs, 
seize on collar and bull's eye for the main topmast 
spring stay to reeve through. The collars for the 
main and mizen topmast stays are above the eyes of 
the fore and main rigging. 



98. To set up Loiver Rigging. 

Unhook the pendant tackles from the strops below 
the bibbs of the mast, and hook them to the runner 
pendants ; clap selvages on the rigging, having old 
canvass in the wake, and hook the single blocks of 
the luffs to them, catspaw or toggle the lanyard to the 
double blocks, overhaul the ^pendant tackles and 
black wall the ends of the luff tackles to the lower 
blocks. Set up the rigging for a full due, observing 
the same precautions as when it was first set up. 
The end of the lanyard is backed around one part of 
the shroud, above the dead eye, jammed well taut, 
with the pendant tackles, then expended round both 
parts and stopped to the shrouds. Now seize on the 
shear poles, cap and square the ends and seizings, 
and come up the lower stays, settle the eyes down 



78 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

over the eyes of the rigging, and set them up in the 
same manner as the shrouds, except reeving the lan- 
yard upon the bight. Spar and rattle the rigging. 
The mast being stayed, they may be permanently 
wedged and coated. 

Note. In setting up the rigging at first, the lan- 
yards are only rove double and well greased ; the 
knot of the lanyard should be inside on the end part 
of the shroud, the dead eyes are at first turned in 
with the shroud. In setting up for a full due, turn 
in the dead eye properly, and reeve the lanyards full. 
The reason for setting the eyes of the stays down over 
the eyes of the rigging, is to clear them of the top- 
mast fid and foot of the topsail. 



99. To get on board the Tojmiast. 

Overhaul the girtline and send up lower cap shores, 
top blocks and fids, together with a large single block, 
which lash over the eyes of the rigging, with a lash- 
ing long enough to allow (or you can lash it half 
mast head high, which is the best way,) the block to 
hang abreast the bibbs of the mast. Through this 
block reeve a large hawser, leading the end down 
forward of the rigging, through the upper sheave 
hole in the heel of the topmast, and clove hitch it 
round the mast head and the other part, rack both 
parts together in several places, man the other end 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 79 

and sway away; when high enough, bend on a rope 
to ease it in board, place the round hole in the lower 
cap over the square hole in the trusseltrees, and point 
the topmast through it. If the topmast is too long to 
point, lower the heel down the scuttle forward the 
mast, and then point it. 

When the head passes through the round hole in 
the cap, pass a lashing from the bolts on one side 
across the mast head to the bolts on the other side, 
take a couple of stout strops through the fid hole, 
hook the pendant tackles on to them, and haul them 
taut. Come up the hawser and unreeve it from the 
sheave hole, get a hawser in the fid hole and have a 
slew rope to it, whitelead the masthead, also the ends 
of the shore and sway up ; when high enough, slew 
fair, ship the cap and shore it, beat it down in its 
place, tack a sheet of lead over the lower mast head 
to protect it from the weather, hook the top blocks, 
round up, reeve and hitch the top pendants and hook 
the top tackles, sway the mast up a few feet above 
the lower cap, come up the pendant tackles, take the 
heaver and strops out of the fid hole of the topmast 



100. To rig the Topmast. 

Pit the span blocks over the mast head, reeve the 
girtlines and overhaul them down abaft for the cross- 
trees, bend on and sway them in board, place them 



80 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

abaft their respective masts, with the forward part 
uppermost ; bend the girtlines to the afterpart, and 
stop them to the forward part, having a guy from the 
deck to clear them of the tops as they go aloft, "sway 
away," rest them on the lower cap abait the topmast, 
passing stout lashings through the quarter bolts in 
the cap and around the afterhorns of the crosstrees, 
cast off the girtlines and take off the span blocks, 
whitelead the masthead, in the wake of the crosstrees, 
lower away the mast, and as it goes down, bear over 
the round hole in the cap, sway again and beat them 
down in their places ; tar the masthead in the wake 
of the rigging, send aloft and stop the bolsters, get 
girtlines on the horns of the crosstrees, sway aloft, 
place the ginn span, and hook the ginns which mouse. 
Get over the burton pendants, hook the top burtons 
and set them taut to a strop passed around one of the 
topmast dead eyes, hitch a small hawser, or a stout 
rope around the hounds of the topmast, which set 
taut forward. Man the top tackles, sway aloft, and 
fid the topmasts. Now rig the mast head by getting 
over the starboard and larboard shrouds alternately, 
breast back stays, standing back stays, fore and aft 
and jib stays, turn in the dead eyes, reeve the lan- 
yards, and set up the rigging the same as the lower 
rigging was, reeve and set up the stays also, in the 
same way, stay the mast by the fore and aft stays ; 
now fit over the lower mast head slins:s for the lower 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 81 

yards, and the fire slings, which are fitted over the 
collars. 

Note. The topmasts are fidded before rigging, 
to avoid the greater strain upon the top tackles. If 
a topmast has only one sheave (like a mizen topmast,) 
it is a good precaution to reeve a hawser through the 
fid hole, haul it taut as the mast goes aloft, unreeving 
it only when the mast is high enough for lidding. 
As the lee breast back stays bear play, they are put 
on before the standing ones, so that the latter ones 
may keep them steady in their places. The topmast 
spring stay may either have their collars dipped 
through those of the standing stays, or they may go 
above the masthead first. The rigging may be set up 
with burtons or a Spanish windlass. There is no 
mizen topmast spring stay. 



101. lo get on board and rig the Jibboom. 

Hoist the boom on board by the hawser which 
was left at the fore mast head, when getting on board 
the fore topmast, run the end out on the bowsprit, 
pointing it through the stay collars and bowsprit cap, 
reeve the heel rope and sway out a foot or two be- 
yond the cap, put on the traveller, reeve the jib stay 
through the hanks, through the traveller, then 
through the inner sheave hole in the boom end, and 
turn in a double block in the inner end; reeve the 



82 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

lanyard through this and a single block bolted to the 
bows, to the traveller seize the jib, downhaul blocks 
and travelling guys, tar the boom end, put a grummet 
over, to which seize the fore top gallant bowline 
blocks. Next the foot ropes, which set up to bowsprit 
cap, next the standing guys, and lastly the jib mar- 
tingale block. Ship the wythe for the flying jibboom, 
get gobb ropes on the dolphin striker, reeve the jib 
martingale, man the heel rope and run out, pass the 
heel lashing, set up the martingale and jib stays. 



102. To Sivifter in Top Mast Rigging. 

Do this similar to the lower rigging, seize the fut- 
tock staffs and catharpin legs, square the dead eyes 
of the rigging, set it up for a full due, seize on the 
sheer poles, cap and square the end seizings, spar 
and rattle it down. 

Note. The futtock staffs are seized on the inside 
of the rigging, to counteract the effect of the top 
gallant rigging, which leads over them. The cathar- 
pins go around the topmast, both ends setting up on 
the same side. 



103. To rig the Sprit sail Yard. 

Sway it on board by the hawser at the fore mas 
head, and get it fore and aft on the larboard side of 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 83 

the forecastle, with the starboard yard arm forward, 
middle the yard, parcel and leather the slings, fit the 
tye, seize on the parrel straps for the flying jib 
sheets, jib and flying jib guys, tar the yard arms, put 
on the grummet and foot ropes, which reeve through 
stirrups nailed on the yard at equal distances, and set 
up to the opposite quarters of the yard, seize on 
blocks for the forward lower boom guys, spritsail 
brace blocks and lifts, reeve the lifts and braces, 
bending on ropes-ends if they are not of sufficient 
length, the starboard one being taken under the bow- 
sprit clear of every thing, clap a block on the fore 
top mast spring stay, reeve a hawser for a yard rope, 
bend it to the slings of the yard, and stop it out to 
the yard arm, hook a tackle to the bowsprit end, and 
to the slings to assist in getting it out, sway out, 
take through the slack of the lifts and braces, slip 
the stops and get the yard in its proper place, steady 
it, hook the tye, pass the parrel lashing, and square 
it, unreeve the hawser, get the block off the spring 
stay and tackle from the bowsprit end, reeve the jib 
guys through their thimbles on the spritsail yard, 
turn in dead eyes or cleats, and set them up to others 
on the bows. 



104. To Get on board Rig and Send aloft Top 
Gallant and Royal Masts. 

Overhaul the girtlines, send aloft topmast cap, 



84 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

and shore together with a small spar to ship the cap 
with, place the round hole of the cap over the square 
of the cross trees, get the girtline on the heel of the 
small spar, point it through the cap and lash them 
together, white lead the t p nnor of the mast and the 
ends of the shore, sway aloft, ship the cap and shore, 
then beat the former down in its place, hook the top 
gallant top blocks, round up and reeve the top gal- 
lant mast rope, the top gallant rigging is fitted on a 
sheet iron cylinder attached to the jack cross trees 
(by an order from the Navy Commissioners) leather- 
ed and painted on the inside, and tarred on the out- 
side, put on the grummets and strops for the main 
royal stay to reeve through, then put on the top gal- 
lant and flying jib stays, starboard and larboard 
shrouds, breast and standing backstays, and secure 
them over the top of the cylinder, overhaul the girt- 
lines, bend them on the rigging, around all parts 
about the length of the mast head below the Jack, 
and a good stout stop through the cylinder, sway 
aloft, cut the stop when high enough and place it 
over the topmast cap, having the hole in the cylinder 
directly over the round hole in the cap, and lash it 
there, cast off and unreeve the girtlines, and reeve 
the top gallant shrouds through the holes in the cor- 
ners of the cross trees, over the topmast futtock 
staffs, down in the top, where turn in the dead eyes 
and reeve the lanyards. The royal rigging is rove 



young sailor's assistant. 85 

through the jacks, over the top gallant futtock staves, 
down in topmast cross tress, where turned in (in some 
ships the royal rigging, comes straight from the 
jacks, down into the top, and set up with a gun 
tackle purchase, the same as a breast back stay) 
thimbles are spliced in and lanyards. Overhaul the 
mast rope down through the trusseltrees of the top- 
mast, and reeve it through the fidhole in the top gal- 
lant mast, hitch it to its own part and stop it along 
the top gallant and royal pole, at different distances ; 
" sway," ease it in board, guy it clear as it goes aloft, 
point it fair and sway the head a foot or two above 
the rigging. White lead the royal mast head, send 
aloft the truck, ship it, reeve the signal halyards and 
attach the conductor ; " sway higher," get the royal 
rigging down in its place, also painting above 
the eyes as before, now light up the rigging and fid 
the top gallant mast, set up the top gallant rigging in 
the top and the royal rigging in the cross trees or 
the top, steadying the mast by the fore and aft stays 
and back stays, tack a sheet of lead over the topmast 
head, to keep the weather out. 



105. To Get on board and Rig the Flying Jib- 
boom. 

To get on board and rig the flying jibboom. Sway 

it on board and get it on the larboard side of the 

8 



86 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

forecastle, clap on a tail block on the jib stay, close 
down to the boom and through it reeve a heel rope 
which take through the sheave hole in the heel of 
the flying jibboom, out again and hitch it to its end, 
rack both parts together, and make a rope fast to the 
heel, to serve as a guy, sway out the boom, assisting 
it with slip ropes, point the end through the withe, 
and hitch the end of the heel rope to the jibboom 
end. Cut the stop and rig the boom out a foot or 
two. Tar the end, put on a grummet and foot ropes, 
guys and martingale, reeve the martingale, flying 
jib and royal stays, man the heel rope, rig out the 
boom, pass the heel and belly lashings, set up the 
martingale, then stay the fore top gallant and royal 
mast, fore and aft, by the stays and back stays, 
reeve the flying jib guys, turn in thimbles and set 
them up. 



106. To Get on board and Rig the Topsail Yards, 

Send aloft and lash a large single block to the 
topmast head, round up and reeve a hawser through 
it, overhaul it down forward, hitch it to the slings of 
the yard, and stop it along the yard arm, get it fore 
and aft in the gangway on chocks, cast off the hawser, 
middle the yard, leather and tar the slings, lash on 
the tye blocks, then the parrel, splice in the parrel 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 87 

lashing, seize the quarter blocks (with a grummet 
around their strops to prevent spreading,) and then 
the clewline blocks, rolling tackle and burton strops, 
tar the yard arms, put on the grummets, jackstays 
(which reeve through the staples, and set up together 
in the slings) head earing strops, foot ropes which 
reeve through stirrups nailed to the yard at equal 
distances, and set up to the opposite quarters, brace 
blocks and eye of single lifts, seize on the flemish 
horses, jewel blocks, see the boom irons on, reeve the 
braces, and coil the upper lift on the upper yard 
arm, the lower one in the slings of the yard, a small 
cleat or saddle, inside of the sheave hole, about two 
feet, on each yard arm, to keep the top gallant sheets 
clear of the yard. 

Note. There are no jewel blocks on the mizen 
topsail yard. 



107. To Cross the Topsail Yards. 

Bend on the hawser and hook the top burtons to 
assist in crossing, (it is preferable to use a whip pur- 
chase with a hawser and jackblock in crossing top- 
sail yards) get strops round the quarter and hook 
the burtons, take a turn with the parrel lashing, 
reeve the lifts, slip the stops and cross the yard, 
steady it with the lifts and braces, reeve the tyes, 



88 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

turn in the fly blocks, reeve and haul taut the topsail 
halyards, pass the parrel lashing properly, and square 
the yard. 



108. To Get on board and Rig Lower Yards. 

Overhaul the hawser from the lower mast head, 
bend on to the slings of the yard, and get them nearly 
up and down, clap selvages on the quarters and hook 
the pendant tackles to them, as it comes on board, 
cut the stops, easing away on the pendant tackle, 
and bousing on the other, until the yard is athwart 
ship, place chocks in the hammock nettings, rest the 
yard on them, slue them fair and lash them, come 
up tackles, cast off the hawsers and place a spar 
under the middle of the yard to prevent its spring- 
ing, measure the yard, tar and leather the slings, fit 
a saddle for the D. thimble, which lash on with a 
piece of well stretched rope, heaving each turn taut 
with a Spanish windlass, and fitting the score of the 
D. thimble, cover all with leather and fit the strops 
for the preventer slings, fit on. truss strops, pendants, 
quarter and clue garnet blocks having a stout grum- 
met around the strops of the quarter blocks, to pre- 
vent spreading, to the middle of this grummet seize 
a slab line block, fit the rolling tackle, burton and 
quarter lift strops, tar the yard arms and (seize the 



youn© sailor's assistant." 89 

leech line blocks to the jack stay with a leg long 
enough to allow the block sufficient play to brace up) 
put on head earing strops, foot ropes, yard tackle 
strops, lift and brace blocks. 

Note. A piece of well stretched rope is thought 
to be preferable to a strand in lashing on a D thim- 
ble, as it cannot absorb the water so freely. 

The cross jack yards has no jack stay, head ear- 
ings or yard tackle strops, and the brace blocks in- 
stead of going over the yard arm are put on some 
distance inside of the sheave hole for the mizen top- 
sail sheets. 



109. To Get aloft the Lower Yards. 

Send aloft and lash the jeer blocks, reeve the pen- 
dants and falls, hitch the pendants around the quar- 
ters of the yard, splice in the lanyard of the D thim- 
ble, and take the yard tackles forward, to keep the 
yard clear of the mast, reeve the lifts and braces, 
man the lifts and jeer falls ; "sway away," and when 
the yard comes abreast of the futtock staves, pass the 
lashing of the D thimble, parcel it well, and leather 
over all, frap all parts together, and cover all with 
canvass, reeve the truss pendants, turn in the blocks, 
reeve the falls, haul taut the trusses, square the yard 

by the lifts and braces. 

8* 



90 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

Note. The cross jack yard may be got aloft by 
the pendant tackles, hooked to the lower cap, or 
through a strop passed through the pigeon hole of 
the top, the mast head slings have a back lashing 
passed abaft the mast head, half way botween the 
cap and top. 



110. To Get on board the Spanker Boom and 

Gaff. 

The spanker boom, trysail mast and gaff, may be 
got on board by the yard and stay tackle. Put the 
hoops on the trysail mast, and stop them ; sway 
away by a pendant tackle, point the mast head through 
the after chock of the trusseltrees, stop and lash its 
head to the mizen mast head, leather the boom in 
the wake of the crutch, seize on sheet blocks and 
reeve the sheets, tar the boom, put over the foot 
ropes, which set up, just out outside of the taffrail and 
boom guys, which go with a gun tackle purchase to 
the quarters, hook the topping lift to an iron span 
around the boom, lead them up through cheek blocks 
bolted to the mizen bibbs, and set up in the channel 
with a luff purchase, ship and key the boom, seize 
on a cleat for the outhaulers, to belay to, then leather 
the jaws of the gaff, fit throat and peak halyard 
blocks, brail blocks, vangs and blocks, reeve throat 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 91 

and peak halyards, hoist up the gaff, and haul taut 
the vangs. 

Note. The spencer gaff may be rigged nearly the 
same way. 



111. To Get on board and Rig Top Gallant 

Yards. 

They are got on board, like the topsail yards. 
Leather the slings, seize on D. thimble, parrel and 
quarter blocks, rolling tackle strops, tar the yard arms, 
put on the jack stays, head earing strops, foot ropes, 
braces and lifts ; nail on the stirrups, seize on the 
foot ropes and set up the jack stays, fit the yard 
ropes, having lizards and tripping lines, with a grum- 
met to go round the yard rope ; when going aloft, 
bend on the yard rope, and stop the top gallant yard 
in the rigging, the main on the starboard side, fore 
and mizen on the larboard side. 

Note. When the lower stays are fitted with mou* 
sings, it is customary to have them on the side oppo- 
site to that which the top gallant yards are stopped 
up and down. The royal yards have a D. Thimble, 
clue line blocks, head earing strops and foot ropes ; 
the lifts and braces are single, and the eyes which 
go over the yard arm are stopped together. The yard 
ropes are fitted the same as those of the top gallant 



92 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

yard, they are stopped in the rigging the reverse of 
the top gallant yard. 



[ 112. To rig a Lower Studding Sail Boom. 

Hoist up, ship and key the boom, put on single 
blocks for forward and after guys, reeve, hook, and 
haul taut the topping lifts. 



113. To rig a Topmast Studding Sail Boom. 

Send the boom aloft by two jiggers, one on the 
lower lift, and the other one under the forward part 
of the top, point the boom and clamp the inner iron, 
put on the tack and lower studding sail halyajd 
blocks, boom lift and brace ; over the heel, straps for 
boom jiggers and heel lashing. 



114. To Rig Top Gallant Studding Sail Boom. 

Sway it aloft like a top mast steering sail boom, 
fit a tack block and strap for heel lashing. 



115. Note. — Rig the Boat and Fish Davits, 
Unreeve all the girtlines, yard ropes, mast 



Young sailor's assistant. 93 

ropes and top pendants, unlash and send down all 
blocks which are used in rigging spars, unreeve 
your falls and heel ropes, haul taut top burtons, 
pendant tackles, stay the mast, seize all blocks in 
their proper places and reeve the running rigging, 



116. To Cut the Lower Rigging. 

Take the length from the larboard side of the 
main mast head, to the forward dead eye in the star- 
board channels from the section drafts, which set off 
on the floor of the rigging loft, and stick in a marline 
spike at each extremity, the shrouding stuff being 
stretched, stop one end to one of the marline spikes, 
take the bight around the other and back again, and 
this is the first pair of shrouds, pass it around again 
(outside at each end) for the second pair, and con- 
tinue on in this manner until shrouds enough are 
warped off. Take one and a half or one and a quar- 
ter circumference of the mast head, as may be judg- 
ed most proper, and chalk it off upon the bights of 
the eyes also, chalk off the distance for the service 
to go on, which is generally about the middle third, 
mark the shrouds, and cut them at the peg in an an- 
gular direction, so that the after legs will be a little 
longer than the forward ones, put them on a stretch, 
and worm them in wake of the service ; begin at each 



94 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

end where the service is to leave off, and parcel upwards, 
to the middle of the eye, where commence serving 
and go downwards on each leg, the eye seizings are 
round ones, and when clapt on, the whole eye is 
neatly covered with parcelling, a half sister block is 
sometimes put between the two forward shrouds for 
the lower boom topping lift to lead through in seiz- 
ing on sister blocks, the top of the block should be 
once of the circumference of the rope below the eye 
seizing, dead eyes are always turned in with the lay 
of the rope, having throat quarter and end seizings ; to 
distinguish the fore from the main shrouds, mark the 
fore with marline, the main with house line, should 
these marks get off, the fore and main can easily be 
distinguished by lengths, the starboard shrouds are 
all shorter than the corresponding larboard ones, by 
the diameter of the rope, therefore, take the shortest 
pair for the first pair of starboard shrouds, and the 
next pair for the first pair of larboard shrouds. 



117. The Topmast and Top Gallant Rigging, 

Is cut in the same manner. In fitting the top mast 
rigging, always seize on a sister block between the 
two forward shrouds for the topsail lift and reef 
tackles, the swifters are generally served the whole 
length ; the eyes of the top gallant rigging are made 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 95 

to fit exactly around the cylinder, if there is an odd 
topmast or top gallant shroud on each side, they are 
either fitted with a horse shoe eye, or go together 
with a cut splice. 



118. The Breast and Standing Back Stays. 

These may be cut by the same rule, the eyes of 
the breast back stays are fitted in different ways, 
they are sometimes spanned together making a square 
the size of the mast head, sometimes they have an 
eye like the shrouds, made to fit close, and others, 
a small thimble is seized in the bight, and they are 
lashed around the mast head ; the eyes of the stand- 
ing back stays are like those of the shrouds. 



119. The Catharpin Legs and Futtock Shrouds. 

Take one third the breadth of the top, and lay on 
that distance from the eye seizing, down upon the 
shrouds, each side, draw a line across which will re- 
present the catharpins, and measured upon the scale 
will give their length, splice in eyes at each end, 
worm, parcel, serve and leather them, the distance 
from the extremity of the top and this line upon the 
shroud, will give the length of the futtock shrouds, 



96 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

which must have a hook and thimble in their upper 
ends, and a thimble in their lower ends. 



120. To Cut the Fore and Aft Stay. 

Measure from the after parts of the mast head, 
where the stays set up, and to the distance add the 
length of the mast head for collars. 

Collars for stays are the length of their respective 
mast head. The mousings are to be raised "one and a 
half the size of the stays, and at a distance equal to 
twice the length of the mast head from the mousing. 
A Flemish eye is worked on the end, and the stay 
rove through it, or they may be fitted with lashing 
eyes, in which case each leg is the length of the 
mast head, the service is continued the length of the 
eye below the mousing, and then the collars are 
leathered, the hearts are turned in with the lay of 
the rope. Stays are wormed, parcelled, served, and 
leathered in the wake of all nipps, such as the bees, 
bullock blocks, and sheave holes. 



121. To Cut the Runner Pendants. 

The forward pair should be twice the length of 
the mast head ; the after pair twice and a half; the 
thimbles are spliced in the ends, they are wormed 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 97 

or spanned together, so as to form a span to fit the 
mast head. 



122. Bob Stays. 

The bob stays are cut twice the length from the 
collars, on the bowsprit, to their respective holes in 
the cutwater. They are wormed, parcelled and served, 
the whole length, and leathered in the nipp, after 
which they are rove through the holes, spliced to- 
gether, and the dead eyes are turned in, in the wake 
of the splice. 



123. To Cut Bowsprit Shrouds. 

The length from the bowsprit to the eyebolts, in 
the bows, a dead eye or heart is spliced into one end 
and a hook and thimble in the other. 



124. The Jib and Flying Jib Guys. 

From the boom end to the bows, making a small 
allowance for reeving, through the straps on the 
spritsail yard, they are generally fitted with a cuc- 
kold's neck, over the boom end, and set up with dead 
eyes to the bows. The cuckold's neck is served or 



98 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

covered with canvass. The guys in the wake of the 
spritsail yard are leathered. The martingales must be 
cut, and fitted to the manner in which they are rove. 



125. The Running Rigging, 

The running rigging is cut as it is rove, making 
due allowance for the hands to clap on. 



126. The Main and Main Spring Stays. 

Are lead down ; the former on the starboard side, 
the latter on the larboard side of the fore mast, and 
set up to hearts bolted to the breast hooks, or around 
the bitts on their own ports. 



" 127. The Mizen Stay. 

Is fitted with a shark's mouth, and lashed to eye 
bolts, abreast the main partners. 



1 28. The Fore Topmast and Spring Stays. 

Lead through bees, the former on the starboard 
side, the latter through the hanks, and then through 
the larboard bees, through strops around the bowsprit, 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 99 

and either have dead eyes turned in their ends, and 
set up to the bows, or else on their own parts. 



129. The Jib Stay. 

Is frequently lashed to the collar of the fore top- 
mast spring stay, rove through hanks, the traveller, 
and inner sheave hole in the jib boom, and leads in 
by the jib boom, and has a double block turned in its 
end and sets up to a single one. 



130. The Main Topmast Stay. 

Reeves through a bullock block stropped around 
the foremast head, above the rigging, down abaft the 
foremast, and sets up to an eye bolt in the deck. The 
spring stay leads up through a block stropped around 
the foremast, above the cat harpins, and sets up in 
the foretop. The mizen topmast stay leads through a 
block, stropped around the main mast above the rig- 
ging, and sets up on its own part. 



131. The Fore Top Gallant Stay. 

Reeves through the outer sheave hole in the jib 
boom, and through a bull's eye, hooked to the bows 
and sets up on its own parts. 



100 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

132. The Flying Jib Stay. 

Reeves through the inner sheave hole in the flying 
jib boom, and sets up like the fore top-gallant stay. 



133. The Main Top-gallant Stay. 

Reeves through the middle sheave in the after 
chock of the fore topmast crosstrees, or through a 
block stropped around the fore topmast head, and 
sets up in the fore top. 



134. The Mizen Top-gallant Stay. 

Reeves through a bull's eye in the after part of the 
main cap, and sets up in the main top. 



135. The Fore Royal Stay. 

Reeves through the outer sheave hole in flying jib 
boom ends, and sets up at the bow. 



136. The Main Royal Stay. 

Reeves through a thimble, stopped around the fore 
top-gallant mast head, and sets up in the crosstrees. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 101 

137. The Bob Stays. 

After being rove, are set up to their respective collars 
on the bowsprit. 



138. The Bowsprit Shrouds. 

After being hooked to their eye bolts in the booms, 
are set up to their collars on the bowsprits. 

The gobblines are either clove hitched, or may go 
with a cuckold's neck around the end of the dolphin 
striker, and sets up to the bows one on each side. 



139. Jib Martingale Stays. 

The jib martingale stay has a knot cast in the end 
and reeves through the upper sheave hole, in the 
dolphin striker, leaving the knot on the after side ; 
then through the block at the jib boom end, down 
again through the sheave hole in the dolphin striker, 
up through the fair leader, on the bowsprit, and sets 
up to the bows. 



140. Flying Jib Martingale Stays. 

Goes over the boom and through the lower sheave 

in the dolphin striker, up through the fair leader, and 

sets up to the bows. 

9* 



102 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

141. Breast Back Stays. 

Have double blocks turned in their ends and set 
up through thrimble ones in the channels. 



142. All Standing Back Stays. 

Have a dead eye turned in their ends, and set up 
to others in the channels, with the exception of the 
fore, main, and mizen top-gallant back stays, which 
set up on their own parts. 



143. To Reeve Running Rigging. 

The lower lifts have single blocks on the yard 
arms, and a double one fitted to the lower cap. The 
standing part is made fast to the yard arm, then reeves 
down through the after sheave in the double block 
at the cap, out again through the single block on the 
yard arm, and then down through the forward sheave 
in the double block at cap. 



144. The Quarter Lifts. 

Are hooked to strops around the lower cap, and 
to the quarter lift strops on the yard. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 103 

145. The Topsail Lifts. 

Go with a single eye over the yard arms, up 
through the lower sheave hole in the sister block in 
the topmast rigging, and lead in the tops. 



146. The Reef Tackles. 

Reeve through the upper sheave hole in the sister 
block at the mast head, through the outer sheave 
hole in the yard arm, down through the block in the 
leach of the topsail, and the end is clinched around 
the yard arm. 

Note. The more approved plan, is to have pen- 
dants and whipps. 



147. The Top-gallant Lifts. 

Are single, and are seized together, or marled with 
the braces ; they lead through a half sister block, 
in the top-gallant rigging down into the tops. 



148. The Royal Lifts. 

Are fitted, and go in the same manner, as the top- 
gallant lifts. 



104 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

149. Sprits ail Lifts. 

Are generally single, with an eye over the yard 
arm, with the end rove through a single block on the 
bowsprit cap ; and then leads in board. 



150. Lower Boom Topping Lifts. 

Are fitted to reeve through a block, between the 
forward pair of shrouds, and hook with sister hooks 
to an eye bolt in a band on the lower studdingsail 
boom. 



151. Top Mast Studding Sail Boom Topping 

Lifts. 

Are fitted, to go with an eye over the boom end, 
through a block in the mast head pendant, and then 
down on deck. 



152. Spanker Boom Topping Lifts. 

Hook to a strop on the boom, lead through cheek 
blocks, bolted to the mizen mast, and set up in the 
mizen channels, with a luff purchase. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 105 

153. Fore Braces. 

The standing parts, are clove hitched below the 
mousing of the main stay, the other part rove through 
the block on the yard, back again through the blocks 
bolted to the main bibbs, then down by the main 
mast to the deck. 



154. Fore Topsail Braces. 

The standing part, is made fast to the main top- 
mast head, stopped down to the collar of the stay as 
far as the splice, through the block on the yard arm, 
then through a single block lashed to the main stay, 
a little below the mousing, through leading blocks 
under the top, and down by the main mast to the 
deck. 



155. Fore Top Gallant Braces. 

The standing part is made fast to the main top 
mast head, rove through a block on the yard arm, 
back through a block on the main top mast stays, 
then through leading blocks under the cross trees 
and down by the main mast. 



106 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

156. Fore Royal Braces. 

A single eye goes over the yard arm, and then 
reeves through a block lashed under the eyes of the 
main top gallant rigging, and down on deck by the 
main mast. 



157. The Main Braces. 

The standing part goes over the bumpkin end by 
the quarter galleries, through the blocks on the yard, 
back again through a block on the bumpkin, and in 
on deck. 



158. The Main Topsail Braces. 

The standing part is made fast to the mizen top- 
mast head, then stopped down the mizen topmast 
stay, below the splice, rove through the block on the 
yard arm, down through the block fitted with a pen- 
dant around the mizen mast, and down on deck. 



159. The Main Top Gallant Braces. 

The standing part makes fast to the mizen top 
gallant mast head, then leads through the block on 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 107 

g 

the yard arm, through a block on the mizen top 
mast stay below the splice. 



160. Main Royal Braces. 

A single eye goes over the yard arm, and leads 
through a block seized on the top gallant stay and 
down on deck. 



161. Cross Jack Braces. 

Standing part is made fast to the after main swif- 
ter a little above the futtock staffs, it then leads 
through a block on the yard, back through a block 
on the after swifter, seized in a line with the futtock 
staffs and down on deck. 



162. Mizen Top sail Braces. 

Standing part is made fast to the main cap, leads 
through a block on the yard, back through a block 
at the cap, down on deck. 



163. Mizen Top Gallant Braces. 
Are fitted with an eye over the yard arm, reeves 



108 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

through a sheave hole in the after chock of the main 
topmast crosstrees, down on deck. 



164. Mizen Royal Braces. 

Are fitted with a single eye, and go in the same 
manner as the mizen top gallant braces. 



165. Sprit Sail Braces. 

Standing part makes fast to the collar of the 
fore stay, through the block on the yard, through the 
block under the fore top, and down on deck by the 
foremast. 



166. Topmast Studding Sail Boom Braces. 

A long pendant goes over the boom end with an 
eye splice, and a single block spliced in the end. 
The standing part of the brace makes fast to the 
main rigging, the other end reeves through the block 
in the pendants, then through a block in the main 
rigging, down on deck. 



167. Bowlines. 
The fore bowline reeves through a block two 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 109 

thirds out on the bowsprit, and then in on deck, to 
the fore casile. 



168. Fore Top Bowline 

Reeves through a block on the bowsprit, in on the 
forexastle. 



169. Fore Top Gallant Bowline 

Reeves through a block at the jib boom end, 
through the fair leader on the bowsprit and in board 
on the fore castle. 



170. Fore Royal Bowline 

Reeves through a block 'at the flying jib boom 
end, in through the fair leader, the same as the fore 
top gallant bowline. 



171. Main Bowline. 

The main bowline is a runner and tackle, the 
standing part made fast to the running part and be- 
layed to the fore fife rail. 

10 



110 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

172. Main Top Bowline 

Reeves through a block, bolted to the after part of 
the fore trusseltrees, down on deck to the side. 



173. Main Top Gallant Bowline 

Reeves through the sheave hole in the after chock 
in the fore topmast cross trees, then leads on deck. 



174. Main Royal Bowlines 
Lead similar to the fore royal bowlines. 



175. The Mizen Top Bowlines 

Reeve through a block seized to the after main 
swifter. 



176. The Mizen Top Gallant Bowlines 

Reeve through a sheave in the chock of the main 
top mast crosstrees, down on deck. 



177. The Mizen Royal Bowlines. 
Lead similar to the fore and main 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. Ill 

178. Fore Topmast Stay Sail Halyards* 

The standing part is seized or hitched to the fore 
topmast spring stay, then rove through a block in 
the head of the sail, up through a leading block, un- 
der the eyes of the topmast rigging, then down on 
the larboard side to the deck abaft the-foremast. 



179. Jib Halyards 

Are bent and rove like the stay sail, leading down 
on the starboard side of the deck. 



180. Flying Jib Halyards 

Are a single rope hitched to the head of the flying 
jib, leading through a single block at the fore top 
gallant mast head, down on deck the larboard side. 



181. Fore Top Sail Halyards. 

The end of the tye clinches around the topmast 
head, reeves through a block on the yard, up through 
the ginns of the mast head, and has a thimble spliced 
in the end, a double block is attached to this thimble 
with sister hooks, and the halyards are rove like a 



112 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

luff purchase, connecting the double block with a 
single one in the channels, there being two tyes and 
two halyards, one on each side. 



182. The Main Top Sail Halyards 
Are fitted the same as the fore ones in all respects. 



183. The Mizen Topsail Halyards 

Have only one tye, which reeves through the 
sheave hole in the mizen topmast head. 



184. Fore Top Gallant Halyards. 

The tye hooks to a thimble and reeves through a 
sheave hole at the mast head. The halyards are a luff 
purchase, the double block hooked to the tye, and 
the single one to a strop around the lower trussel- 
trees, the fall leading on deck. 



185. Main Top Gallant Halyards 
Lead the same as the fore ones. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 113 

186. Mlzen Top Gallant Halyards 

Have no purchase, but are long, and lead single on 
deck. 



187. Fore, Main, and Mizen Royal Halyards 

Are all single, and lead similar to the mizen top 
gallant halyards. 



188. Main Topmast Stay sail Halyards. 

The standing part is hitched to the collar of the 
main topmast spring stay, reeving through a block 
in the head of the sail, up through a leading block 
at the main topmast head and down on deck. 



189. Mizen Stay Sail Halyards 

Are hitched to the collar of the stay sail stay, reev- 
ing through a block in the head of the sail, then 
through a leader, and lead down on deck. 



190. Gaff Throat Halyards 

Are a luff purchase. The single block hooks to an 

10* 



114 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

eye bolt in the jaws of the gaff, and the double one 
to another in the mizen trussletrees. 



191. Peak Halyards. 

The standing part goes on the gaff end, leads 
through a double block at the cap, and out through 
a single block on the gaff, up again through the 
double block at the cap, and down on deck. 



192. Lower Studding Sail Halyards. 

The outer ones are taken through the lubber's 
hole, rove through a block in the end of a mast head 
pendant, out through a block at the end of the stud- 
ding sail boom, and bent to the yard ; the inner 
halyards lead through two single blocks on the fore 
yard, the one without the other, and is bent to the 
inner head cringle. 



193. Top Mast Studding Sail Halyards 

Are rove through span blocks, at the top mast 
head, then through the jewel blocks, at the yard arm, 
and bent to the yard. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 115 

194. Fore Top Mast Stay Sail Downhaul 

Is hitched to the head of the sail, rove through the 
hanks, then through a block seized to the tack of 
the sail, and leads in on deck, through the fair leader, 
to the fore castle. 



195. Jib Downhaul 

Is hitched to the head of the sail, then rove through 
the hanks, the same as the stay sail downhaul, then 
rove through a block seized to the traveller and lead 
in on deck, through the fair leader, to the starboard 
side of the fore castle. 



196. Flying Jib Downhaul 

Is hitched to the head of the sail, rove through 
the hanks, then through a block at the end of the 
boom, and in on deck the same as the others. 



197. Top Sail Downhauls 

Are either luff or gun tackle purchases, hooked 
to strops around the slings of the yard, and another 
through the pigeon hole of the top. 



116 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

198. Main Topmast Stay Sail Downhaul 

Is clinched to the head of the sail, then rove 
through the hanks, through a block at the tack of 
the sail, and down by the foremast. 



199. Mizen Stay Sail Downhaul 

Is clinched to the head of the sail, rove through 
the hanks, down the mizen stay. 



200. Topmast Studding Sail Downhaul 

Bends to the yard arm, reeves through a bull's 
eye in the leach of the sail, then through a single 
block at the tack, and in on deck. 



201. Top Gallant Studding Sail Downhaul 
Bends to the yard arm and leads to the top. 



202. Royal Studding Sail Downhaul 

Is bent to the yard, and leads in the same man- 
ner as the top gallant studding sail downhaul. 



young sailor's assistant: 117 

203. Main Tack 

Is hooked to an eye bolt in the gangway, then 
rove through a block in the clew of the sail, then 
leads through a block in the gangway and belayed 
to a cavel. 

The fore tack is hooked to the fore bumpkin, then 
Irove through a block in the clew of the sail, out 
Ithrough another block at the bumpkin end, and in 
on the fore castle. 



204. The Jib and Fore Topmast Stay Sail Tacks 
Are simple lashings. 



205. The Spanker Tack 
Is a small gun tackle purchase. 



206. Topmast, Top Gallant, and Royal Studding 
Sail Tacks. 

The topmast studding sail tack is bent to the 
tack of the sail, rove through a block on the end of 
the boom. The fore, leading aft to a block, in the 
forward part of the main rigging. 

The main leads through a sheave hole in the 
bulwark abaft. 



118 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

The top gallant and royal studding sail tacks, are 
bent in the same manner and lead in their, respective 
tops. 



207. Main Topmast Stay Sail Tack 

Reeves through a block, in the weather fore rig- 
ging. 



208. Lower Studding Sail Outhaul 

Is bent to the tack of the sail, rove through a 
block at the boom end, and leads in through a lead- 
ing block in the gangway.. 



209. Spanker Outhaul. 

The end is clinched around the boom end, rove 
through a block in the clew of the sail, then out 
through a sheave hole in the boom end, and belayed 
to a cleat lashed to the boom. 



210. Fore and Main Sheets 
Are hooked with sister hooks to bolts in the ship's 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 119 

side, then rove through the block in the clew of the 
sail, and lead in through a sheave hole in the side. 



211. Top Sail Sheets 

Are clinched around the lower yard arms, then 
rove through the blocks in the clew of the sail, 
through the sheave holes in the yard arms, in again 
through the quarter blocks, and lead down on deck 
to the topsail sheet bitts, where they are belayed. 



212. Top Gallant and Royal Sheets 

Are clinched to the clews of the sail, rove through 
the sheave hole in the yard arms, in through the 
quarter blocks, and lead on deck. 

Note. The royal sheet leads only as far as the top. 



213. Fore Topmast Stay Sail and Jib Sheets. 

Pendants lashed to the clew of the sails, with a 
block in the end, through which the sheets are rove, 
the standing part is hooked to an eyebolt in the 
bows, and the running part is led in on the fore 
castle. 



120 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

214. Flying Jib Sheets 

Are lashed to the clew of the sail, rove through a 
block on the spritsail yard, and lead in on the fore 
castle. 



215. Mizen Stay Sail Sheet 

Is a runner, leading through a snatch block and 
thimble. 

The main topmast stay sail sheet makes fast to 
the clew of the sail, and leads down in the gangway. 



216. Spanker Sheets 

Are luff purchases, reeving through a double 
block on the boom and a single one bolted to the 
taffrail. 



217. Lower Studding Sail Sheets. 

The short sheet reeves through a block, hooked in 
the side or in the channels ; the long one leads in on 
the fore castle. 



218. Topmast Studding Sail Sheets. 
The short one leads through a thimble on the 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 121 

lower yard, into the top, the long one leads down on 
the fore castle. 



219. The Top-gallant and Royal Studding /Sail 

/Sheets 

All lead in the top. 



220. Clue Garnets. 

The fore and main clue garnets are hitched to the 
yards, then rove through a block lashed in the clews 
of the sail, up through a block on the quarter of the 
yard, down to the fife rail. 



221. Topsail and Top-gallant Clewlines 

Are rove the same as clew garnets. 
Note. Some ships have them to go with whips 
and pendants. 



222. Royal Clewlines 

Are hitched to the clews of the sails rove through 

the quarter blocks on the yard, and lead either in the 

tops, or on deck. « 

11 



122 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

1 223. Lower Studding Sail Clewlines 

Are hitched to the outer clew of the sail, rove 
through a block at the inner yard arm, then through 
a block on the fore yard, and are led down on deck. 



224. Fore and Main Buntlines 

Are double. The upper legs reeve through the upper 
sheave in the shoe block, then through a double block 
under the tops, and both parts are toggled or clenched 
to the foot of the courses, forward of the sail. 

The lower legs are rove through the lower sheave 
of the shoe block, and forms a whip ; the standing 
part seizing to the main stays by the fore mast, and 
the other part is manned in hauling up the sail. 

Note. The fore buntlines lead down by the after 
fore swifter, and belay to the side, or life rail. 



225. Top Sail Buntlines 

Are clinched in the foot of the sail, then reeve 
through a thimble, lashed to the yard, up through 
leading blocks under the fore part of the topmast 
crosstrees, and down on deck. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 123 

226. Top-gallant Buntlines 

Are hitched to a span in the foot of the sail ; leads 
through a block at the top-gallant mast head, and 
down on deck. 

Note, Slablines are hitched to the middle of a 
span at the foot of the sail, leads up abaft, and reeves 
through a block lashed to a grummet, around the 
strops of the quarter blocks of the lower yards, and 
down on deck. 



227. Leach Lines 

The forward leach lines are rove through the up- 
per sheave hole of a shoe block, both parts are then 
rove through a double block, hooked with a pendant 
to the lower cap, then through two single blocks, 
seized to the jack stays on the yards, and are clinched 
to the leaches of the courses before the sail. 



228. The Lower Legs 

Are rove through the other sheave hole, in the shoe 
block, the standing part is made fast to the fife rail, 
the other end being used to haul up the sails. 



229. - After Leach Lines. 
Are rove through blocks on the underneath part 



124 , KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

of the yard, and clinchedrto the courses abaft the sail, 
to the same places, as the forward ones. 



230. Spanker Brails. 

The middle brail, and peak brail, are seized to the 
after leach of the sail, leading up through cheeks 
bolted on each side of the gaff, through leading blocks, 
bolted on each side of the jaws of the gaff, and down 
on deck. 

The foot brails are rove through a block lashed to 
a hoop one third or thereabouts up the trysail mast. 



231. Try Sail Brails 

Are rove like the spanker brails. The mizen stay- 
sail brails are clinched in the after clew of the sail, 
led up through a block seized to the upper part of the 
luff of the sail and lead on deck. 



232. Main Topmast Stay\Sail Brails 

Are seized to the leach of the sail, lead up through 
the hanks to a block seized to the upper hank, and 
act as a downhaul also. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 125 

233. Jib Brails 

Are seized to the clew of the sail, and lead through 
a block seized to a hank, down through another at 
the end of the jib boom, and in on the fore castle. 



234. Jib and Flying Jib Guys 

Are fitted over their respective boom ends, and lead 
in through thimbles stopped on the spritsail yard> 
having dead eyes, spliced, or turned in their ends, 
setting up to others at the bows. 



235. Lower Boom Guys 

The standing part of the forward guy is made fast 
to the spritsail yard, then rove through a block on a 
boom, back again through a block on the bowsprit 
cap, and lead in on the fore castle. 



236. The After Guys 

Are hooked to an eyebolt in the side abaft the fore 

channels, then rove through a block on the boom 

and leads in through a sheave hole in the side above 

where the standing part is hooked. 

11* 



126 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

237. The Spanker Boom Guys 

Have a pendant which is fitted to go over the 
boom end, and sets up on the quarter with a gun 
tackle purchase. 



238. Storm Stay Sail Gear. 

The storm stay sail stays are lashed around their 
respective mast heads, or toggled in the crutch of the 
lower stays, and set up near the proper stays, the hal- 
yards and downhauls being rove in the same manner 
as the other stay sails, using luff purchases for the 
sheets. 



239. The Middle, Lower, and Upper Top-gallant 
Stay Sails, and Jack Stays, 

May be fitted in one. In this case a double block is 
turned in, and lashed to the after part of the fore top- 
mast crosstrees, or mast head, the lower part is set 
up in the fore top, the upper part, at the fore top-gal- 
lant mast head. 

The middle stay sail stays, are rove through a sin- 
gle block, stropped to the topmast, down on the cap. 

The lower and upper top-gallant stay sail stays, 
are rove through blocks, fitted to traverse the jack 
stay,_ with lock thimbles, the former being rove 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 127 

through the other sheave of the double blocm at the 
topmnst crosstrees, the latter through a block at the 
fore top-gallant mast head, and both are led on deck. 



240. The Downhaul Blocks 

Are single and are seized to the strops of the tricing 
line blocks. The halyards are whips, hitched to the 
collars of the stays, rove through blocks in the head 
of the sail, through leading blocks at the mast head, 
down on the quarter deck. 

The downhauls are hitched to the head of the 
sail, rove through the hanks, and through the down- 
haul blocks, and lead in on deck. The tacks are 
single, and lead in the fore top, the sheets are also 
single leading in the gangways. 



241. To Stow the Hold and Spirit Room. Ballast 

See that the limbers are clear from chips or dirt, 
and place the limber boards. Clean, sweep, and 
whitewash the hold, place hoop poles athwart ships 
for dunnage, as near to each other as possible, so that 
each pig of iron will rest at least on two of them. 
Have the rust well beaten off the ballast, and white- 
wash each pig. Each pig should be weighed, after 
which strike it, stow it according to the mould of the 



128 



KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 



vessel and to her best sailing trim, always observing 
to have the same number of pigs on each side of the 
kelson. 

The ballast in the spirit room should be a contin- 
uation of that in the hold. Make a draft of the bal- 
last, indicating the exact number of pigs, the exact 
position which they occupy, and their exact weight. 



242. To Stow the Casks. 

Strike down their beds, place and whitewash them; 
then strike below the water casks, commencing at the 
after bulkhead in the hold ; the kelson tier — observing 
to have the largest cask in that tier, and the guages 
of the casks on each side of the kelson, to correspond. 
Be careful that the bung holes are all up, and the 
bilge free, and head clear. 

After completing the first tier, go on with the se- 
cond, placing hanging beds between the casks, and 
stowing barked wood in all the breakages. As the 
tiers approach the wings, let the size of the cask di- 
minish. When the ground tier is all finished, fill and 
bung the casks. Stow the riding tiers in the cunt- 
lines of the ground tiers, fill and bung them up ; the 
stowage being commenced abaft, all breakage will be 
forward. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 129 

243. Stowage of Naval Stores. 

Stow the beef on the larboard side, and the pork 
on the starboard side, with the flour, rice and beans 
in the wings, chocking all off, fore and aft with 
wood. The casks in the spirit rooms are stowed in 
the same manner, with the exception that the stow- 
age is commenced forward, instead of abaft. Whis- 
key, molasses and vinegar are always stowed in 
casks. The liquors of the medical department, and 
pursers stores are generally stowed in the spirit 
room. 

Make a draft of the ground tier, and riding tiers, 
and spirit rooms. 

Note. The guages of all casks upon the draft, 
the number of barrels, boxes, &c, with the kind of 
provisions which they contain. 

The shot and wads may now be got on board and 
stowed in their respective lockers. 



244. To Get on Board the Cables. 

The cables are taken from the rope walks, and 
coiled upon a car, having a large hole in its bottom, 
after being transported to the wharf where the light- 
ers are, the upper end of the coil is taken down 
through all the flakes, and through the hole in the 



130 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

bottom of the car, then coiled away again in the 
lighter. By dipping the end in this manner grinds 
or kinks are prevented, and the cable is got into the 
lighter, with only one turn in it. 

Hemp cables are a hundred and twenty fathoms 
in length, a seventy four gun ship, or a frigate gene- 
rally has five, a sloop of war three. 

The lighter being towed off to the ship, haul un- 
der the bows, place masts in the sides and sills of 
one of the forward ports, get the cables in on deck, 
and French flake them fore and aft ; they are now 
with the same number of turns in them as when they 
left the rope walks. 

See that the orlops are clear, and that the skids 
are properly placed for the cable to lay on. Pass the 
end of the spare one below and coil away with the 
sun, on the starboard side of the main orlop, abaft, 
make the coil as large as possible, taking care not to 
have too many flakes, in a sheave, as the inside 
strands of the inner ones would be injured. 

Pass the ends of the two sheets below the starboard 
one on the larboard side and the larboard on the star- 
board side, and clinch them around the main mast, or 
to the orlop beams, coil them away with the sun, let- 
ting the ends remain out. These ends are pointed and 
tailed, as also, the ends of those which remain on 
deck. Join the pointed ends with a short splice, 
worming the tails along the cable. Having seizings 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 131 

put on at proper distances, these form two long 
cables ; and the whole five cables form three tiers. 
The upper ends of the two last cables, are crowned 
in the following manner, viz., clap a seizing round 
the cable, about two fathoms from the end, and un- 
lay it to the seizing. With the three inner strands 
form an artificial eye, cut off the three next ones, 
and woold their ends ; with the three outer ones, 
form a crown, worm the ends along the cable, and 
clap on seizings. 



245. Chain Cables. 

Are got in through the hause holes, and paid down, 
into their respective lockers, into the main hatch way, 
They are ninety fathoms long, and shackled to the 
kelson with a Jewsharp, or lashed. 

The stream cables and messengers are coiled away 
in the tier of the spare cable. The hawsers if pos- 
sible, should be stowed, so that the end of every one 
could be passed up together, or at the same time. 



246. To Get the Anchors on Board. 

Rig the fish davits, reeve and overhaul the cat 
and fish falls, get the anchors into a lighter and tow 



132 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

them under the bows, pass up the end of the stream 
cable and clinch to the ring of the bower anchor, 
hook the cat and run the anchor up to the cat head. 
Pass the stopper, hook the fish, and pass the shank 
painter, unbend the stream cable and bend it to the 
waist anchor, then drop the lighter aft. and secure 
her under the berth of the anchor. Brace the fore 
yard in, and the main yard up, as much as possible, 
and top them up a little, hook a stout tackle to 
act as a rolling tackle, bouse the lifts and trusses 
well taut. Pass a lashing around the slings of the 
yard, to ease the trusses. Hook Jooth top burtons to 
the yard arm, and set well up the opposite breast 
back stays. Pass a strop around the topmast, just 
above the lower cap. Hook the double block of a 
stout pendant tackle in this strop, and the single one 
is hooked just without the place where the bull's eye 
for the pendant is to be lashed ; haul well taut the 
lifts, burtons and pendant tackles alike, reeve whips 
and get up the triantic stays. The bull's eyes for 
the pendants are lashed far enough out upon the 
yards, to allow the anchor to clear the ship's side. 

Reeve the pendant up through it, and clinch the 
end to the lower mast head, have a thimble in the 
lower end to which the purchases are hooked. 

Have a thwartship tackle in readiness, to bouse 
the anchor to the gunwale ; lash the lower block of 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 133 

the main purchases, to the crown of the anchor 
having guys from each fluke to keep it steady. 

The fore purchase block is lashed to the ring. 

Rack the topsail tye aloft, and hook the lower 
block of the fore topsail halyards to a stout strop, 
passed around the shank of the anchor (amidships) 
then lashed above the middle of the upper arm of the 
stock, haul taut handsomely. u Sway away ;" when 
high enough, haul over on the stay and athwart- 
ship tackles, get the bill of the anchor upon the 
gunwale, pass tripp stopper place shoes and secure 
the anchor, with stock and shank lashings ; unbend 
the stream cable, and unlash purchases. 

Drop the lighter around on the other side of the 
ship. Shift over your purchases, secure your yards, 
and get up the other bower and waist anchors in 
the same manner. When done, pass the stream 
cable below. 



247. To Bend the Cables. 

Reeve a ring rope through the ring of the anchor, 

leading it in through the hawse holes, and bend it to 

the cable with a timber hitch, three or four fathoms 

from the end, having it stopped along to the end. 

Haul out on the ring rope, and when you have 

enough of the end through the ring, cut the stops, 

unbend the ring rope, and form an inside clinch, 

12 



134 HEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

having it smaller than the ring of the anchor. The 
bends are put on opposite to each other, and 
a small bend is put on near the end to secure it. 

Render the cables as far as possible through the 
clinch, and stop them together to prevent chafes, &c. 

The chain cables are shackled to the rings of the 
anchors, then bend the buoy ropes. 



248. To Range and Stopper the Cables. 

Before ranging the cables, they should be bitted, 
which is done as follows ; when the cables are bent, 
haul up sufficient slack to form a bight abaft the 
bitts, throw the bight which is thus formed, over the 
head of the bitts, and in case you wish to weather 
bitt it, take another turn around the cavil. In rang- 
ing, get a tail block over the hatchway, and reeve a 
rope through it, which overhaul down and hitch to 
the cable. Take the running part close out to the 
guns, bouse upon the rope and French flake the 
cable fore and aft the decks. Clap on deck and bitt 
stoppers, before and abaft the bitts, put on rounding 
at the range, which is intended to veer, and also have 
cable mats in readiness, to be used as may be re- 
quired. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 135 

249. /Stoppers and Nippers. 

The cat head stopper has a knot worked in the 
end, is then rove through the hole in the cat head 
through the ring in the anchor, and taken over the 
cleat, on the side of the cat head, in board and be- 
layed. 



250. The Tripp Stoppers. 

Both ends are made fast to eye bolts under the af- 
ter part of the fore channels. The score in the end 
of the waist anchor stock rest in the bight, its use is 
to tripp the anchor when let go, clear of the ship's 
side. 



251. Deck Stoppers 

Are hooked to bolts in the deck. They have a knot 
worked in the end with a lanyard fast to it. The 
lanyard is passed around both stopper and cable, 
abaft the knot, and then wormed along the cable, 
forward of it. 



252. Ring Stoppers 
Are ropes middled, the bights being taken through 



136 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

the deck bolts, the ends rove through and dogged 
along the cable. 



253. Bitt Stoppers 

Are tailed and rove through the Sampson knee 
forward of the bitts, taken over the cable abaft the 
bitts, under again, and wormed along the cable for- 
ward. 



254. Dog Stoppers 

Are very long, and are used in the tiers. One end 
is clinched around the main mast, and the other 
wormed along the cable. 

The wing stoppers are similar, but are clinched 
around the orlop deck beams in the wings. 



255. The Combing Stoppers, or Compressers. 

For hemp cables they are very long, and are 
tailed. Two holes are bored through the deck, abaft 
the after beam of the hatch ; one end of the stopper 
is rove through one of the holes, downwards, passed 
under the cable and rove up again through the other 
hole, both ends are then dogged around the cable 
taut, so as to nip it against the beam, 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 137 

For chain cables, the combing stopper is an iron 
elbow, one end of which is bolted to the forward beam 
of the hatch underneath, the elbow goes around the 
cable, having an eye in the other end to which a 
luff tackle is hooked, which being hauled upon, 
stoppers the cable effectually. 



256. Nippers 

Should be five fathoms long and made of the best 
of rope yams. 



257. To Pass a Nipper. 

Lay the messenger on the cable, and begin two 

or three fathoms abaft the hawse hole, to pass the 

nippers, which is done as follows. Two round turns 

are first taken with the end of the nipper, around 

the messenger and held by a boy ; then round 

both ; the other end is wormed around the cable, as 

the first was around the messenger. When the strain 

becomes heavy, racking, and even round turns may 

be used, having also small heavers, and selvages to 

secure the ends, taking care to have dry ones ready 

to use when the cable is up and down. 

12* 



138 HEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

258. To Splice an Old Cable to a New One. 

Take the old one to the rope walk ; unlay the ends 
and splice them to the ends of the new one with a 
long splice, after which lay up the latter. 



259. To Cut and Pass a Messenger. 

The length should be equal to twice the distance 
from the after part of the capstern to the roller in the 
manger, added to four times the circumference of the 
capstern band ; this is sufficient for splicing in the 
eyes and taking the turns. The messenger is passed 
with three round turns, and then the eyes are lashed 
with the lanyard figure of 8 fashion, the part which 
is brought to the cable is undermost. 



260. To Dip a Messenger. 

Cast off the lashing, slack up the turns and pass 
the eye up or down, as necessary. Between the turns 
and capstern, render the turns through each other 
and pass the lashing again. 



261. To Get the Guns on Board. 
Have the gun carriages and all the equipments 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 139 

belonging to them brought alongside in lighters ; 
hoist them in with the yard and stay, and get them 
on their respective decks, brace up the main yard, 
over the port through which the guns are to be taken 
in, and secure as for getting up the waist anchor, 
with the addition of using another pendant tackle, 
the double block of which is used to hook to a strop 
passed around the lower cap, and the single one to a 
strop just within the place where the bull's eye for 
the pendant is to be lashed on. Lash on the bull's 
eye, between the single block of the pendant tackle, 
and reeve a pendant tackle like the one which was 
used for the waist anchor. A hole is bored through 
the spar deck if a frigate, but if a line of battle ship 
through the spar and main deck abreast the gangway 
port, and the gurnet rove down through. A hook 
and thimble is spliced in the lower end of the gur- 
net, and a thimble in the upper end, which is hook- 
ed to the main pendant tackle. Make the slings of 
breeching stuff, and seize an eye on the bight, large 
enough to go over the breech of the gun, put over the 
eye, and put the slings along the upper part of the 
gun, lashing them with a piece of rope around all 
just forward of the trunnion ; bend a hawser also to 
weigh the gun, in the event of parting the purchase, and 
lash the purchase block to the bight of the slings ; 
" S way away," and drop the lighter from under the gun, 
and when the breech is as high as the port, hook the 



140 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

garnet and athwartship tackle to the breeching ring 
rouse in, run a carriage under, lower away, place the 
trunnions fair, clamp them, come up the purchases 
and transport the gun to its port ; get all lower and 
main deck guns in the same way. The carronades 
are taken in over the rail, a toggle is put in the muz- 
zle, one bight of the slings over the cascabel, the 
other over the muzzle, and back lashed to the tog- 
gle, the stay or purchase block is lashed on midships 
of the slings, and the stay or pendant tackle to the 
same place, consequently the gun will come in 
square, have the slide and bed ready, place it fair and 
drive in the naval bolt. Ship the screws, beds and 
coins, reeve the breeching, hook side and train tackles, 
see the guns square in the ports, and secure them there. 

Note. The reason for having an additional secu- 
rity on the main yard is, because in getting in guns 
the strain is altogether on the yard, while in getting 
up the anchors, which are of the same weight as a 
gun nearly, the strain is divided between two yards. 
The main deck guns might be taken in over the 
rail and struck down the main hatch. 



262. To Ship and Unship a Rudder. 

Have the rudder brought under the stern in a 
scow. Bore a hole through a beam or carline over 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 141 

the rudder case. Drive an eye bolt up through it, 

and fit a washer and forelock. Strop a large single 

lock with hook and thimble, and hook it to the 

ye bolt, reeve a top pendant through the single 

lock, down through the rudder case, and hitch it 

o an v eye bolt, which is temporarily fitted into the 

udder head. Clap a deck tackle on to the other end 

jof the pendant, have heel ropes leading forward on 

each side, being rove through their respective holes 

lin the rudder; man the deck tackle fall and hoist 

away. When the rudder is high enough, guy it fair, see 

the pintles fair for entering the gudgeons, and lower, 

fit in the wood lock. Come up the pendant, unreeve 

the heel ropes, take the bolt from the rudder head, 

the one from the beam or carline above, ship the 

tiller, and reeve the wheel ropes. 

To unship it. Fit the bolts, single block, pen- 
dant and deck tackles as before, unreeve the wheel 
ropes, unship the tiller, knock out the wood lock 
and sway away, when the pintles are clear of the 
gudgeons, lower away, secure it to the scow or 
lighter, tow it on shore, parbuckle or hoist it out of 
the water. 



263. To Bend Sails and Stay Sails. 
Call all hands to bend sails, get the courses, jib. 



14& KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

topsail, and spanker on deck. Open them out, and see 
that they are whole, that the bowline bridles, head 
and reef earings, rope bands, reef points, sheet clew- 
line, and reef tackle blocks, are in their proper places ; 
bight the topsails down in slings abaft their respec- 
tive masts, with the clews out and that yard arm 
uppermost, opposite the side on which they are to 
be sent aloft, round up the flyblock of the topsail 
halyards, high enough for the lower block to take 
the topsail clear of the top rail, and rack the tye se- 
curely to a back stay. Hook the lower block of the 
topsail halyard to the slings, also a snatch block, 
which mouse. Reeve the halyard through the snatch 
block, then through another farther aft, and it will 
serve as a jack stay to keep the sail clear of the top 
as it goes up. Sway aloft the topsail and get it into 
the forward part of the top. Overhaul down the hal- 
yards, hook and haul them taut, reeve and bend the 
sheets, clewlines, buntlines, reef tackles and bow- 
lines. Stop the head of the sail to the buntlines, hook 
the double block of a lurT to a strop on the yard arm, 
the single one to the first reef cringle, stopping the 
head earings, to the standing part. Overhaul the 
course, athwart the deck, seize on the sheet, tack and 
clue garnet blocks, reeve and bend the geer. Stop the 
head of the sail to the buntlines, use the top burtons 
for yard ropes, hooking through the first reef cringle, 
stopping the head earings to the standing parts. Turn 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 143 

the block out of the end of the jib stay, and bend on 
a line, bring the end in on the forecastle, stop the 
luff of the jib, seize on the halyard block, reeve the 
halyards and downhauls, fit the brail bloek, reeve the 
brails, seize on the sheet pendants, and reeve the 
sheets, lower the spanker gaff, pass the throat and 
peak earings, and lace the head to the gaff. Seize 
on the brails, reeve them and the outhauler. 
To man the gear. Man the jib halyards and 
downhaul, yard ropes, clew garnets, clewlines, bunt- 
lines, reef tackles and gaff halyards, run out the jib, 
reeve and set up the stay and seize the tack, sway 
the topsails and courses, up to the yards, where some 
hands are ready to receive them, bend the gear and 
haul out, then take a turn with the earings, ride 
down the heads, then pass the earings exactly, make 
fast the rope bands, fit the leachline block of the 
courses, seize on and reeve the leechline. Some 
hands are employed in seizing on the hoops to the 
luff of the spanker as it goes aloft. Let all the sails 
fall, to see if the gear is bent clear, clew up and furl 
the courses and topsails, stow jib and spanker. 

The top gallant sails, royals and studding sails, 
are bent on deck. Send the stay sails into the tops, 
fit the jack stays and tricing line blocks, to the lat- 
ter, seize the head of the luff, reeve the halyards, 
downhauls and brails, bend the tacks and sheets, stow 
the stay sails, and haul all taut. 



144 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

264. To Bend Flying Jib and Fore Top Mast 

Stay Sail. 

These sails are bent like the jib, excepting that 
the fore topmast spring stay, is not come up. 

Note. In running out the jib, it is necessary to 
pass a strop around the body of the sail, and to this 
hook the halyards and dowhaul now by hoisting on 
halyards, and running out on the downhaul, and a 
rope which is bent to the end of the stay the sail 
goes out fair. 

265. To Carry Out an Anchor with a Boat. 

Hang the anchor to the stern of the boat, by good 
stoppers, having a buoy rope and buoy to it, pass 
the end of the cable or hawser out through the 
hawse hole, and coil enough of it away in the bows 
of the boat to reach the bottom. Now capsize the 
coil, bight by bight in the stern sheets, and then 
the end will be uppermost, bend the cable or hawser 
in board, when in the right place, heave over the 
buoy and see that the buoy rope is clear, stand clear 
of the cable and slip the stoppers. 



266. To Haul Off and Moor Ship. 
Before hauling off, hoist in and stow the spare 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 145 

spars, securing them by gripes, place the boat's 
chocks, get on board all stores, and the complement 
of men from the receiving ship, get up kedges and 
hawsers, ready for instant service, see the boats pro- 
vided with crews, oars, and sails. Run out a kedge, 
and drop it where the first or weather anchor 
is to be planted. Have guys from the ship to 
the shore, single the fasts, hang over fenders and out 
riggers, man the hawser, cast off the fasts and warp 
off, checking her as necessary by the guys, run the 
kedge up to the bows and let go the weather anchor, 
veer too as fast as she will take it, assisting her in 
going astern by the mizen topsail if necessary. If 
to shoot her to either side, use the helm, jib or spanker, 
and in case there is no wind, use kedges and hawsers, 
when a double scope is out, stopper the cable, and 
let go the second anchor, furl the mizen topsail, bring 
too on the weather cable and heave in to the moor- 
ings, moor a little taut to allow for veering, clap on 
service, and veer it to the hawse hole if a hemp cable. 



267. Getting in the Spare Spars. 

In hoisting in the spare spars, use the yard and 
stay tackles, across each other, the main being hook- 
ed forward, and the fore abaft. This is done, because 
the spars are too long to come directly in between 

the fore and main rigging ; by bousing upon one of 

13 



146 KEDGE ANCHOR, Oil 

the stay tackles, the spar is brought far enough for- 
ward or aft to allow the other end to come up and 
in, when the operation is reversed. In stowing the 
spare topmast, lay the heads of the main and mizen 
abaft, and the head of the fore, forward, and they 
will be ready for pointing. ' 



268. Station the Crew. 

In dividing the crew into watches, care should be 
taken tnat the physical force is as equally distributed 
as possible, and there be as many seamen, ordinary 
seamen, landsmen, boys, and marines, in one watch, 
as in the other. 

Petty officers should be chosen from among the 
seamen, selected from those who have been long in 
the service, and who have proved faithful. Fore 
castle men should be middle aged seamen, with a few 
ordinary seamen and landsmen. Topmen, young 
active seamen, a few ordinary seamen, landsmen and 
boys. After guard, a few elderly seamen, with ordi- 
nary seamen and landsmen. Waisters, chiefly lands- 
men, with a few ordinary seamen ; in single decked 
ships, where there are no waisters, more men should 
be stationed on the fore castle and in the after guard, 
than there would be in proportion on board of a 
line of battle ship, or frigate ; idlers are excused from 
watch. They are officer's servants, cooks, (fee. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 



147 



Divide each watch into first and second parts, 
appoint a captain to each part, number the men be- 
longing to the fore castle, having all the larboard 
watch even, as two, four, six, and the starboard, odd, 
as one, three, five ; have the numbers painted on can- 
vass, and let each man sew it on his bag and ham- 
mocks, having also for greater distinction, the lar- 
board painted red, and the starboard black. The men 
should be below alternately, so that when one watch 
is below there should be an equal number on each 
side. 

In each watch, line of battle ship, frigate, and sloop 
of war 





Line of Battle Ship. 


'Frigate. 


Sloop of War. 


Fore castle. 
Fore & Main top. 
Mizen top. 


Generally about 40 men. 
« u 30 « 


About 30 men. 
« 30 '■ 
« 20 " 


About 14 men. 
" 12 " 



269. Station the Crew at Quarters. 

Choose for the captains of your guns, seamen who 
have been long accustomed to them, steady, with 
good sight, and quick motion. The boarders should 
be stout men. The firemen and sail trimmers, young 
and active men. The largest and stoutest men should 
be chosen to man the long guns, the others the carron- 
nades. Be particular to station them as near where 



148 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

they are accustomed to do their duty as possible, in 
order to prevent confusion. Let all the first part of 
the gun's crew be in one watch, and the second part 
in the other, so that in the event of going to quarters 
in the night, the watch on deck can clear away the 
guns, while the watch below clear away the ham- 
mocks. 



270. To a Twelve pound Carronnade 

Are stationed four men and one boy. All the men 
stationed at the long guns of a double decked ship, 
should be armed with cutlasses, and called boarders, 
the first of the gun's crew to be called second boarders, 
and " vice versa." They are only to be called when 
required to board, or in case of great emergency, to 
repel boarders, and then every man will repair to the 
upper deck, except the firemen, quarter gunners, and 
powder boys, who will remain below to protect the 
ports, or to assist in extinguishing a fire. 

All the men stationed at the carronnades should 
be boarders and sail trimmers. As boarders, the first 
part should be armed with pikes, the second part with 
small arms, and are to repel the boarders, but not to 
quit the ship. 

All the men stationed of a single decked ship, are 
boarders ; the first part to be armed with cutlasses, 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 149 

the second part with pikes. The battery being 
manned, distribute the rest of the crew as follows : 
have a quarter master at the signals when in a squad- 
ron, topmen and marines in the tops, to repair dam- 
ages, and act as small arm men. A quarter master 
and two men at the relieving tackles, men stationed 
at the passages, to pass full and empty boxes ; also 
others at the shot lockers. Mastmen to see the rig- 
ging clear, cook and armourer at the galley, the car- 
penter and his mates at the pumps and wings, the 
master at arms and ship's corporal in the light room, 
the gunner, his mates, quarter gunners, and cooper, 
in the magazine, the surgeon and assistants in the 
cock pit. 



27 i. Station the Crew for Mooring and Unmoor- 
ing. 

In stationing the men, place the same number of 
men of each watch to perform a piece of duty. Have 
quarter masters at the signals, when in a squadron, 
in the chains, at the lookout ; men at the wheel, 
quarter gunners to overhaul the fish and grapple the 
buoys, men to overhaul and hook the cat, attend back 
ropes ; also others at the mast to see the rigging 
clear. Boatswain's mates in the gangways, carpen- 
ters to ship and unship capstan bars, attend stan- 
chions, with the music at the capstan — some fore top- 

13* 



150 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

men to put on nippers, some main topmen to take them 
off, and boys to carry them forward. Men to rouse 
up and veer away cable, to attend stoppers and light 
forward the messenger. The yeoman in the store 
rooms, master at arms and ship's corporal on the berth 
deck, and cook at the galley. Tierers in each tier, 
and the remainder of the men at the capstan. 



272. Station the Men — Loosing and Furling. 

Take the same number of men from each watch, 
and station them at the same rope, &c. The topmen 
are to man their respective yards, hands are to attend 
the boom jiggers and tricing lines, fore castle men to 
attend head sails and foresail, main yard men to look 
out for the main sail, after guard for the spanker and 
mizen stay sail, for the main topmast stay sail, the 
fore castle men ; for the main stay sail, the gunner's 
crew, men stationed to sheet home and hoist the top- 
sails, and when coming to anchor the same men to 
man the clewlines, buntlines, and weather braces ; 
and when loosing sails to dry, to man bowlines or 
buntlines, in furling, the captains are to be in the bunt. 



273. Station the Crew for Tacking and Veering. 
Station the men from the watch bill, have hands 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 151 

at the jib boom end, to overhaul jib brails and light 
over jib sheets. On the bowsprit end to light over 
jib pendants, hands on the bumpkins and in the 
chains, to overhaul tacks and sheets, and back stay 
falls. On deck, at the wheel, sprit sail braces, jib 
sheets, jib brails, braces, bowlines, clew garnets, tacks 
and sheets, back stay falls, lifts, trusses, spanker 
sheets, guys, vang and topping lifts. Aloft to over- 
haul lifts and trusses, attend outriggers, and bear the 
backstays abaft and abreast, the mast men to see the 
rigging clear, &c. 



274. Station the Crew for Reefing. 

The men are stationed as in furling, except the 
captains, who are at the earings ; when the yards are 
down, the men from the clewlines and buntlines, 
will haul out the reef tackles. 



275. To Mark the Lead Line. 

At two fathoms, two strips of leather, at three 
fathoms three strips of leather, at five fathoms a 
white rag, at seven fathoms a red rag, at ten fathoms, 
a piece of leather with a hole in it, at thirteen the 
same as three, at fifteen the same as five, at seven- 



152 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

teen the same as seven, at twenty fathoms, two knots 
and then one knot for every ten fathoms. 



276. To make the Log Line. 

Allow twelve fathoms for stray line, where stick in 
a white rag, then at every 47 feet and 6 tenths, 
mark the line as follows, viz., at 1, one leather, 
at 2, two knots, at 3, three knots, having a mark 
also at every half knot. The glasses should 
be proved with a good watch, having a second hand. 
The principle of the log line is, that the knot is the 
same part of a sea mile, that half a minute is of an 
hour, therefore the length of a knot should be one 
one hundred and twentieth the length of a sea mile, 
or fifty one feet, but as it is more convenient to have 
the knot divided into eight parts, of six feet each, the 
proportional reduction is necessary in the glass. 
Therefore as fifty one feet : 30 seconds : : 48 feet : 
28 4-17 seconds,- but as the fraction can more easily 
be allowed in the line than the glass, another pro- 
portion is necessary, viz., as, 28 4-17 seconds : 48 
feet : : 28 seconds to 47.6 feet, or the length of a 
knot. 



277. To Clear Hawse. 
Call all hands, " clear hawse," have the starboard 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 153 

watch on deck, and the larboard watch below in a 
double decked ship. Lash a stout single block to 
the bowsprit, and reeve the clear hawse pendant 
through it, haul the launch under the bows, or if 
there is too much sea on, or she is not out, send a 
hand down in a bowline, and hook the pendant to 
the riding cable, below the turn, and bouse them up 
clear of the water, after which pass a stout lashing 
around both cables. If there should be much sea 
on, or the wind rlawey and variable, it would be 
well to pass the end of a hawser out of the hawse- 
hole and hitch it to the cable ; to relieve the lashing, 
reeve ropes through blocks on each side of the bow- 
sprit end, for bowlines, and pass them in at the 
hawse hole, so as to take out an elbow. For ex- 
ample. Suppose the starboard was the clearing 
cable, and it was under the other, take the larboard 
bowline down under the cable, up into the starboard 
hawse hole, and the starboard one over to the lar- 
board side of the cable, then follow the lead of the 
larboard bowline, bend on several fathoms inside and 
stop along to the hawse hole, draw the splice, bend 
on hawse rope, off stoppers, and run out, hang the 
bights to the bowsprit, with slip ropes, and send in 
the bowlines again, the same way as before, when 
the end is out " cast off" and dip it fair and bend on 
again to the end of the cable, rouse in, slack down 
the slip ropes, and splice the cable, haul it taut with 



154 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

a deck tackle, bitt and stopper, cast off the hawser 
unlash the cable, unreeve the clear hawse pendant, 
unlash the block from the bowsprit end, clear up 
the deck, and pipe down. 



278. Note. 

If there is a round turn and an elbow in 
the hawse after rousing the cable, repeat the opera- 
tion as before, it is always well to prevent confusion, 
to take out one elbow at a time. A cross is when 
the cables lay across each other, or when the ship 
has swung foul once ; an elbow is two crosses, and 
around turn is three crosses : a round turn and elbow 
is five crosses, it can readily be seen thus, in clear- 
ing hawse with a round turn, a cross will be left in 
the cables. 



279. To Weigh an Anchor With the Launch. 

This may be done by underrunning, when the 
ship. has slipped, or weighing by the buoy rope, 
when the anchor lies in too shoal water for the ship 
to be hove up to it. 

Ship the roller on the stern of the launch, take 
strong tackles with a jigger also, and some good rope 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 155 

or stoppers, get the end of the coble over the roller, 
100k the double block of the tackle to a strop passed 
tround it, the single one to a bolt in the bows, and 
nan the fall, and as the cable comes in, French flake 
t along the athwarts, when the tackle comes two 
locks, stopper and fleet, when the cable is up and 
Jown clap the jigger on the fall of the tackle, and 
leave the boat's stern well down in the water and 
stopper securely, send all the men into the bows of 
he boat, jump the boat and break ground, then man 
he fall again, off stopper and heave up, when the 
ring is above water, pass a short ring stopper, and 
laul the buoy on board, when along side, hook the 
cat, and cat the anchor, get the end of the cable un- 
clinched, and passed into the hawse, and haul the 
remainder out of the launch. 



280. To Weigh with a Buoy Rope. 

Get the buoy rope over the roller, clap on a tackle, 
and weigh the anchor as before. When it is secured, 
man the capstan, heave the launch in under the bows 
and cat the anchor. 

Note. Anchors are sometimes weighed with the 
buoy rope, when the cable has parted and the end 
cannot be grappled ; when this is the case, the anchor 
may be weighed with the launch, brought under the 



156 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

bows and catted, the cable unclinched and hove in, 
or the ship might be warped over the buoy and the 
cat fall taken to the buoy rope. 



281. To Take in a Launch. 

Brace and secure the yards, the same as for getting 
up the anchors, also rig the same purchases, place 
the chocks, pass every thing out of the launch, and 
hook the purchases to spans, have a couple of hands 
in the boat to keep her clear of the ship's side, man 
the yard tackle falls, and have a few hands to take 
in the slack of the stay falls, walk away, and when 
the boat leaves the water, take out the plug, when 
high enough to clear the waist anchor stock, haul 
over the main stay, easing away the fore and main 
yards, when the stern is over the deck, haul over the 
forestay, lower and place her in the chocks. The other 
boats may be got in by the same purchases, the 
launch is stowed on the larboard side, the first cutter 
on the starboard side, the second cutter inside the 
launch, the third cutter inside the first ; when all are 
in, unrig the purchases, square the yards and set up 
the gripes. 

The quarter and stern boats are hoisted up to thf 
davits and secured to them, by stoppers, and the 
gripes are set up. 



YOUNG SAILOR ? S ASSISTANT. 157 

282. To Take in Boats at Both /Sides at Once. 

The yards are kept square and secured on both 
sides, by the lifts, burtons, and quarter lifts. Use the 
winding and stay tackles for the heaviest boats, the 
yard tackles for the lightest ones, the top sail hal- 
yards forward arid the main pendant tackle aft acting 
as stays to bring them on board. Come up the for- 
ward back stays as they would interfere with the 
bows of the boats, after which proceed as before. 

Note. To take in a boat at sea, back the main 
topsail, get the boat to leeward, secure the lower yards 
as before directed, and hoist her in. She coming in to 
leeward, tackles will be necessary to get her to wind- 
ward sufficiently to lower away. When before the 
wind, a boat might be got in, by securing the yards 
as before, and taking a hawser from aft, to the stern 
of the boat, to keep her from sending forward when 
she leaves the water, and thereby endangering the 
yards. 



283. To Unmoor Ship. 

See that tha hawse is clear, and overhaul a range 
of the weather cable, get up nippers, pass the mes- 
senger, knock up the stancheons, ship the gratings, 
ship and swifter in the capstan bars, rig the fish 

davit, overhaul cat and fish, "Call all hands un- 

14 



158 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

moor ship," have leadsmen in the chains, men at 
the wheel, man the bars, bring too on the lee cable, 
heave taut, off stoppers, unbit and heave in, veer 
away on the weather cable ; when the lee cable is up 
and down, stopper the former, heave up, pall the 
capstern, hook the cat and walk away. When high 
enough, surge the messenger, pass cat head stoppers, 
grapple the buoy, hook the fish, walk away ; when 
high enough, pass shank painter, dip the messenger, 
bring too on the other cable, and heave in to the old 
service — clear up the decks. 



284. When the Messenger Strands, or is likely to 

Part. 

If the messenger is likely to part from the great 
strain, stopper immediately, and either pass a new 
one, or reeve a viol, assisting it with cat fall. Lash 
the viol block to the cable near the hause hole, clinch 
one end of the hawser to the main mast, snatch the 
bight to the block and take the other end to the cap- 
starn. Pass a strop around the cable close down to 
the water, hook the cat to it, and heave up by the 
viol and cat fall. If the messenger should strand, 
stopper immediately, cut it, then knot or splice it. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 159 

285. Leeward Tide to Get Under Weigh and 
Stand Out on a Wind. 

Overhaul a range of the cable by which she is not 
riding, get the anchor ready for letting go, have 
hands attending the stoppers, pass the messenger, 
knock up the stancheons, ship the gratings, ship and 
swifter the capstan bars, rig the fish davit, reeve and 
overhaul the cat and fish. " Call all hands up anchor," 
have leadsmen in the chains and men at the wheel, 
man the bars, bring too, heave taut, off stoppers, un- 
bitt and heave in, when into a small scope, pall. 
" Aloft sail loosers," and loose all sail, sheet home and 
hoist the topsails. If riding by the starboard cable and 
no impediment to port, it will be most eligible, to 
cast her on the starboard tack, as the cable will then 
be clear of the cutwater, and the ship being to leeward 
of her anchor, it can be more easily catted and fish- 
ed. If there should be much sea on, this would be 
the best plan. 

Having determined to cast on the starboard tack, 
overhaul lifts, trusses and backstay falls. The fore top- 
sail being put aback by the starboard braces, the 
main and mizen by the wind, with the larboard 
after braces, heaving around briskly, and before 
breaking ground, give her a sheer with the starboard 
helm, when up, hoist the jib, keeping the helm a 
starboard, until the stern board exceeds the velocity 



160 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

of the tide, when shift it and grapple the buoy, when 
she has fallen off, so as to fill the after sails, let flow 
the jib sheet, haul out the spanker, set top gallant 
sails and courses, trim the yards and sails properly. 
To cast off on the larboard tack put the helm a port, 
and brace the yards the contrary way. 



286. To Get Under Weigh and Stand Before 

the Wind. 

Make all preparations for getting under weigh, 
heave in and make sail as before. Lay the main 
and mizen topsails square aback, the fore one sharp 
aback according to the side it is intended to cast, 
heave in, cant her the right way with the helm be- 
fore tripping, and as soon as the velocity of the stern 
board is greater than that of the tide, shift the helm, 
grapple the buoy, run up the jib as soon as it will 
take, haul aft the weather jib sheet. While falling off 
cat and fish the anchor, as she gathers head way shift 
the helm, when before the wind, right it, square the 
head yards, and brail up the jib, set top gallant sails, 
royals and foresail, haul taut lifts, trusses, backstay 
falls, set the studding sails if necessary. 



287. In Getting Under Weigh, Back Astern, to 
Avoid Danger. 

Make all preparations, heave in and make sail as 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 161 

before. If required to cast on the starboard tack, sheer 
her with the starboard helm, to bring the wind on 
the starboard bow, brace the yards fore and aft, aback 
about half up with the larboard braces, haul out the 
spanker and keep the boom nearly amidships, heave 
up briskly, grapple the buoy, and as soon as the an- 
chor is up, put the helm hard a weather to keep her 
too, cat and fish the anchor, having made sufficient 
stern board, shift the helm, brace about the after 
yards, ease off the spanker sheet and run up the jib, 
when full aft, brace round the head yards, and as she 
gathers head way, right the helm and make sail. To 
cast on the larboard tack, sheer her with the port 
helm, and brace all sharp aback and proceed as be- 
fore. 



288. Get Under Weigh, a Shoal on Each Beam. 

It becomes necessary to proceed to sea, and is im- 
possible, to weather either of those abeam ; but there 
is just room to pass between a shoal astern and either 
of those abeam {blowing fresh.) 

Pass the stream cable out of one of the quarter 
ports, bend on one end to the cable and secure the 
other to the topsail sheet bitts, draw the splice of the 
cable, bend a slip buoy to it, and heave it overboard. 
See the stoppers clear for slipping, stop the topsails to 

14* 



162 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

the yards with spun yarn, casting off the gaskets, 
loose the courses, jib and spanker, mast head the 
topsail yards, man the jib halyards, shear her from 
the cable, with the helm, slip and run up the jib, 
keep fast the stream cable, and let her swing round ; 
when she heads for the passage, slip the stream cable, 
right the helm, sheet home the topsails, set the 
courses, and other sails if necessary, then stand 
through the passage. 



289. Get Under Weighs at Anchor, in a Narrow 

Channel. 

At anchor in a narrow channel and riding to a 
strong leeward tide and blowing fresh, a ship astern 
and one on each quarter, so near that there is not 
room to veer after casting, it is necessary to go to 
sea, and to do so a passage must be effected between 
the two ships. 

Make all preparations for getting under weigh and 
heave in as described before, loose the topsails, 
if riding by the starboard cable give her a rank sheer 
with the starboard helm, set up the starboard back- 
stays, bear aft the larboard ones, overhaul lifts and 
trusses, haul out the spanker, and get the boom over on 
the larboard quarter, lead along main tack and sheet, 
run the jib'up, and haul aft the weather sheet, heave 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 163 

round cheerily, rim the anchor up, grapple the buoy 
as soon as she fills, meet her with the helm, board 
the main tack to catch her, trim the jib and spanker 
sheets, set the foresail and trim sharp, haul the bow- 
lines, and stand on as far as necessary. 

Note. A great deal of uncertainty attends this 
manner, if there is room it would be the best plan to 
lay the head yards aback. It is confidently asserted, 
by old experienced seamen, that the above method is 
perfectly practicable. 



290. Head to Wind, Cast on Larboard Tack. 

Make all preparations, heave in and make sail as 
beforte, sheer her with a port helm, brace the 
head yards, sharp up with the larboard braces, and 
counter brace the after ones, haul out the spanker 
and get the boom on the starboard quarter, heave in, 
break ground, get the buoy, up jib, as soon as it will 
take, shift the helm, when the sternboard exceeds the 
velocity of the tide, when the after sails are full, trim 
the spanker, let flow the jib sheet, cat and fish the 
anchor, haul aft the jib sheet, brace round the head 
yards, and make sail. 



291. Windward Tide, Get Under Weigh and 
Stand Before the Wind. 

Make all preparation for getting under weigh, 



164 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

heave in, loose the jib, up anchor, grapple the buoy, 
run the jib up, cat and fish the anchor, and make 
sail with expedition. 

Note. If it was necessary to have the ship under 
greater command, and as might be the case in a nar- 
row channel or crowded harbour, it would be better 
to proceed as follows, heave in to a short stay, loose 
the courses, topsails, jib and spanker, if riding by the 
starboard cable, sheer her with the starboard helm, 
and bring the wind on the larboard quarter, brace 
the yards too, by the larboard braces, and keep them 
shivering by the helm, heave up, fill the after yards and 
square the head ones, haul aft jib sheet on starboard 
tack, cat and fish the anchor, up helm, fill the head 
yards, shiver the after ones, get her before the wind, 
and make sail. 



292. To Get Under Weigh, and Stand Out on a 

Wind. 

Make all preparations, commence heaving in, 
loose jib and spanker, top up and bear over the 
spanker boom on the right quarter, and the helm to 
the side which it is intended to cast, heave up, get 
the buoy, haul out the spanker as soon as it will take, 
when the wind gets abeam, run up the jib and meet 
her with the helm, cat and fish the anchor loose, 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 165 

sheet home, and hoist the topsails, brace up, bring 
by and make sail. 



293. Riding Head to Tide, Wind on the /Star- 
board Quarter, to Get Under Weigh on the 
Starboard Tack. 

Make all preparations, heave short, loose sails, 
sheet home and hoist the top sails, bracing them too 
with the starboard braces ; keep them shivering by the 
assistance of the topsails and helm, heave around, 
break ground, put the helm a starboard, brace full 
the head yards, run up the jib, and let her pay round 
to port, heave up the anchor, and grapple the buoy, 
haul out the spanker, as soon as it will take, shift 
over the head sheets, and square the head yards, 
trim aft the jib sheet, and meet her with the helm, 
cat and fish the anchor and make sail. 



294. To Get Under Weigh, Wind Across the 

Tide. 

To get under weigh, ebb tide, make all prepara- 
tions, loose, sheet home, and hoist the topsails, brace 
up the fore and mizen top sails, and lay the main 
yard to the mast. Give her a spoke or two of lee 
wheel, so as to take the main topsail well aback? 



166 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

heave the anchor up, cat and fish it, grapple the 
buoy, at the same time set the jib and spanker, fill 
the main yard, stand on to a convenient place, then 
either tack or veer. The evolution is determined by 
the circumstance of there being more room to wind- 
ward or to leeward. 



295. To Get Under Weigh Flood Tide. 

Proceed as before until the anchor is catted and 
fished, then hoist the jib, haul out the spanker, fill 
the main topsail, and stand out making whatever 
sail may be judged necessary. 



296. To Back and Fill in a Tide Way. 

This manoeuvre is only executed when a ship is 
to proceed up or down a rapid river against the 
wind, which is supposed to be light and may be 
done by two methods, viz., driving before the wind 
or broadside to it, when the channel is broad enough, 
the latter method is preferable, as the ship will be 
more under the command of her helm. 



297. To Drive Before the Wind. 
This is only done in a very narrow channel, 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 167 

heave up the anchor, and get her before the wind, 
with just sail enough to keep her so. Suppose her, 
under topsails, and as she drops 'with the tide it be- 
comes necessary for her to remain stationary, to al- 
low a ship to pass her stern, set top gallant sails, and 
if required to shoot ahead, drop the fore sail, if to 
avoid a rock or ship astern, put the helm up or 
down, haul out the spanker, brace up, haul aft the 
jib sheet, as, she comes too; shoot across until clear 
of danger, when put the helm up, brail up the 
spanker and shiver the after yards, and when before 
the wind brail up the jib. If in standing across she 
should get too near the shore, get her on the other 
tack, by waring or box hauling. 



298. To Drive Broadside Too. 

Get under weigh, bring her by the wind under 
the jib, topsails and spanker, shiver the topsails, 
when filled stand on to the middle of the channel, 
brail up the jib and spanker, let her drift in this situ- 
ation until she falls off which she will soon do, owing 
to her greater immersion aft than forward, which 
will drift her stern farther to windward, haul out the 
spanker, and if this is insufficient, back the mizen 
topsail ; if she still falls off, back the main also, both 
square aback, and if she should get a stern board, put 



168 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

the helm hard a weather, should she come too again, 
shiver the topsails, and brail up the spanker, letting 
her drift as before. 



299. To Secure the Skip for Sea. 

Take the departure, give the course, and make 
sai^ beat to quarters, examine the magazine, load, 
shot, and secure the guns, see that all the gear of 
the guns is ready for service and secured, fill the 
shot boxes, rack, and wad nets, get the anchors on 
the bows, and lash them, unbend the cable and buoy- 
ropes, if clear and dry, pay them below. Also, the 
messengers, hawsers, stoppers, nippers and cable 
mats, put in the bucklers, unreeve cat and fish, coil 
them away below. Get chafing mats on the yards, 
and rigging, see the booms and boats secured, 
pumps ready for working, the gratings and tarpau- 
lins ready for putting on. Overhaul the storm stay 
sail gear, see every thing ready for service and stow it 
below again. 



300. To Stow the Anchor for Sea. 

The anchors being catted and fished, clap a stout 
tackle on them and cat head stoppers, pass a good 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 169 

lashing through the ring, and over the cathead ex- 
pend the stopper the same way. Hook the pendant 
tackle to a strop around the shank, weigh the crown 
and bowse the fluke into the bill port by a thwart- 
ship tackle, having another tackle clapt on the end 
of the anchor stock, which is uppermost, getting it 
as close to the side as the stock will permit ; pass 
stout shank lashings also around the stock and cat- 
head, unbend the cable and buoy rope. 

Note. The waist anchors are securely stowed, 
when they are first got on board. 



301. To make Sail when Getting Underweigh. 

Call all hands, loose sails, lay aloft sail loosers, 
man the boom tricing lines, trice up, lay out, loose 
away, clear away the rigging, man the topsail sheets 
and halyards, keep fast the buntlines and leech lines 
of the courses, when ready, let fall and sheet home, 
lay in, lay down, down booms ; when the men are 
off the yards, light up the rigging in the tops, attend 
the braces, hoist away the topsails ; when taut, leech, 
belay the halyards, man the lee braces and attend 
the weather ones. Bear the lee back stays abaft, 
weather ones abreast, and set them up, and rig out 
the outrigger. Overhaul the lifts and trusses, attend 

15 



170 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

the bowlines and brace up, when up, haul taut wea- 
ther braces, lifts and trusses, steady out the bowlines, 



302. To set Top-gallant Sails, Blowing Fresh. 

Point the yards to the wind, and loose the sails, 
sheet home to leeward first and then to windward, 
having a hand to leeward, to light the foot over the 
topmast stay, hoist away, trim the yards, haul the 
bowlines. 

Note. In setting top-gallant sails over single reefed 
topsails, see that the sheets are home square alike. 



303. To set Courses, {Moderate.) 

Man the fore and main tacks and sheets, attend 
the rigging, have hands on the lower yards, to over- 
haul it, haul aboard, check the top bowlines, weather 
lower lifts a little of the lee [main brace, avast the- 
sheets, get the tacks close down, and then haul af. 
the sheets, haul taut the main brace, lifts, trusses, ant 
bowlines. 



304. To set Courses } (Blowing Fresh.) 

Man well the sheets, overhaul the leech lines -and 
the lee buntlines, ease down the lee clew garnet, slack 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 171 

top bowlines, lower lifts, and lee main braces, get the 
tacks close on board, haul aft the sheets, haul taut 
the lee main brace, weather lifts and bowlines, hook 
and haul taut your rolling tackle. 



305. To set the Spanker. 

Top up the boom, overhaul lee topping lifts, attend 
the sheets and weather guy, haul over the lee guy 
and trim the boom, man the outhaul and attend the 
brails and vangs, let go the brails, haul out and trim 
the gaif by the vangs. 



306. To set the Jib. 

Cant the spritsail yard to steady the boom, man 
the halyards and sheet, see the down haul and brails 
clear, take in the slack of the sheet to steady the sail, 
hoist away, and as the sail goes up ease off the sheet 
when taut up, haul aft the sheet. 



307. By the Wind, a man falls overboard. 

Silence fore and aft, hard down the helm, cutaway 
the life buoy, haul up the main sail, lay the main 
yard to the mast, let flow the head sheets, clear away 



172 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

the lee quarter boat, up foresail and top-gallant sails, 
wait for the return of the boat, hoist her up, fill away 
and make sail. 



308. To set a Lower Studding Sail, 

Get the sail athwartships the fore castle, overhaul 
the gear, haul taut the fore brace, topmast studding 
sail boom brace, burton trusses and rolling tackle. 
Man the lower boom topping lifts, forward guy, at- 
tend the after one, rig out and trim the lower boom, 
man the halyards and outhaul, hoist away, break 
stops or haul out the toggle, haul out the tack close, 
hoist the outer Halyards, taut up, then the inner ones, 
trim down the sheet. 

Note. The weather studding sails are always 
set abaft, the lee ones forward, when required to shift 
them from aft forward, send a hand aloft, lower 
away, gather in, and get hold of the outer leach, cant 
the yard, clear, up topmast, or top-gallant studding 
sail. 



309. To take in Top- gallant Sails 

Man top-gallant clewlines, lay aloft and stand by 
to furl the sail, attend the braces, bowlines, sheets, 
and halyards ; round in the weather braces, ease 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 173 

away the lee sheet and halyards, lower away, ease 
away the weather sheet, clew up, haul up the bunt- 
lines, steady the yard, lay out and furl the sail. 



310. To take in a Topmast Studding Sail. 

Man the downhaul, deck sheet, and boom jigger, 
attend the halyards, tack and short sheet, have men 
on the yard to light in the boom, ease away the hal- 
yards and short sheet, haul down the yard to the 
tack block, ease away the tack and haul in the sail 
by the deck sheet and downhaul, rig in the boom, and 
secure it, unhook the burton, and unbend the gear- 



311. To reef Topsails and Courses. 

Call all hands, reef topsails, man the topsail clew- 
lines and buntlines, weather braces and downhaul 
tackles, have hands to attend the halyards, bowlines, 
and lee braces, clear away the bowlines, round in the 
weather braces, ease away the topsail halyards, clew 
down, haul up the buntlines and out reef tackles ; 
haul taut the halyards again. Luff to, shake the top- 
sails, lay aloft topmen, man the boom tricing lines. In 
taking in the first reef the band is hauled well up on 
the yard, the earing passed from forward aft, and the 

forward points should be well taut. The second reef 

15* 



174 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

band comes below the first, and the third below the 
second ; the earings passed in the same manner. 
The close reefed band comes directly under the yard ; 
this earing is passed from aft to forward, and the after 
points are hauled well taut, before knotting, light 
over to windward, take two outer turns with the 
earing, then expend the end through the thimble 
and over the yard ; light over to leeward, pass your 
earing and take care to tie the points clear of the top- 
gallant sheets. In close reefing it is necessary to start 
the sheets, in order to get earings close out. Lay in, 
down booms, lay down from aloft, excepting the men 
stationed to overhaul the reef tackles, and light the 
rigging up. Let go, and overhaul the reef tackles 
and buntlines, lead along the topsail halyards, attend 
the braces and hoist away ; take care not to hoist 
them so taut as to endanger the yards. When up, 
trim the sails, and haul the bowlines, hook and haul 
taut the rolling tackles. 

Haul up the courses, overhaul and hook top bur- 
tons to the reef pendants, and haul them taut, slack- 
ing the leech lines and clew garnets, and haul taut 
the lifts and braces, trusses and rolling tackles. Lay 
aloft lower yard men, man the boom jiggers, 
trice up, lay out and reef. The earings and points 
are passed like those of a topsail, observing to pass 
the latter clear of the topsail sheets. The second 
reef is generally taken with a line ; the points taken 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 175 

out of the sail for that purpose ; the line is cut in 
four pieces, which are used as a lacing ; when reefed, 
lay in, down booms, and lay down from aloft ; un- 
hook the burtons, and set up the courses, ciew up 
and pipe down. 

Note. To reef when going large, luff to so as to 
shake the sail ; to close reef, clew up. (See reef 
lines for topsails.) 



312. To Reef Topsails, in Stays. 

Call all hands to tack ship, send aloft one watch 
of Topmen, and see the remainder properly station- 
ed, ease down the helm and haul over the spanker 
sheet, as she comes too, overhaul the lifts and trusses 
and when hard down, " Helm's a lee," ease off the 
jib, and if necessary the fore sheets, when the leeches 
of the courses shake ; rise tacks and sheets ; over- 
haul, and bear abaft the weather back stays, when 
the wind is about a point on the weather bow, stand 
by the main and mizen topsail halyards, (main sail 
hawl,) let go the main and mizen topsail halyards, 
and take care not to brace them up too much, let the 
men from the clew garnets and braces, haul out the 
reef tackles, and up buntlines, trice up, lay out and 
reef, set up the after breast backstays, and man the 
head braces, when head to wind, brail up the jib, 



176 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 



cant the spritsail yard, bear over the spanker boom, 
and haul aft the jib sheet, as soon as it will take ; 
when she gets sternboard, shift the helm when the 
spanker and mainsail are fall, stand by the fore top- 
sail halyards, (let go and haul) ease away the hal- 
yards, and let the men from the jib brails and fore- 
clew garnets, haul out the reef tackle, and up bunt- 
lines, avast bracing, trice up, lay out and reef, set up 
the forward back stays. As soon as the main and 
mizen topsail are reefed, let the^ men lay in, down 
booms and overhaul the rigging, lead along and man 
the halyards, attend the braces, hoist away and trim 
the topsails by the braces, which will catch her, if 
falling orT, as soon as the fore top sail is reefed, send 
the men down, brace up the fore yard, lead along, 
and man the top sail halyards, hoist and trim the 
sail, trim all sharp, haul the bowlines, haul taut the 
lifts, trusses, and rolling tackles. Clear up and pipe 
down. 



313. To Part a Weather Topsail Brace Reefing. 

Haul the lee reef tackle close out so as to tauten 
the leech, haul forward on the lee top bowline, clear 
itway the weather one, the lee braces and trusses, 
and round in on the weather brace ; when the yard 
is clear of the topmast rigging avast hauling and 
reeve preventer braces immediately. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 



177 



Note. The burton might be hooked from the 
weather yard arm to the after part of the top to wind- 
ward. 



314. To Part a Topsail Parrel 

Haul taut the braces, take a piece of stout rope, 
and pass it around the topmast, and the strops of the 
tye blocks, heaving it taut, pass a new parrel. 



315. To Take in a Close Reefed Topsail. 

Steady well the topsail and lower yards, rounding 
in the weather topsail brace as much as possible, man 
the clewlines and buntlines, attend the sheets and 
bowlines, clew up the lee sheet, and haul up the 
buntline, if to save the yard, haul up to leeward, first 
point the yard to the wind, and steady it again, lay 
out and furl the sail. 

Note. The sail is not clewed down, because when 
a topsail is close reefed the yard is barely clear of 
the cap. 



316. To Take in a Course. 



Steady the yard as securely as possible, man the 



178 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

clew garnets, buntlines, and leech lines, ease away 
the tack and bowlines, haul up to windward, ease 
off the sheet, haul up, get the sail close to the yard 
and furl it. 



317. To Take in a Spanker. 

Man well the brails and weather vang, attend 
the outhaul and lee vang, ease away the outhaul, 
haul over on the weather vang, brail up to leeward, 
ease off the sheet, haul taut the weather brails, pass 
the foot gaskets, steady the gaff and crutch the 
boom. 



318. To Take in a Jib. 

Man the downhaul, attend the halyards and sheet, 
let go the halyards, ease off the sheet handsomely, 
haul down and stow it. • 



319. To Set a Close Reefed Topsail. 

Point the yard to the wind, and brace the lower 
yard a little sharper than the topsail yard ; man the 
sheets, attend the buntlines, and loose the sail, over- 
haul the lee buntline, ease down lee clewlines, and 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 179 

haul home the lee sheet, ease off the weather bunt- 
lline, at the same time slack down the weather clew- 
line, and haul home the weather sheet, hoist the yard 
up clear of the cap, brace up, and haul the bowline, 
steady the lower and topsail yards, with braces and 
rolling tackles. 



320. The Jib Splits. 

Mind the weather helm, haul the sail down, and 
hoist the fore topmast stay sail, hitch the downhaul 
around the body of the sail, also pass stops around 
it, take the end of a rope from the fore castle and 
bend it on to haul in by. Turn out the jib stays, bend 
a line on to the end and unreeve it, haul taut the 
halyards, ease off the downhaul and haul in, get up, 
overhaul, and bend a new one, seize on the sheet, 
bend on the halyards, and downhaul, stop the sail, 
haul out by the downhaul and halyards, reeve the 
jib stay, turn it in, set it up, pass the tack lashing, 
and reeve the brails, set the jib and haul down the 
stay sail. 



321. A Close Reefed Topsail Splits. 

Clew the sail up and steady the yard, cast off some 
of the rope bands, so as to pass stops around the sail 



180 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

to secure it, unbend the sheets, bowlines and lee 
buntlines, unreeve lee clewline and reef tackle, fetch 
the weather buntline round the sail, and make the 
lee earing fast to the buntline, hook a burton to a 
strop around the sail, cast off all the rope bands and 
lower away, ease away the weather earing and lower 
away the sail on deck, stretch the new sail, over- 
haul it, then reef the sail at the foot, commencing at 
the close reef, and taking each of the three lower 
reefs separately, then bight it down and send it aloft 
as ^described before, observing to use the weather 
topsail halyards, reeve and bend the gear, stopping 
the head of the sail to the buntlines, have yard jig- 
gers hooked to bring the sail to the yard, pas;s the 
earings and rope bands, also in the same manner, 
bring the first reef to the yard, cast out the fourth 
reef, haul up the sail, then bring the reef to the yard, 
after which seitthe sail as before. 



322. A Course Splits. 

Haul up the sail, cast off a few rope bands to pass 
stops around it, unbend the leech lines, slablines and 
bowlines, cast off the lee earing and make it fast to 
the lee buntlines, lower away the clue garnets, and 
buntlines, ease off the weather earing, and lower on 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 181 

deck, unbend the buntlines, unlash the tack, sheet 
and. clew garnet blocks, overhaul the new sail, lash 
on the blocks and bend all the gear, pass stops around 
the sail to keep it home, then bring it to the yard, 
with yard jiggers and buntlines as in No. 173 ; when 
the sail is bent, cast off the stops and set it. 



323. To Bend a New Course, before the Old one 

is Unbent. 

Overhaul the new sail athwart the deck, stopper 
the clews of the old one, unreeve all the gear excep 
the clew garnets, bend the gear to the new one, stop 
the head to the buntlines, hook yard and clew jig 
gers, send men on the yard to cast off every other 
rope band, and unreeve the head earings, out of their 
respective strops, making them fast around the yard, 
sway up the new sail, forward of the old one, bring 
jt to the yard, and bend it the same, as if there were 
no other bent, overhaul the rigging and set it, haul 
up the old one, cast off the rope bands and send it 
down by the burtons or top gallant yard rope and 
clew garnets, unreeve the clew garnets, and reeve 
them to the new sail, pass the remainder of the rope 
bands. 

Note. This plan might be of advantage, when in 
chase, whenthe sail has been riddled with shot. In 

16 



182 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

lowering either a topsail, or a course, the top gallant 
yard or mast rope is useful, making it fast round the 
bunt. 



324. To Secure the Guns for a Gale. 

The lower deck guns were secured, when the 
ship first got to sea. The main deck guns should 
be run in and secured in the same manner, then put 
in the upper half ports and port bucklers, particular 
care should be taken not to wood the tompions, as 
the great object of housing guns is to take the strain 
off the side of the ship. 

To secure a carronade, run in and put the hous- 
ing chock in, forward of the gun, haul taut the side 
tackles, and rack the falls, hook the train tackle 
around the breech as before, pass the breast lashing, 
and secure the equipments of the gun. 



325. The Breeching Bolts begin to Draw, 

Reeve hawsers fore and aft, set them well taut, 
lash them to the pomelions of the guns, then frap 
them between every two guns, with stout lashings 
to the fighting bolts. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 183 

326. A Gun Breaks Adrift. 

Chock it with hammocks, and lash it in the best 
manner possible, get to its own port the first oppor- 
tunity, reeve a new breeching, train and side tackles. 



327. To Send down Top Gallant Yards. 

Call all hands down top gallant yards, unhook 
the top gallant tye, hook or lash the jack block to it, 
reeve top gallant yard rope, bend it on to the slings 
of the yard, and two thirds out to leeward, unbend 
all the gear, bend on the tripping line and send it 
down to windward, trice up the jack block, man the 
yard rope, and lee lift, attend the lee braces and 
weather lift, haul in a little of the weather braces, to 
clear the topsail yard, and when all ready, " sway 
away," bousing on the lee lift, and casting off the 
Parrel lashing, at the same time unrig the yard arms, 
lower away and stop the yard amidships on deck, 
stop the gear, sway in, trice down the jack block, 
and round up top gallant yard ropes. 



328. To House Top Gallant Masts. 

Hook top blocks, and reeve the short mast rope, 
hook mast burtons, and man the falls, attend the 



184 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

lanyards of the rigging and stays, slack a few inches, 
sway away and take out the fids, and lower, haul- 
ing down on the back stay, and fore and aft stays, 
when low enough take a turn with the falls, pass 
heel lashings through the fid hole, and around the 
topmast, having old canvass in the wake, stop in the 
rigging, sheepshank the backstays, and take in the 
slack of the fore and aft stays. If the masts are to 
be sent down on deck, the long mast ropes are to be 
rove, and the burton hooked to a lizard, dogged up 
the mast rope, sway up, out fid, and lower as before ; 
bend on and send down a heel rope as a guy, rack 
both parts of the mast rope together, hitch it around 
the top gallant mast head and mast rope, take a turn 
with the mast rope on deck, come up the burton fall, 
unhook it and take off the lizard, lower away, clap- 
ping stops around the mast rope and pole as it goes 
down, stow it amidships, on deck, and round up the 
mast rope. Lash the cylinder and royal rigging to 
the topmast cap, stop it in below, take in the slack of 
the stays, and sheepshank the back stays. 



329. On a Lee Shore, Under Top Gallant Sails, 
Jib, Courses and Spanker, the Wind increases 
to a three reefed Topsail breeze. 

Take in the top gallant sails, jib and spanker, hoist- 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 185 

ing the fore topmast and mizen stay sails at the same 
time. Clew down the fore and mizen topsails, take 
in three reefs and set them. Clew the main down, 
reef and set it. The gradual reduction is made to 
keep way on the ship constantly. 



330. To Tack Ship Under Double Reefed Top- 
sails. 

Call " all hands about ship," and station them pro- 
perly. Watch for a smooth time, ease down the 
helm, haul down the jib, haul aft the spanker sheet, 
as she comes too, "helm's a lee," ease off the fore 
sheet, keeping the tack fast to help her round against 
the sea, when the leeches of the courses lift, rise 
main tack and sheet, overhaul lifts and trusses, and 
bear abaft the breast back stays, the wind nearly 
ahead. " Mainsail haul," set up the after breast back 
stay falls, brace sharp up the after yards, haul the 
bowlines, shift over the jib sheet, cant the spritsail 
yard, run up the jib as soon as it will take, and bear 
over the spanker boom. When she gets sternway 
shift the helm, rise fore tack and sheet, when the 
after sails fill, " let go and haul." Haul forward fore 
tack and fore top bowline, set up the forward breast 
back stays, and if she falls rapidly off, avast bracing 
as she comes to meet her with the helm, brace up, 

16* 



186 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

gather aft, brace the yards, haul taut weather braces, 
lifts, trusses, rolling tackles and bowlines, clear up 
and pipe down. 

Note. The head yards are not braced in. In or- 
der to preserve the ship's headway to enable her to 
pass the direction of the wind in light breezes, and a 
smooth sea, bracing in is an advantage. 



331. Missing Stays, to Club-haul Her. . 

As this is only done on a lee shore, rouse up a 
range of the cable, bend and bitt it, have hands by 
the lee anchor, and others standing by to cut or slip 
the cable, ease down the helm and proceed as in 
tacking, if she makes a stand before bringing the 
wind ahead, she will fall off again, therefore let go 
the anchor, and haul the mainsail, when the main 
tack is down shift the helm, for a sternboard, and 
being sure of the cast, cut or slip the cable and run 
the jib up, as soon as it will take, when full abaft, 
haul the head yards, &c. 

Note. A hawser from one of the lee quarter 
ports, may be bent to the cable or anchor, which be- 
ing boused upon, will act as a spring to bring her 
stern to windward. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 187 

332. To be on a Lee Shore under close reefed Top- 
sails, reefed Courses, and Fore Storm Stay Sail, 
it is necessary to reduce sail. 

A ship in this situation, should have her preventer 
braces, tacks, sheets, and lifts, rove so that the yards 
are well steadied. Take in and furl the close reefed 
topsails, pointing the yards to the wind, endeavour to 
claw off under reefed courses, and fore storm stay 
sail. 

Note. A ship can be much nearer the wind, un- 
der her courses alone, than she can if she has close 
reefed topsails over them, since the latter cannot be 
braced, so as to bring the wind much forward of the 
beam. Another advantage is, that the courses being 
much nearer the centre of gravity, do not bury her 
so much. 



333. A Ship on Shore, what to do. 

Out boats and spare spars, with which construct 
rafts, carry out and place the anchor for heaving off. 
Send down the light spars, yards, and topmasts, rig 
in jib boom, get out all the stores and provisions, and 
place them on the rafts which are anchored by kedges. 
Start all the water, and bend buoy ropes to the guns, 
and heave them overboard ; if the tide falls much 
before the preparations can be made, get shoars out 



188 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

to keep her upright. Break out the hold, lash the 
casks, under the bottom, get out kentledge and stow 
it on the rafts. 

At high water, heave her off the same way she 
came on. Moor her securely, stow the hold and 
weigh the guns. 

Note. It would be advisable to unhang the rud- 
der. 



334. Precautions for Scudding. 

Scudding should be performed under as little sail 
as possible, so that in the event of broaching too, or 
being brought by the lee, she can be more easily re- 
covered. The sails under which ships are generally 
scudded, are a closed reefed topsail, fore sail, and fore 
storm stay sail. The relieving tackles should be 
hooked, and hands stationed by them. A tackle 
hooked to the lee fore tack, would be of service in 
rilling the fore sail. When brought by the lee, the 
yards should be well steadied, and breast back stays 
well rigged out, the braces and bowlines, lifts and 
trusses, rolling tackle, and backstay falls, should be 
clear for bracing around. The clew garnets, clew- 
lines, and buntlines, lead along ready for hauling up 
the sails. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 189 

335. A Ship Broaches too. 

Meet her with the helm, and lee head braces, if 
necessary, shiver the after yards ; should she still 
come too, and the sails taken aback, brace about the 
head yards, and use the helm if necessary, if she 
should get too much sternboard, in falling off, haul 
up the fore sail and pay her off with the fore storm 
stay sail, fill the after yards as soon as possible, to 
gather headway, and when she has fallen off suffi- 
ciently, brace about the head yards, and trim as be- 
fore. 



336. Brought by the Lee. 

If she has headway, which probably will be the 
case, put the helm a-weather, but if she has sternway 
put it a-lee. Man the braces and fore clew garnets, 
brace about the head yards, and keep the others 
barely full ; when before the wind square the head 
yards, and bring her to her course again. If the 
main topsail will not brace about readily, let fly the 
weather sheet and clew up, the wind acting on the 
clew only, will bring the yard round, when the wea- 
ther sheet may be hauled home again. 

Note. A ship might be said to be brought by the 
lee, when struck aback by a change of wind. Use 
the helm for headway or sternway as before, brace 



190 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

round the after yards, and when they are full, the 
head ones. This is the principle of tacking, but is 
not thought as well when scudding in a gale, as the 
ship might get too rapid sternway, which would be 
dangerous in a heavy sea. As the object is to 
preserve the headway, the yards are braced round as 
soon as possible. If scudding under the main topsail 
and it becomes necessary to reduce sail, take in the 
fore topsail, for the main being nearer the centre of 
gravity, has less tendency to bury the ship, and she is 
consequently more easily steered. In scudding under 
main topsail and foresail ; the ship is to be brought 
by the wind. Should she have a tendency to gripe, 
keep the foresail on her, but if otherwise, take in the 
foresail, and set the fore storm stay sail, brace up the 
head yards, then the after ones, watch for a smooth 
time, and ease down the helm, taking care to meet 
her in due season. The reason for bracing up the 
head yards before luffing is, in scudding, the ship 
has a rapid headway, and will mind the helm very 
quickly ; moreover, the sea acting with violence on 
the quarter, will throw her up into the wind, and un- 
less the head yards are braced up so as to prevent 
that, she will be in the same situation as if she had 
broached too. 



337. To Heave the Ship too. 
Having determined from the known quality of the 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 191 

ship, what sails would be best to heave to under — 
bring by the wind as in the last question. If going 
to lay too under a main topsail when by the wind, 
haul up and furl the foresail, down fore storm stay 
sail ; if under the lower staysails, hoist them, taking 
in the fore sail and main topsail at the same time. 
The helm is kept a lee whilst laying too. 

Note. It is best to bring by the wind under the 
square sails, as the ship is more under command than 
she would be if they were furled. 



338. To Veer Ship, under close reefed Main Top- 
sail and Storm Stay Sails. 

Call ail hands " veer ship," and station them, have 
lifts, trusses, and rolling tackles attended, so that the 
yard and top- mast may be well supported in the 
heavy rolling which they are likely to experience. 
Haul down the mizen storm-stay sail and when she 
falls off, up helm, ease off' the main storm stay-sail 
sheet, and brace in the main yard and cross jack- 
yard, at the same time taking care to keep the main 
top sail full, to preserve the head way, and to keep 
her a-head of the sea, also to keep it from splitting, 
when the wind is on the quarter, haul down the 
main storm staysail, and shift over the sheet, when 
before the wind, right the helm and square the head 
yards, shift over the fore storm staysail sheet, watch 



102 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

for a smooth time to bring her to, ease down the 
helm, and hoist the mizen storm staysail when the 
wind is on the quarter brace up the yards, hoist the 
main storm staysail, haul aft the fore storm stay sail 
sheet, meet her with the helm, trim the sails and 
haul the main top bowline. 



339. To Veer under a Mainsail. 

Make fast a hawser to the slings of the main yard, 
take it down forward of the sail, haul it well taut and 
belay it to the topsail sheet bitts. Call all hands and 
station them as in the last case, take advantage of her 
falling off to put the helm up. Ease off the main 
sheet, and gather in the lee tack, using the yards as 
in ordinary cases. Should she not go off, send down 
the cross jack yard, and mizen topsail yard, house 
the topmast and get a drag over the lee quarter, after 
which proceed as before, in bracing the yards, and 
bring by the wind. 



340. To Veer under Bare Poles. 

Send down the after yards and mizen topmast, get 
a span on the mizen topmast, and bend a hawser to 
it in board. Send men in the weather fore rigging 
with tarpaulins, up helm and make use of the yards 



young sailor's assistant. 193 

as usual, If she should not go off, cut away the mizen 
mast as a last resort, and veer away the hawser and 
use the mizen top-mast as a drag to assist in wearing. 



341. To Cut away the Masts. 

Clear away all the running rigging attached to the 
mast, cut away the lanyards of the lee rigging, then 
the lanyards of the stays and weather rigging. 



342. Laying Too under Lower Stay Sails, Veer 

Ship. 

If it does not blow too fresh, the close reefed main 
topsail may be set, as some lofty sail is necessary, to 
prevent the ship from being pooped ; then proceed 
as in No. 340. If she should not go off, clap a lashing 
round the bunt of the foresail, and set the weather 
goose wing. Should she still not go off, send down 
the after yards and mizen topmast, making a drag of 
them. If they have no effect, cut away the mizen 
mast. 



343. Laying' Too, a Sail is Discovered Ahead, 
and Close on Board. 

To prevent both ships from coming in contact, 

17 



194 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

which would be the destruction of both, extraordi- 
nary measures must be resorted to. When laying 
too, a ship is not under the immediate command of 
the helm, and as there would Jbe great danger of, a 
collision in case the sails were so arranged as to veer, 
because she would immediately shoot ahead. There- 
fore the yards are braced immediately for box-haul- 
ing, and the dangerous experiment must be tried, in 
order to avoid the still more dangerous consequences 
of getting foul of each other. 

Note. Under all sail and close hauled, if a shoal 
or rock is discovered suddenly ahead, box-haul her ; 
this must be done by putting the helm hard a lee at 
once, and bracing the yards around as soon as pos- 
sible, so as to deaden the headway. But if a sail is 
made close ahead, it is a general custom among sai- 
lors, for the ship on the larboard tack to give way, 
the ship on the larboard tack consequently clapping 
the helm up, and the one on the starboard tack hard 
down, thereby running clear of each other. Remem- 
ber this. 



344. The Fore mast is Carried Away. 

Hard up the helm, brace in the after yards, hoist 
the main stay sail, take in after sail, and endeavour 
to get her before the wind ; if successful, keep her 
so, by veering- a range of cable over the stern and 



'YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 195 

lashing it amidships ; if not, which is more likely to 
be the case, and should carry away the main topmast 
also, lay her too under the main stay sail. If the 
main topmast should stand, clew up the main topsail 
immediately, get the breast back stays over the top- 
sail yard, and set them up as far forward as possible, 
by means of tackles. Bend hawsers on the wreck, 
clear it away, especially the lanyards of the lee rig- 
ging, so as to preserve the channels and chain bolts, 
and endeavour to haul it aboard. Send down the 
after yards and spars, and save as much of the wreck 
as possible. Rig a jury fore mast, fitting spars and 
sails to the best advantage ; when the jury mast is 
rigged, reeve a main topmast stay, of a hawser, and 
take the breast back stays aft again, after which cut 
clear of the wreck. 



345. To rig a Jury Mast. 

Take a spare spar, the largest in board, a main 
topmast for instance, and launch the head over the 
night heads, the heel resting against the stump of the 
old mast, put on crosstrees and bolsters, fit the rig- 
ging and stays from hawsers, and hook a couple of 
tackles from the jury mast head, which take to the 
side and haul taut, hook another, which take well aft, 
lash the heel to the stump to prevent slipping, and 
raise the mast with the after purchase, tending the 



196 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

stays and pendant tackles, when up, reeve the lan- 
yards, set up the rigging and stays, cleet and lash the 
heel securely, ship the cap, send up a top-gallant 
mast for a topmast, fit a topsail yard for a lower yard, 
and a top-gallant yard for a topsail yard. 



346. The Main mast is Carried Away, 

Hard up the helm, secure the mizen topmast if it 
still stands, clear the wreck, save as much as possible 
and rig a jury main mast. 



347. The Bowsprit is Carried Away, 

Hard up the helm, shiver the after yards, take in 
after sail, and get the ship before the wind ; take the 
fore topmast breast back stays forward over the top- 
sail yard, hook the pendant tackles, and set them up 
to the cat heads, unreeve the main topmast and spring 
stays, and set them up to the fore topsail sheet bitts, 
hitch a hawser to the fore topmast head, take this in 
through one of the hawse holes, and set it up on the 
gun deck. While this is performing, let some hands 
be reducing sail, sending down top-gallant yards and 
masts if they are aloft, and clearing the wreck, rig a 
jury bowsprit of a spare main topmast or a jib boom. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT.' 197 

348. A Topmast is Carried Away. 

Get the ship before the wind immediately, and re- 
duce sail, hook the top blocks and reeve hawsers 
through them, bend the lee one to the topsail yard, 
which is probably hanging to leeward of the topmast 
with the wreck, clew up the topsail if practicable, 
and cut the parrel if it can be got at. The yard now 
hangs clear of the topmast, bend the weather hawser 
to the wreck of the topmast, have guys from the wea- 
ther side of the deck, clear away the lanyards of the 
rigging and stays, also the rigging leading to the top- 
mast head, and send it down on deck. Hook the 
yard tackles, slack the braces and trusses, bouse the 
lower yards forward and send down the stump, get 
the topsail yard down in the lee gangway and repair 
its damages, while the spare topmast is gut aloft, and 
secured by the old rigging. Send aloft the yard, set 
the topsails, and bring her to her course again. 



349. The Jib Boom is Carried Away. 

Mind the weather helm, hoist the fore topmast stay 
sail, and get in the wreck by the fore pendant tackles 
hooked to the fore stay, reeve a heel rope and get in 
the stu rip, point another boom, and rig it with the 
old rigging if sound, if not, with spare ropes or haw- 
sers. 

17* 



198 HEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

350. The Foremast and Bowsprit Carried Away. 

Proceed as in No. 347, the remarks being applied 
to the present case. Lay too under the main stay 
sail to leeward of the wreck and repair damages on 
board in the best manner possible : rig a jury fore- 
mast and bowsprit, and then cut clear, having saved 
as many spars, sails, and as much rigging as pos- 
sible. If the ship lays easily by the wreck, it would 
probably be well to ride by it, until the gale abates. 
If it is absolutely necessary to veer, it might be done 
as in No. 344, with the assistance of the mainsail, 
making use of the wreck as a drag, by taking the 
hawser as a spring to the quarter. 



351. The Bowsprit is Sprung. 

Up helm, shiver the after yards, take in after sail, 
and get the ship before the wind, haul down the 
head sails, come up the main topmast stays, and set 
them up on deck, get the fore topmast breast back- 
stays forward, hook the fore pendant tackles, and set 
them up to the cat head. Come up all the head 
stays, and rig in the head booms. Send down upper 
yards and masts, take the fore topmast stays through 
the hawse holes and set them up. 

Note. All strain being now off the bowsprit, fish 
it with the regular fishes, if there are none on board, 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 199 

use the jib boom, if thought sufficiently strong to 
bear the strain . of the head stays, get them in their 
proper plftes, but if not, get stays out merely to make 
sail. 



352. The Foremast is Sprung Near the Hounds. 

Get the ship before the wind immediately, reduce 
sail and get all strain off the foremast, secure the 
main topmast as in No. 344, send down top gallant 
yards and masts, hook the jeers and settle the fore 
yard, hook top blocks, reeve top pendants, and house 
the topmasts allowing the heel to come considerably 
below the defect, fish the foremast with side fishes 
and the heel of the topmast, wedging the lashings. 
Clap a lashing around the doublings of the mast 
head, having chocks between, keep the pendant 
tackles rove, turn in the rigging afresh, and set it up, 
wedge the topmast in the cap, and sway the fore 
yard, close up to the heel of the topmast, reef the 
head sails to diminish the strain, if required. 



353. A Topmast is Sprung Near the Lower Cap. 

Get the ship before the wind and reduce sail. If 
a spare topmast is not to be had, the old one may be 
housed far enough to allow the spring to come some 



200 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

feet below the cap, setting the lower yard as in the 
last case, fit a large chock between the topmast and 
lower mast head, and clap stout lashings around 
above and below the defect part, wedging them well, 
reef the fore sail so that it can be set with the yard 
in its present place, and also the topsail, to lessen the 
strain on the weak spar. 

Note. Sheepshank the rigging if required, before 
setting up. 

354. To Send Aloft a Topmast and a Heavy. 

tSea on. 

After the topmast is pointed and rigged, hook the 
burtons to stout strops at the rim of the top on each 
side, hitch hawsers to the mast head leading one 
through a large block at the fore top mast head, and 
another aft, through one at the mizen. Haul the 
burtons and hawsers taut. Sway aloft the topmast, 
slacking up as it goes aloft, when ridded, steady the 
topmast until the rigging and stays are set up. 



355. The Gammoning Carried Away, 

Proceed as in No. 347, until all strain is off the 
bowsprit, bolt a stout chock on the bowsprit and pass 
the end of the messenger out of a hawse hole, over 
the chock in through the other hawse hole and bitt 



youn© sailor's assistant. 201 

it, take the other- end to the capstern. and get the 
bowsprit well down in its bed by the messenger and 
bob stays, come up the old gammoning and pass a 
new one. 



356. A Lower Cap Splits. 

Take all sail off the mast, pass a stout lashing 
around the topmast, and lower mast head, which 
wedge, after which woold, and wedge the cap. 



357. The Trussle Trees are Sprung. 

Get the ship before the wind, take all sail off the 
mast, send down top gallant yards and masts, housing 
the others, hook the top blocks, reeve top pendants, 
hook top tackles, and bouse them well taut, taking 
all strain off the fid, pass several stout lashings 
around the heel of the topmast and lower mast head, 
cleating them to prevent them slipping, make sail, as 
the mast will bear. 



358. A Lower Yard is Carried away in the Slings. 

If the foreyard. Get the ship before the wind, haul 
up the foresail, clew up the topsail, take in all the 



202 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

sail on the mizen mast, unreeve 'the fore top sail 
sheets and board them on deck, bring her on your 
course" again, and haul the bowlines. 

If a main yard, keep on the course, haul up the 
main sail, clew up the topsail, unreeve the sheets, 
board them on deck, and haul the bowlines well out, 
having proceeded thus far, get stout strops around 
the inner quarter of the yard, and hook the pendant 
tackles to bolts in the lower cap, and these strops, if 
the pendant tackles are not at hand, use the burtons. 

Lash the jeer blocks, reeve the jeers, and send the 
yard down by the jeers, lifts and pendant tackles, fish 
the lower yards immediately if it can be done, if it 
cannot, rig a topsail yard for a lower yard. 



359. A Topsail Yard is Carried Away. 

If it is the fore, reduce after sail, mind the weather 
helm, and keep the ship on her course. If it is the 
main stand on, then clew up the sail, unbend it, and 
get it into the top in the best manner possible, get a 
strop round the topmast head, above the eyes of the 
rigging, to which hook a large single block, and 
reeve a hawser through it. If the yard is completely 
broken off, bend the hawser which is not secured by 
the parrel, bend on guys and send it down, then 
send down the other piece. If it still remains to- 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 203 

gether, bend on the slings, stop out to leeward, have 
a tripping line and rolling ropes, and get it fore and 
aft on deck, take off all the old rigging, which put 
on to the spare yard in the chains, then bend on the 
hawser, sway aloft and cross it as in fitting the ship 
out, have rolling ropes around it as it goes aloft, bend 
the topsail and set it. 



360. The Ship leaks Faster than the- Pumps can 

free her. 

Find out where the leak is, thrum an old sail very 
thickly, and some stout ropes attached to each leech, 
make it up, take it under the bowsprit, and get the 
ropes on their respective sides, heave the ship too, 
when her headway eases, drop the sail overboard, 
after it has sunk beneath the keel, break the stops, 
haul aft on the ropes, attached to each clew, when 
the body of the sail is over the leak, haul well taut 
all the ropes attached to the leeches and the head 
which will prevent the sail from going aft, when 
going ahead, make sail and continue pumping. 



361. The Pumps are Choked. 
Hoist them out and clear them. 



204 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

362. A Shot gets loose in a Gun secured for a 

Gale, 

Prick the cartridge well down and pour vinegar 
enough into the touch hole to drown it. 



363. To Throw a Lower Deck Gun Overboard. 

Fit a chock in the port sill, and slip a strop over 
the pomillion of the gun, to which from the housing 
bolt, hook a stout tackle, unlash the muzzle, heave 
up the breech, and put in the bed and coin, unreeve 
the breeching, throw back the cap squares, and 
place capstern bars under the breech to ease it, and 
prevent the gun from slipping back into' the carriage 
again, man the side and port tackles, watch the roll, 
trice up the port briskly, run out and throw the gun 
clear of the carriage, by the breech tackles and cap- 
stern bars, shut in the port immediately. 



364. To turn Reefs out of the Topsails and 

Courses. 

Hook the burtons to the reef pendants, and set 
taut the lower lifts, ease off the bowlines, rise a little 
of the tacks and sheets of the courses, and settle a 
few feet of the topsail halyards, haul taut the reef 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 205 

tackles and buntlines, and if necessary, round in a 
little of the weather braces to clear the points of the 
lee rigging, commence casting off the points at the 
bunt, taking care to leave none tied, and turning one 
reef out at a time, ease away both earings together, 
overhaul the rigging ; get the tacks on board, sheet 
home, hoist the topsails up to a taut leech, out bow- 
lines and make sail. 



365. The Rudder is carried away y to Jit Another, 

Man the braces immediately, take in after sails 
and let the ship run a little free, rouse up a cable, 
clove hitch a hawser over the cable, and then pay it 
overboard, veer away about twenty fathoms and lash 
it amidships on the taifrail, lead the ends of the 
hawser through large blocks lashed to the quarters, 
and clap tackles on to them, steer the ship with this 
contrivance, until a rudder can be constructed by 
captain Edward Packenham's method, (see plate.) 

Take a spare topmast, cut it the length of the rud- 
der, enlarge the fid hole to receive the tiller if not 
already large enough, take a spare cap and cut away 
the after part, so as to fit the stern post at the waters 
edge, or a little below, pass the topmast through the 
round hole in the cap, take a spare jib boom and cut 
it in two, the pieces are to be bolted on abaft the 

18 



206 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

topmast after squaring the edges, which will come 
in contact with each other, and cutting a score in 
the forward part of the jib boom, next to the topmast, 
to allow the cap to have room to play in, plank the 
whole over with stout oak plank, and bolt in a fish 
abaft all, drive an eye bolt into the heel of the top- 
mast (now the head of the rudder,) and have kent- 
ledge attached to the other end to sink it. Take an 
anchor stock, and square two of the edges, cut away 
a circular score in each for them to join together, 
around the topmast below the squares, and thus 
serve as an upper gudgeon, drive the anchor stock 
hoops on the rudder head to prevent splitting. Place 
the rudder on a stage near the tarTrail, pass a couple 
of hawsers aft through the hawse holes, and secure 
them to the heel of the rudder, have tackles on their 
inner ends, have two more hawsers or parts of haw- 
sers passed from forward aft, under every thing, one 
each side, and clinch them to the quarter eye bolts 
in the cap, have a pendant round as. described in 
No. 172, launch overboard and rouse up on the head 
rope, heave in upon the hawsers, and bring the rud- 
der to the stern post perpendicularly; secure the cap 
to the stern post and the anchor stock, around the 
rudder head, ship the tiller, reeve the wheel ropes, 
and rouse in the cable. The kent-ledge may re- 
main to keep the rudder perpendicular or may be 
taken off. 



L 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 207 

366. A Ship on Fire. 

Hard up the helm, haul up the courses, up span, 
ker, get the ship before the wind, and reduce sail to 
topsails, beat to quarters, close all the ports, muster 
the men at their stations, call away the fireman, 
under the charge of their proper officers, let a part fill 
the engine and wet the sails, while the other part 
finds out where the fire is, and endeavour to extin- 
guish it if possible; extinguish it with bedding, put- 
ting over the gratings and tarpaulins. The gunner 
and his mates should be in the magazine, ready to 
drown the powder at a moment's notice. Let the 
carpenters rig and fetch the pumps, and the spar 
deck divisions, clear away the boats, equip them and 
get them ready for hoisting out. In the above case 
the fire is supposed to be below, and the helm is put 
up because wind is less felt, the ports are shut in, 
and tarpaulins put on, as they would afford air to 
the fire, and the courses hauled up, because they 
strike a current of air down the hatchways, and also 
liable to catch. If the fire is on dezk and forward, 
keep before the wind, if aft, haul close on a wind. 



367. A Ship on Her Beam Ends. 

When the severity of the squall is first felt, hard 
up the helm and let fly every thing, but if she goes 



208 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

on her beam ends, before she can be got off sufficient- 
ly to diminish the effects of the wind, the best way 
will be to cut away the mizen mast, before the head- 
way ceases, which falling over the lee quarter, will 
act as a drag to pay her off, should she not right 
when before the wind, if there is anchorage, and the 
cable is bent, cut away the lee anchor, which will 
bring her around, and catch the sails aback, or if 
there is not anchorage, get the drag to the lee bow 
by means of a spring and rouse in, the wind acting 
on the flat deck, and underside of the sails, will pro- 
bably right her. As a last resort, cut away the masts, 
great decision and rapidity of execution is necessary, 
as the ship must go down, a short time after she 
goes over. 



368. Wind free, all Sail set, struck by a Squall. 

Up helm, let fly the main sheet, spanker outhaul j 
staysail sheets, and halyards, royal and top gallant 
studding sail halyards, royal and top gallant sheets, 
and halyards, haul up the main sail, brail up the 
spanker, down staysails and order the topmen to 
haul in the studding sails and stow them. When 
before the wind right the helm, clew down the top- 
sails, haul up the buntlines, and out reef tackles, and 
reef if necessary. Clear up the decks as fast as pos- 
sible. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 209 

Note. In ordinary cases, sheets and tacks should 
be eased off, for if they should get foul when run- 
ning through their blocks fast. Spars might be en- 
dangered, but when struck by a severe squall, the 
effect of the sails must be diminished as soon as pos- 
sible to save the masts and prevent her from going 
over. 



369. Struck by a Squall on a Lee Shore, 

If sail cannot be reduced, luff too and shake her, 
fill away again, gather head way and luff again. 



370. Struck by a Squall under whole Topsails 
and. Courses. 

Up helm, let fly main sheet spanker outhaul and 
lee topsail sheets, haul up the main sail, brail up the 
spanker, clew up the topsails to leeward, then to 
windward, and let go the halyards, right the helm 
and reef if necessary. 



371. On a Windy under whole Topsails, part the 
weather Main Topsail Brace, 

Haul up the main sail, let go the main brace, haul 

18* 



210 



KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 



forward on the lee main top bowline, and aft on the 
weather main brace, luff too and when the main top- 
sail shivers, clew it down, haul up the buntlines,out 
reef tackles and steady the yard by the bowlines, un- 
til a new brace can be rove. A burton might be 
hooked as mentioned before, to steady the yard. 



372. The Jib Downhaul parts. 

Untoggle the fore top gallant bowlines and knot 
them together above the first hank, between the stay 
and the luff and the jib. 



373. To Chase. 

A vessel that chases another should have the ad- 
vantage in point of sailing, because if the ship chased 
is as good a sailer as the chaser, the latter never can 
come up to her if she manoeuvred equally as well. 
In order to determine, whether your ship sails faster 
than your adversary, get upon the same tack under 
the same sail, and keep upon the same course with 
her. Set her exactly with a compass and if your ship 
sails best, the sail will soon draw a point more aft, if 
she has the advantage, she will in a short time draw 
more forward, and if both sail equally well, she will 
remain at the same point. 



young sailor's assistant. 211 

374. To Chase to windward. 

To chase to windward, run upon the same course 
with the enemy, until he is brought perpendicularly 
to the course, when tack and continue the second 
board, until he is again brought perpendicularly to 
the same course, always continue this manouvre by 
tacking every time the chase is abeam on either 
board, and she will be come up with in the shortest 
method, by your superiority of sailing. Should the 
chase pass the point, when the chase bears abeam, 
he must go about with all despatch. 

Note. The chase goes about as soon as the chase 
is exactly abeam, because at that time the distance 
between them is the least possible upon the different 
boards they hold. 



375. Observations for the Ship to windward, 
which is Chased. 

The weather ship will always be joined, since it 
is granted that she does not sail as well as the pur- 
suer, it will be then to her advantage,, to keep con- 
stantly on the same tack, without losing time to 
heave about, for tacking cannot be so favourable to 
her as to her adversary, whose sailing is superior. 

If the chaser mistakingly stands on and tacks in 



212 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

the wake of the chase, the best course for the latter 
to pursue is, to heave about and pass to windward of 
him on the other tack, unless you suppose your ves- 
sel would have a superiority in going large, for if the 
chaser persists in tacking, in the wake of the other 
ship, the chase will be much prolonged. 



376. To Chase to Leeioard. 

N If the chaser keeps away, to cut the chase off, and 
keeps continually on that course they will at last 
come together, where the two courses intersect, this 
will be exactly executed by the ship in chase, if in 
the course she has taken, she keeps the chase con- 
tinually upon the same degree of the compass, as at 
the beginning of the pursuit. This principle applies 
equally to all the courses which the retreating 
ship pursues, for if overtaken, it can only be accom- 
plished by keeping in a straight line, if the chase 
takes another course, than that which keeps the two 
ships upon the same point. These are the only con- 
siderations to be made, and they may be corrected 
by observing the bearings by an azimuth compass. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 213 

377. To Windward of an Enemy within pistol 
shot, the Weather Main Rigging is shot away, 
both ships with main topsails to the mast. 

Up helm, fill away and run the enemy on board, 
before she gets headway to prevent it. 



378. Wind on the Quarter, all sail set, bring by 
under double reefed topsails. 

Reduce sail regularly and clew down the topsails? 
luff too enough to reef, hoist the topsails and haul 
close on a wind, 



379. Wind on the Quarter, all sail set, bring too 
on the other tack, under double reefed topsails. 

Reduce sail to topsails, station the crew forward? 
with one watch of topmen aloft to reef; brail up the 
spanker, up helm, brace in, and when before the 
wind, clew down the topsails, haul out reef tackles 
and up buntlines, let the men-lay out and reef; wind 
on the quarter, brace up cross jack yard, and haul 
out the spanker, as she comes too, brace up the fore 
yard, and meet her with the helm and jib sheet, when 
coming too, a good opportunity will be offered for 



214 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

reefing ; when reefed, hoist away the topsails, letting 
the main go up aback, the others full. 

Having a dismasted frigate in tow, to heave too. 

Make fast the stream cable to the main mast of the 
prize, and take it in at the weather gangway, clinch- 
ing it around the main mast: make fast a stout haw- 
ser as a spring, and snatch it to a block lashed amid- 
ships on the taffrail, so that the prize may either ride 
on the weather bow, or be roused astern. In case of 
veering rouse in upon the spring, and the manoeuvre 
will be performed with more certainty. After it is 
excuted, the tow rope must be shifted to the opposite 
gangway, by means of a spring. 



380. How to get the Anchor off the Bows. 

Hook the fore pendant tackle, single the shank 
painters, and set them taut with the pendant tackles, 
come up the shank lashings, put the shoes between 
the bills and bows, by capstan bars, and lower them 
by the shank painters, as far as necessary. Single 
and set taut cat head stoppers, and then unlash the 
rings. 



381. To Anchor, head' to wind, wind free. 
See that the officers and men are at their stations? 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. « 215 

and the strictest silence preserved as the ship nears 
her berth ; take in all the studding sails, get the bur- 
tons off the yards and the jiggers off the top-gallant 
yards. Send the booms and sails down from aloft, 
man the fore clue garnets, buntlines, and leech lines,, 
the mainsail is hauled up, as the ship is going free # 
Topgallant and royal clewlines, "lay aloft," and 
stand by to furl the sails snug, and square the yards 
by the lifts and braces, have hands by the fore tack 
and sheet, top-gallant and royal sheets, halyards, 
weather braces and bowlines, up foresail, in top-gal- 
lant sails and royals, furl the sails snug, and square 
the yards by the lifts and braces, hauling taut the 
halyards. Man the topsail clew lines and buntlines, 
weather braces, jib downhaul and spanker outhaul, 
attend the sheets, halyards and spanker brails, ease 
down the helm, haul down the jib, haul out the 
spanker, and when the topsail lifts, clear away the 
sheets, and clew them up, then let go the halyards, 
clew down and square away the yards immediately, 
haul aft the spanker sheet, and when the headway 
ceases, stream the buoy, stand clear of the cable, when 
she begins to go astern, let go the anchor, brail up 
the spanker, crotch the boom, haul taut the guys, 
light too the cable as fast as she will take it, until a 
sufficient scope is out, when stopper. Furl sails, haul 
taut and stop in the rigging, send the boat's crews aft 



216 KEDGE ANCHORj OR 

to lower the boats down, let the boatswain go ahead 
to square the yards, and clear up the decks. 

Note. If going to moor, veer out, double the moor- 
ing scope, and then let go the other anchor, now furl 
sails and heave in. 



382. To Anchor on a Lee Shore. 

The ship being on a lee shore, and no room to 
veer, recourse must be had to letting go all the an- 
chors. For this purpose all the cables are bent and 
ranged, and all the anchors got ready for letting go ; 
the weather sheet is bitted to the forward bitts, and 
the weather bower to the after bitts to windward, the 
lee bower to the forward bitts, and the lee sheet to 
the after ones to leeward. No buoy rope is bent ex- 
cept to the weather sheet, the weather sheet is backed 
by the stream, and the other anchors with kedges, 
see all the tiers clear, get the ship under storm stay 
sails, and furl all the square sails, hook the yard 
tackles, get the lower yards forward and house top- 
masts, when all ready, keep her a little off to get head- 
way. Let go the weather sheet and stream anchor 
and veer away, then the weather bower and kedge, 
down helm, haul down fore and main storm stay 
sails, and the drift to leeward will carry her to the 
berth of the last anchor ; which let go, haul down the 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 217 

mizen storm stay sail, and veer away an equal scope 
on all four cables, observe that they will bear an equal 
strain, and veer to a long scope, reserving sufficient 
to freshen the nip with. See that the cables are well 
rounded, and watch them carefully. If she should 
drag, sling the guns with the stoutest spare rigging 
on board, having a round turn around all these 
cables, and heave them over ; if she should still drag, 
cut away the masts, and if there is no possibility of 
preventing her from going on shore, take a stout 
spring to one of the quarters, slip the cables, let her 
veer round and go on shore end on. 

Note. In weighing these anchors, bring too. first 
on the cable which has got the least scope out, taking 
in the slack of the others with deck tackles. 



383. Scudding under a Foresail, to come to an 

Anchor. 

Get both bowers ready for letting go, haul up the 

foresail, making a due allowance for headway, and 

run in under bare poles ; when near the berth, down 

helm and haul out the spanker and aft mizen storm 

stay sail sheet, when by the wind, let go the weather 

anchor, and veer away briskly, when head to wind, 

let go the lee anchor, and haul down the stay sail, 

veer too and bring an equal strain on both cables, if 

necessary, let go more anchors. 

19 



218 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

384. To make a Flying Moor. 

Make all necessary preparations for coming too, 
overhaul and bitt a double range of the weather cable* 
and bitt the lee one at the range to which she is to be 
moored. When approaching the anchorage, reduce 
sail to topsails, jib, and spanker, if moderate, but if 
fresh, to jib and spanker only. When near the berth 
of the first anchor luff too, stream the buoy, and when 
the headway has nearly ceased, let go the weather 
anchor, up helm, stand on and veer away roundly, 
to prevent the range from checking her, when the 
full range is nearly out, hard down the helm, down 
jib, clew up the topsails and out spanker ; when the 
headway ceases, right the helm, up spanker and let 
her lay the range out taut, when taut let go the lee 
anchor, furl sails, bring too on the weather cable, 
veering away on the lee one, and heave in to the 
moorings. Moor taut to allow for veering, clap on 
service and veer it, square the yards, haul taut and 
stop in the rigging, and clear up the decks. 



385. To Moor with a Large Scope of Chain. 

Shackle the ends of both chains together, and veer 
away nearly the whole of the two cables, Jhen let go 
the anchor, bring too on the first cable, heave in, veer- 
ing away on the other ; when in to the moorings, clap 
on rounding, veer, stopper and unshackle the chains. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 219 

386. Blowing Fresh in Port. 

Range the cables, see the anchor clear and an an- 
chor watch set, have leadsmen in the chains, send 
down the upper yards if not already down, house 
top-gallant masts, and point the yards to the wind. 



387. Send down Loiver Yards. 

Send aloft the jeer blocks, lash them and reeve the 
jeers, see the gear of the courses clear, trusses unrove 
and lifts clear for unreeving, hook the yard tackles 
and take them forward, heave taut the jeers, unreeve 
the lanyard of the slings, attend the braces and yard 
tackles, lower away by the jeers and lifts, when down 
make all fast. 



388. To house Topmasts. 

Hook top blocks, reeve pendants and falls, see the 
rigging clear that leads to the topmast heads, man 
the top tackle falls, slack the lanyards of the rigging, 
stays, and backstays ; sway up, out fid, lower away 
and haul down on the rigging, when low enough, pass 
heel lashings around the lower masts, having canvass 
in the wake, haul taut the rigging and stays, sheep- 
shank the backstays, haul taut the rigging and make 
all snug. 



220 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

Note. The topmast may be housed with the lower 
yards aloft, by taking the yard tackles forward and 
bowsing upon them, slacking the braces and trusses. 



389. To Back a Bower by a Stream. 

Bend the stream cable to the flukes of the bower 
anchor, observing to let go the stream first, and when 
the cable is taut let go the bower. If the bower is 
already down and dragging, form a clinch with the 
stream around the cable, and let her drag until she 
brings the stream ahead. 



390. To Sweep for an Anchor. 

Make use of some long stout running rigging, 
middle it, attach some sinker to the middle, also along 
the bight to confine it to the bottom. Coil it away in 
two boats, and pull to windward of where the anchor 
is supposed to lie, then pull in an opposite direction, 
veering away on the bight from both boats, now pull 
in the direction of the anchor, and when the bight 
catches, cross the boats and get a round turn in the 
rope, make a running bowline on the end of a hawser 
around the rope and slip it down, when fast, weigh 
with the launch. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 221 



EXPLANATION OF SEA TERMS. 



Aback. — A Sail is a-back when its forward sur- 
face is acted upon by the wind. 

Abaft. — The hinder Part of a Ship — Behind — 
thus abaft the Foremast, means any thing nearer 
to the Stern than the Foremast. 

A-board. — In the Ship — as the Cargo is a-board. 
A Ship is said to fall a-board, when she runs foul 
of another. To get a-board the Main Tack, is to 
bring the Clew of the Mainsail down to the Chess- 
tree. 

About. — A Ship is said to be going about, when 
in the Act of Tacking ; the Order for which is 
" ready about there /" 

A-breast. — Opposite to. 

A-drift. — Broken loose from the Moorings. 

A-float.— Swimming — not touching the Bottom. 

Afore. — That Part of the Ship nearest to the Stem, 
or Head. 

Aft. — Behind — as "Stand further aft" stand 
nearer to the Stern. 

After.— Hmder — as the after Ports — those Ports 
nearest the Stern. — After Sails, of ter Hatchway, fyc. 



222 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

A-ground. — Not having Water enough to float the 
Ship, which rests on the Ground. 

A-head. — Before the Ship. 

A-lee. — The Helm is a-lee when the Tiller is put 
to the lee Side. Hard a-lee, when it is put as far as 
it will go. 

All in the Wind. — i. e. when the Wind blows on 
the Leeches, or outward Extremities of the Sails, 
and causes them to shake. 

All hands, hoy ! — The word given by the Boat- 
swain and his Mates at the Hatchways, to assemble 
the Ship's Company. 

A-loft. — Up above. In the Rigging. On the 
Yards. At the Mast Head, &c. 

Alongside. — Close to the Ship. 

Amidships. — In the Middle of the Ship. The 
Helm is amidships, when the Tiller is not put 
over either to one Side or the other. 

To Anchor. — To let the Anchor fall over-board, 
that it may hold the ship. 

To foul the Anchor. — To let the Cable be twisted 
round the upper Fluke, (fee. 

To drag the Anchor. — When the Ship pulls it 
with her, from the violence of the Wind. 

Anchorage. — Ground fit to anchor in. 
The Anchor is a Cock Bill. — i. e. it is hanging 
by the Stopper at the Cat Head. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 223 

The Anchor is a-peak. — i. e. near to the Ship : 
thus at different Distances it is called a long- Peak, 
a stay Peak, a short Peak. 

The Anchor is a-vjeigh or a-trip. — i. e. loosened 
from the Ground by heaving in the Cable. 

The Anchor is backed. — i. e. another Anchor is 
placed at a certain distance before it, and attached to 
it by the Cable of the former being fastened to it, 
which fixes it firmly in the Ground. 

The Anchor is catted. — i. e. drawn up to the Cat- 
head. 

The Anchor is fished.— i. e. its inner Arm is 
drawn up by the Fish Pendant. 

To weigh the Anchor. — To heave it up by the 
Capstern or Windlass. 

The Sheet Anchor. — is of the same Size and 
weight as the two Bower Anchors and the Spare An- 
chor ; it is a resource, and dependence, should either 
of the Bowers part, for which purpose the Cable is 
always kept ready bent with a long Range, that it 
may be let go on an Emergency. 

Best Bower or Small Bower Anchors. — Are the 
two Anchors which are stowed the furthest forward, 
or near the Bows. 

The Stream Anchor.— \s used to bring the ship 
up with occasionally, or to steady a Ship wnen she 
comes to a temporary Mooring. 

The Kedge Anchor.— The smallest of the An- 



224 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

chors, to which a Hawser or Cablet is generally 
bent. 

An End. — Any Spar or Mast placed perpendicu- 
larly. The Topmasts are an End, they are sway- 
ed up and ridded above the lower Mast. All an end, 
all the Masts are up in their proper stations. 
A-peak.-- See Anchor. 
Ashore.— On Land. A-ground. 
Astern.-" Behind the Ship. 

Athwart.- -Across. Athwart Hawse, across the 
Stem. Athwartships, any thing lying in a direc- 
tion across the Ship. Athwart the Fore Foot, a shot 
fired by another Ship across the Bows. 

A trip.— See Anchor. The Topsails are a-trip, 
i. e. hoisted up. 

Avast.— To cease hauling. To stop. 
A-weigh.-See Anchor. 

A-weather.— The Helm is said to be a-weather, 
when the Tiller is put over to the windward side of 
the Ship. Hard a-weather, when it is put over as 
far as it will go. 

Awning-.— A Canvass Canopy placed over the 
Deck, when the Sun is powerful. 

To Back the /Sails.— To expose their forward 
Surfaces to the Wind, by hauling in the weather 
Braces. 

Back Stays.— Ropes fixed at the Topmast and 
Top Gallant Mast Head, and extended to the Chains 
on the Ship's sides. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 225 

To bag-pipe the Mizen.—To bring the Sheet 
over to the weather Mizen Shrouds, in order to lay 
it a-back. 

To balance the Mizen.— Rolling up a Portion of 
it at the Peak. 

Ballast.— A quantity of Iron, Stone, Gravel, &c. 
placed in the Hold to give a Ship proper Stability, 
when she has no Cargo, or but a small quantity of 
Goods, &c. 

Bands. — Pieces of Canvass sewn across the Sail, 
called Reef-bands ; also a piece stuck on the mid- 
dle of a Sail to strengthen it, when half worn. 

Bar.— A Shoal running across the Mouth of a 
Harbour. 

Capstern Bars.— Pieces of Timber put into the 
Holes in the Drum Head of the Capstern, (where 
they are secured with iron Pins) to heave up the 
Anchor. 

Bare Poles.— Having no Sail up. 

Battens. — Slips of Wood nailed on the Slings of 
the Yards, which are eight square — also over the 
Tarpaulings of a Hatchway, to keep out the water 
in stormy weather. 

Bays.— In Men of War, the starboard and larboard 
sides between Decks, before the Bitts. 

Beams.— Strong Pieces of Timber across the Ship, 
under the Decks, bound to the side by Knees. They 
support and keep the Ship together. 



226 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

On the Beam.— When the Wind blows at a right 
Angle with the Keel. 

Before the Beam. — When the Wind or Object 
bears on some Point less than a right Angle, or 
ninety Degrees, from the Ship's haad. 

Abaft the Beam.—When the Wind or Object 
bears on a Point which is more than a right Angle, 
or ninety Degrees, from the Ship's Course. 

Bearing.— The Point of the Compass on which 
any Object appears. It is also applied to an Object 
which lies opposite to any part of the Ship— thus the 
Buoy, &c. bears on the Beam, the Bow, the Quar- 
ter, &c. 

Beating to Windioard.~Ta.ckmg, and endea- 
vouring to get to windward of some Head Land. 

Becalmed.— Having no Wind to fill the Sails. 
The Ship being deprived of the Power of the Wind 
by the intervention of high land, a large Ship, &c. 

Beckets.- -Short Straps, having an Eye in one 
end, and a double-walled Knot on the other, for sus- 
pending a Yard, &c. till wanted : such are the 
Beckets for the Royal Yards, for the Bights of the 
Sheets, &c 

To Belay.— To make fast. 

Bend.— A kind of Knot— as a Sheet Bend, dec- 
or a Seizing— such as the Bends of the Cable. 

To Bend.— To make fast— as to bend the Sails, 
the Cable, &c 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 227 

Bends.— The Streaks of thick Stuff, or strongest 
Planks in the Ship's sides, on the broadest Part. 
These are also called Wales. 

Betiveen Decks.— Any part of the Ship below, be- 
tween two Decks. 

Bight.- -Any part of a Rope between the ends. 
Also a Collar or Eye formed by a Rope. 

Bilge. — The flat part of a Ship's bottom. Bilge 
Water, that which rests in the Bilge, either from 
Rain, shipping Water, &c. 

Binnacle.— The Frame, or Box which contains 
the Compass. 

Birth.— Aplace of Anchorage. A Cabin, or Apart- 
ment. 

Bitts.— Large upright Pins of Timber, with a Cross 
Piece, over which the Bight of the Cable is put ; also 
smaller ones to belay Ropes, such as Topsail Sheets, 
(fee. 

To Bitt.— To place a Bight of the Cable over the 
Bitts. 

Blocks.— Instruments with Sheaves or Pulleys, 
used to increase the Power of Ropes. 

Block and Block.— When the two Blocks of a 
Tackle are drawn so close together that there is no 
more of the Fall left to haul upon ; it is also termed 
chock a block. 

To make a Board.— To tack. 

To make a Stern Board.— To drive a Ship stern 
foremost, by laying the Sails a-back. 



228 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

Boarding.— Entering- an Enemy's Ship by force. 
These Men are called Boarders. 

Boarding Netting.- -Network triced round the 
Ship, to prevent the Boarders from entering. 

Boats.— Small Vessels— those belonging to Ships 
are — the Long Boat, the Launch, the Cutter, the 
Yawl, and the Jolly Boat, 

Boatswain. — The Officer who has the charge of 
the Cordage, Boats, Rigging, (fee. 

Bobstays.— Ropes rove through the Cutwater, 
and set up with Dead Eyes under the Bowsprit, to 
act against the power of the Fore Stays— sometimes 
one of these is taken to the end of the Bowsprit, to 
act against the Fore Topmast Stays. 

Bolsters.— Pieces of Wood, or Canvass stuffed, 
placed on the lower Tressle Trees, to keep the Rig- 
ging from charing. 

Bolts. — Iron Fastenings, by which the JShip is se- 
cured in her Hull. 

Bolt Ropes.— Ropes sewn round the edges of the 
Sails. 

Booms.— Large Poles used to extend the Studding 
Sails, Spanker, &c. Also, spare Yards, Masts, &c. 

Boom Irons.— Iron Caps fixed on the Yard Arms 
for the Studding-sail Booms to rest in. 

Bovs's.— The round part of the Ship forward. 

To Bowse.— To haul upon. 

Bower.— See Anchor. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 229 

Bowlines. — Ropes made fast to the Leeches or 
Sides of the Sails, to pall them forwards. 

Bowsprit. — A Mast projecting over the Stem. 
_ Box-hauling.— & Method of waring or turning a 
Ship from the Wind. 

Boxing off. — Turning the Ship's Head from the 
Wind, by backing the Head Sails. 

Braces. — Ropes fastened to the Yard Arms to 
brace them about. Also a security to the Rudder, 
fixed to the Stern Post. 

Brails. — Ropes applied to the after Leeches of the 
Mizen, and some of the Staysails, to draw them up. 

To break Bulk. — To begin to unload. 

To break the Sheer. — To swerve from the proper 
direction in which a Ship should be when at Anchor. 

Breaming. — Burning the stuff which is collected 
on the Ship's bottom during a long voyage. 

Breast Hooks. — Pieces of Timber placed across 
the Bows of the Ship, to keep them together. 

Breast Work. — Railing on the fore part of the 
Quarter Deck, where Ropes are belayed. 

Breeching. — A stout Rope fixed to the Cascabel 
of a Gun, fastened to the Ship's side, to prevent its 

running in. 

Bridles. — The upper part of the Moorings laid in 
harbours for Men of War. Also Ropes attached from 
the Leeches of the square Sails to the Bowlines. 

To bring up.— To come to an Anchor. 

20 



230 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

To bring to.— To make a Ship stationary, stop- 
ping her way by bracing some of the Sails aback, 
and keeping others full, so that they counterpoise 
each other. 

To bring by the Lee.- -When a Ship is sailing 
with the Wind very large, and flies off from it so as 
to bring it on the other side, the sails catching a- 
back : she is then said to be brought by the Lee— 
this is a dangerous position in a high Sea. 

To broach to.— Flying up in the Wjnd so as to 
bring it on the other side, when blowing fresh. 

Bulk heads. — Partitions in the Ship. 

Bull's Eye.— A wooden Thimble. 
r Bumkin or Boomkin.—K short Boom fitted to the 
Bows of the Ship for the purpose of hauling down 
the fore Tack to. It is supported on each side by a 
Shroud. 

Bunt.— The middle part of a square Sail. Also 
the fore Leech of a quadrangular Staysail. 

Buntlines.— Ropes attached to the foot of a square 
Sail to haul it up. 

Burton Pendents. — The first piece of rigging 
which goes over the Topmast Head, to which is hook- 
ed a Tackle, to set up the Topmast Shrouds. 

Bush. — Metal let into the Sheaves of Blocks which 
have iron Pins. 

Butt End. — The end of a Plank in the Ship's 
side. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 231 

Buttock. — That part of the Ship's Hull under the 
Stern, between the Water Line and Wing Transom. 

By the Board. — Over the side. A Mast is said to 
go by the Board when it is carried or shot away just 
above the Deck. 

By the Head. — When a Ship is deeper in the 
Water forward than aft. 

By the Stem. — The reverse of by the Head. 

By the Wind. — When a Ship is as near to the 
Wind as her Head can lie with the Sails filled. 

Cabin. — A Room or Apartment : also a Bed Place: 

Cable. — A large Rope by which the Ship is secur- 
ed to the Anchor. Cables take their names from the 
Anchors to whieh they belong, as the Sheet Cable, 
the best Bower Cable, &c. they are generally 120 
Fathoms in length. 

To bitt the Cable. — See Bitts. 

To heave in the Cable. — To pull it into the Ship 
by the Capstern or Windlass. 

To pay out the Cable. — To stick it out of the 

Hawse Hole. 

■ 

To veer away the Cable. — To slacken it so that 
that it may run out, as in paying out. 

To serve the Cable. — To wrap'it round with Rope 
Plait, or Horse Hide, to keep it from chafing. 

To slip the Cable. — To let it run clear out. 

Cable Tier. — That part ot the orlop Deck where 
the Cables are coiled. 



232 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

To coil the Cable. — To lay it on the Deck in a 
circular form. 

Caboose. — The place where the Yictuals are dress- 
ed in Merchant-men. 

Call. — A silver Pipe or Whistle used by the Boat- 
swain and his Mates, by the sounding of which they 
call up the hands, direct them to haul, to veer, to be- 
lay, &c. 

Canted. — Any thing turned from its square 
position. 

Canvass. — Strong Cloth, of which the Sails are 
made. 

Cap. — A Block of Wood which secures the Top- 
mast to the lower Mast. 

Capsize. — To turn over. 

Capstern. — A Machine for drawing up the Anchor 
by the Messenger, which is taken round it, and ap- 
plied to the Cable by the Nippers. 

Careening. — Heaving a Vessel down one side, to 
clean or repair her Bottom. 

Carrick Bend. — A kind of Knot. 

To Cast.— To pay a Ship's Head off by backing 
the Head Sails when heaving up the Anchor, so as 
to bring the Wind on the side required. 

Cat Block. — A large double or three-fold Block 
used for drawing the Anchor up to the Cat-head. 

Cat Head.— A large piece of Timber or Crane 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 233 

projecting over the Bow, for drawing up the Anchor 
clear from the Ship's side. 

Cat-harpins.- — Short legs of Rope seized to the 
upper part of the lower Shrouds, and Futtock Staves, 
to keep them from bulging out by the strain of the 
Futtock Shrouds, and to permit the bracing up of 
the lower Yards. 

Cafs-paw. — A light Air perceived by its effect on 
the Water, but not durable. Also a twist made on 
the Bight of a Rope. 

To Caulk. — To drive Oakum into the Seams of 
the Sides, Decks, &c. 

Chains. — Links of Iron bolted to the Ship's side, 
having dead Eyes in the upper ends, to which the 
Shrouds are connected by the Lanyards. 

Channels. — Strong broad Planks bolted to the 
sides, to keep the dead Eyes in the Chains from the 
side, to spread the Rigging further out. 

Chapelling. — A Ship is said to build a Chapel, 
when by neglect in light winds she turns round so as 
to bring the Wind on the same part which it was be- 
fore she moved. 

Chase. — A Ship pursued by another. 

Bow Chase. — A Gun in the fore part of the Ship. 

Stern Chase.— A. gun pointing a-stern in the after 
part of the Ship . 

To Chase. — To pursue, to follow. 

20* 



234 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

To Cheer. — To huzza. What cheer ho ! A sa- 
lutation. 

Chock-a block. — See Block and Block. 

To clap on. — To make fast, as " clap on the stop- 
pers" $"c. N 

To claw off. — To beat to windward from a lee- 
shore. 

Cleats. — Pieces of Wood to fasten Ropes to. 

Close-hauled. — As near the Wind as the Ship can 
lie. 

Club-hauling. — Tacking by means of an Anchor. 

ClueSy or Clews. — The lower Oorners of the square 
Sails. 

Coamings. — The Borders of the Hatchways which 
are raised above the Deck. 

Coiling. — Laying a Rope down in a circular form. 

Companion. — A wooden Covering over the Cabin 
Hatchway. 

Course. — The Point of the Compass on which the 
Ship sails. The Mainsail, Foresail, and Mizen, are 
also called Courses. 

Crab. — A small Capstern. 

To cun the Ship. — To direct the Helm's-man how 
to steer. 

Cut-water. — The Knee of the Head. 

Davit. — A Crane of Timber used for fishing the 
Anchors. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT, 235 

Dead Eye. — A Block with three Holes in, to re- 
ceive the Lanyard of a Shroud or Stay. 

Dog- Vane. — A small Yane made of Cork and 
Feathers, placed on the weather side of the Quarter 
Deck. 

Dolphin. — A wreath of Rope placed round a Mast 
(see Pudding.) 

To Douse. — To let fly the Halliards of a Topsail 
— to lffwer away briskly, &c. 

Down-hauler. — A Rope to pull down the Stay- 
sails,'Topmast Studding Sails, &c. 

Drift. — Driving to leeward — driving with the 
Tide. Drifts are also those parts where the Rails 
are cut off and end with Scrolls. 

Driver. — A large Sail suspended to the Mizen 
Gaff. 

Dunnage. — Wood, &c. laid at the Bottom of a 
Ship to keep the Cargo dry. 

Barings. — Small Ropes to make fast the upper 
Corners of square Sails, &c. 

Base off. — To slacken. 

End for End. — To let a Rope or Cable run quite 
out. 

End on. — When a Ship's Bows and Head Sails 
are only seen. 

Fag End. — The end of a Rope which is un- 
twisted. . 

Fake. — One Circle of a Coil of Rope. 



236 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

Falling off. — When a Ship moves from the Wind 
further than she ought. 

Fid. — A tapered piece of Wood or Iron to splice 
Ropes with. Also a piece of Wood which supports 
one Mast upon the Tressle-trees of another. 

To Jill. — To brace the Yards so that the wind may 
strike the Sails on their after Surfaces. 

Flukes. — The broad Parts or Palms of the An- 
chors. 

Fore. — That part of the Ship nearest to the Head. 

Fore and Aft. — The length-way of the Ship, or 
in the direction of the Keel. 

Fore Castle. — A short Deck in the fore part of the 
Ship. 

Forging a-head. — Forced a-head by the Wind. 

Foul Hawse. — When the Cables are twisted. 

To Founder. — To sink. 

Full and by. — See close-hauled. 

Furling. — Making fast the Sails to the Yards by 
the Gaskets. 

Gaff. — A Spar or Yard to which the Mizen of a 
Ship or the Mainsail of a Brig or Cutter is bent. 

Gang-way. — A Platform reaching from the Quar- 
ter Deck to the Fore-castle on each side. Also the 
place where persons enter the Ship. 

Gasket. — A piece of Plait to fasten the Sails to the 
Yard. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 237 

Girt. — A Ship is girted when her Cables are too 
tight, which prevents her swinging. 

Goose JSeck. — An iron Hook at the end of a Boom. 

Goose Wings. — The outer extremities of a Main 
or Foresail when loose, the rest of it being furled. 

Goring. — Cutting a Sail obliquely. 

Gripe. — A piece of Timber which joins the Keel 
and the Cutwater. 

Griping. — When a ship carries her Helm much 
to windward. 

Gunnel. — The upper part of a Ship's side. 

Guy.— A rope to steady a Boom, &c. 

Gybing. — When (by the Wind being large) it is 
necessary to shift the Boom of a fore and aft Sail. 

Halliards. — Tackles or Ropes to hoist up the Sails. 

To Hand.— The same as to furl. 

Hatch-way.— A square Hole in the Deck, which 
communicates with the Hold or another Deck. 

To Haul. -To Pull. 

To Hail.— To call out to another Ship. 

A Clear Hawse.— -When the Cables are not twisted. 

A Foul Hawse.— -When the Cables lie across, or are 
twisted. 

Hawse Holes.— The Holes through which the Ca- 
bles pass. 

Hawser.— A small Cable. 

To Heel— To incline to one side. 



238 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

The Helm.— A wooden Bar put through the Head 
of a Rudder — also called a Tiller. 

To Hitch,— To make fast. 

The Hold. — The lower apartment of a Ship where 
the provisions and goods are stowed. 

To Haul Home. — To pull the Clew of a Sail, &c. 
as far as it will go. 

Horse. — A Rope made fast to the Yard, on which 
the Men stand. 

Hull. — The body of a Ship. 

Jewel Blocks. — Blocks at the Topsail Yard Arms, 
for the Topmast Studding Sail Halliards. 

Jigger. — A purchase used in Merchant Ships to 
hold on the Cable. 

Junk. — Pieces of old Cable, out of which Mats, 
Gaskets, &c. are made. 

Jury Masts. — Temporary Masts, stepped when the 
others are carried or shot away. 

Keckling. — Old Rope passed round the Cable at 
short distances. 

Kink. — A twist or turn in a Rope. 

To Labour. — To pitch and roll heavily. 

Land-fall. — Discovering the Land. 

Larboard. — The left Side. 

Launch ho ! — To let go the top Rope when the 
Topmast is ridded. 

Le&ward.— That point towards which the Wind 
blows. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 239 

Lee-lurch.— When the Ship rolls to leeward. 

Lee-way, — The lateral movement of a Ship to 
leeward. 

Lee Tide. — When the Wind and Tide are the 
same Way. 

Lizard. — A small piece of Rope with a Thimble, 
spliced into a larger one. 

Looming. — The appearance of a distant Object 
such as a Ship, the Land, &c. 

Lubber. — A Sailor who does not know his duty. 

Luff. — A direction to the Steer's-man to put the 
Helm to leeward. 

Luff Tackle.— A. large Tackle, consisting of a 
double and a single Block. 

Lying to. — See to bring to. 

To Man the Yards. — To send" Men upon them. 

Messenger. — A Rope attached to the Cable, to 
heave up the Anchor by. 

Mizen. — The aftermost Sail in a Ship. 

To Moor. — To secure a Ship by more than one 
Cable. 

Moorings. — The place where a Vessel is moored. 
Also Anchors with Chains and Bridles laid in Rivers 
for Men of War to ride by. 

Neap Tides.— Those Tides which happen when 
the Moon is in her Quarters, and are not so high as 
the Spring Tides. 



240 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

Neaped. — A Ship is said to be neaped when she 
is left on Shore by these Tides, and must wait for 
the next Spring Tides. 

To Near the Land. — To approach the Shore. 

No Near. — A direction to the Helm's-man to put 
the Helm a little a- weather, to keep the Sails full. 
To let her come no nearer to the Wind. 

Nippers. — Plaiting or Selvages to bind the Cable 
to the Messenger. 

Off and On. — Coming near the Land on one Tack, 
and leaving it on the other: 

Offing. — Out to Sea — from the Land. 

Orlop Deck. — The lowest Deck in the Ship, lying 
on the beams of the Hold. The place where the 
Cables are coiled, and where other Stores are kept. 

Overboard. — Out of the Ship. 

Overhauling.— To haul a fall of Rope through a 
Block till it is slack. Also examining a Ship, &c. 

Painter. — A Rope by which a Boat is made fast. 

To Pass. — To hand anything from one to another ; 
or to place a Rope or Lashing round a Yard, &c. 

To pay. — To rub Tar, Pitch, &c. on any thing 
with a Brush. 

To pay off. — To make a Ship's Head recede from 
the Wind by backing the Head Sails, &c. 

To peak up. — To raise the after end of a Gaff. 

Plying. — Turning to windward. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT.' 241 

Pooping.— & Ship is said to be pooped, when she 
is struck by a heavy Sea, on the Stern or Quarter. 

Port. — To the left side. This term is used to the 
Helm's-man to put the Helm to the left, instead of 
the word " larboard" — to make a distinction from 
the affinity of sound in the word starboard. 

Preventer. — Any thing for temporary security; 
as, a Preventer Brace, &c. 

Quarter. — That part of a Ship's side between the 
Main Chains and the Stern. 

Racking a Fall. — Seizing the parts of a Tackle- 
fall together by cross turns. 

Rake. — The projection of a Ship at the Stem and 
Stern, beyond the extent of the Keel — also the incli- 
nation of a Ship's Masts either forward or aft from a 
perpendicular Line. 

Range of Cable. — A sufficient length hauled up, 
to permit the Anchor to drop to the bottom. 

To rattle down the Shrouds. — To fix the Rat- 
lings on them. 

To reef. — To reduce a Sail, by tying it round 
the Yard with points. 

To reeve. — To put a Rope through a Block, (fee. 
To ride.— To be held by the Cable. To " ride 
easy," is when a Ship does not labour much. To 
" ride hard," is when the Ship pitches with violence. 
To rig. — To fit the Rigging to the Masts. 
To right. — A Ship is said to right when she ris- 



242 



KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 



es to her upright position, after being laid down by 
a violent squall. 

To right the Helm. — To put it a-midships, or in 
its fore and aft position, parallel to the Keel. 

To round in. — To haul in a Brace, &c. which is 
not very tight. 

To rouse in. — To haul in the slack part of the 
Cable. 

To run down. — When one Ship sinks another by 
running over her. 

To scud. — To sail before the Wind in a storm. 

To scuttle a ship. — To make holes in her bottom 
to sink her. 

To serve. — To wind any thing round a Cable or 
jope, to prevent its being chafed. 

To seize. — To make fast or bind. 

To sheer. — To go in and out, and not in a direct 
course. 

To ship. — To put any thing on board. — To u ship 
a Sea" when the Sea breaks into the Ship. 

To shiver. — To make the Sails shake. 

The Slack of a Rope> fyc. — That part which 
hangs loose. 

To slip a Cable. — To let it run out to the end. 

To slue. — To turn any thing about. 

To sound. — To find the bottom by a leaden Plum- 
met. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 243 

To take a Spell. — To be in turn on duty at the 
Lead, the Pump, &c. 

v To spill. — To take the Wind out of the Sails by 
the Braces, &c. in order to reef or hand them. 

To splice. — To join two ropes together, by uniting 
the Strands. 

Spoondrift. — A continued flying of the Spray 
and Waves over the Surface of the Sea. 

To spring a Mast.— To crack or split it. 

A Spring. — A Rope made fast to the Cable at the 
Bow, and taken in abaft, in order to expose the 
Ship's side to any direction. 

Spring Tides. — The highest Tides at the Full 
and Change of the Moon. 

To stand on. — To keep in the Course. 

To stand by. — To be ready. 

Starboard. — The right side. 

To steer. — To manage a Ship by the movement 
of the Helm. 

To stopper the Cable. — To keep it from running 
out, by fastening short Ropes to it, called Stoppers. 

Strand. — One of the Divisions of a Rope. 

Stranded. — When one of the Divisions is broken. 
Also when a Ship is run on Shore so that she cannot 
be got off, she is said to be Stranded. 

To Stretch. — To stand on different Tacks under 
a press of Sail. 

To Strike. — To beat against the bottom. Also to 



244 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

lower the Flag in token of submission. Lowering 
the Topmasts is commonly termed striking them. 

To surge the Messenger. — To slack it suddenly. 

To sway. — To hoist up the Yards and Topmasts. 

To swing. — To turn a Ship from one side of her 
Anchor to the other, at the change of the Tide. 

To tack. — To turn a Ship by the Sails and Rud- 
der against the wind. 

Taught. — A corruption of Tight. 

Taunt.— Long, Lofty. 

Tending. — The movement of a Yessel in swing- 
ing at Anchor. 

Tier, — The*place where Cables are coiled. 

Traverse. — To sail on different Courses. When 
a rope runs freely through a Thimble, &c. it is said 
to traverse. 

Trying. — Laying to in a Gale of Wind under 
a small Sail. 

Turning to Windward. — Tacking. 

Twice-laid Stuff. — Rope made from the Yarns of 
a Cable, &c. which has been half worn. 

To veer and haul. — To pull a Rope and then 
slacken it. 

To unbend. — To cast loose. 
To unmoor. — To reduce a Ship to a single An- 
chor, after riding by two. 

To unreeve. — To pull a Rope out of a Block. 
To unrig. — To deprive a Ship of her Rigging. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 245 

To unship. — To take any thing from the place in 
which it was fixed. 

Waist of a Ship, — The part between the Main 
and Fore Drifts — also a term sometimes used for the 
spare or waste Anchor, from its being stowed near 
the Fore Drift, or Fore Part of the Waist. 

Wake. — The Track left by the Ship on trie Wa- 
ter which she has passed over. 

Wales. — See Bends. 

To xoare. — To turn a Ship round from the Wind. 

To warp. — To move a Ship by Hawsers, &c. 

Watch. — A division of the Ship's company who 
keep the Deck for a certain time. One is called star- 
board, and the other the larboard Watch. 

Water-logged. — The state of a leaky Ship when 
she is so full of Water as to be heavy and unman- 
ageable. 

Way of a Ship. — Her progress through the Wa- 
ter. 

To weather a Ship. — To get to windward of her. 

A weather Tide. — A Tide or Stream which runs 
to windward. 

Weather-beaten. — Any thing worn or damaged 
by bad weather. 

To weigh. — To heave the Anchor out of the 
Ground. 

To whip. — To bind the end of a Rope with Yarn, 

21* 



246 KEDGE ANCHOR, OH 

to prevent its untwisting — also to hoist any thing by 
a Rope which is reeved through a single Block. 

Wind's Eye. — That point from which the wind 
blows in a direct Line. 

Between Wind and Water. — That part of the 
Ship's bottom which is just at the surface of the Wa- 
ter, or what is called the Water Line. 

To wind a Boat, $*c. — To turn it round from its 
original Position. 

Wind-rode.-- When the Ship is kept a-stern, &c. 
of her Anchor solely by the Wind. 

To Windward. — Towards that point from whence 
the Wind blows. # 

To work to Windward. — To make a progress 
against the Wind by Tacking. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 247 



MISCELLANEOUS ARTICLES. 



1. Boatsivain. 

This officer holds a station in the Ship of the 
greatest possible utility. To all other inferior officers 
a specified duty is assigned, but with the Boatswain it 
is otherwise, and consequently his vigilance should 
ever be on the alert, and his eyes should be every 
where. He ought for example to be a thorough 
seaman, and a good rigger, he should be active 
of limb, quick of sight, and ready in the exercise 
of his mental faculties, but all these qualifica- 
tions will fall short of their due effect, unless he be 
possessed of good temper and be of sober habits. Al- 
though the Boatswain is to consider himself a day 
officer, he should bear in mind, that at night he is 
subject to the call of the Lieutenant of the Watch. 
The Boatswain will be required to inspect every 
morning the standing and running rigging, and re- 
port their state to the Officer of the Watch. Should 
repairs be needed, or new rope required, he is to in- 
form the first Lieutenant immediately afterwards. 



248 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

2. Squaring Yards. (Hints.) 

Simple as may seem the process of Squaring Yards, 
it is nevertheless a piece of duty, which requires a 
considerable degree of "precision. And this preci- 
sion can never be obtained, without a knowledge 
of the principle upon which the yards should be 
s quared. 

A Boatswain, ignorant of this principle, will gene- 
rally proceed thus ; he first Bowses taut the lower 
Trusses, squares the yards by the Braces, and quite re- 
gardless of the distance of the Topsail Yards from their 
respective Caps, or looking to see if the yards are amid- 
ships, directs the Chief Boatswain's Mates to take his 
station on the Jib Boom end, whilst he himself pro- 
ceeds in the Boat ahead of the ship, to square the 
Yards by the Lifts. Should the foreyard be required 
to be topped to Starboard, the Boatswain will top 
away upon that yard Arm, until by chance he disco- 
vers he has topped it too high ; to remedy this eye- 
sore, he then sings out " Foreyard to Port," and Tops 
until he raises the Larboard Yard Arm as high as 
the, Starboard. Producing by this a system of top- 
ping and never settling a most unsightly bow in the 
yard. He then squares the Foretopsail yard, by the 
bowed foreyard, and of course treats the fore Topsail 
yard to a bit of a bend likewise. He then takes the 
Main yard in hand, which though probably square by 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 249 

the Lifts, can no longer look so in his eye, because 
the yard arms are not made to cock up like those of 
the foreyard. " Main Yard to Starboard," he sings 
out with an audible voice, the Lift is topped several 
feet to Starboard, and then to Port, until the yard 
assumes the desired Cock the Boatswain has in his 
eye. In squaring the Loftier yards by the Lifts, 
Boatswains seldom take the precaution of placing 
hands to attend the Top Gallant Braces. It should 
be remembered, that the topping of the Lifts, alter 
and disturb the square position of the yards by the 
Braces, — these may appear minute matters, but un- 
less they be strictly observed, yards never can be pro- 
perly squared. 

Hints. Before squaring yards the Boatswain is re- 
commended to see that the Masts and particularly 
the lofty spars are upright and all in one. It fre- 
quently happens that after the Boatswain has squared 
all the yards fore and aft, he detects an awkward 
inclination in one of the Top Gallant Masts ; he 
nevertheless returns on board, and reports to the 
senior Lieutenant, yards squared and ropes taut, but 
afterwards desires the Captain of the Top to get 
a pull of the Starboard or Larboard Top Gallant 
Breast Back stay, forgetting that this very pull affects 
the Top Gallant Lifts, and consequently alters the 
position of the yards. The first thing after the masts 
are all in one, or upright as you choose to term it, is 



250 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

to get your yards exactly amidships by your Rolling 
Tackles, and then get them snugly trussed to the 
mast and square them by the braces. 

Note. All yards above the Lower yards, ought to 
be the depth of the cap, above the cap, before you at- 
tempt to square it by either Lifts, or Braces. When 
squaring yards you ought to be very particular not 
to bow your yards up, nor yet to let the yard arms 
droop down, but be very particular that your yards 
lay perfectly parallel, for it looks bad to see a ship's 
yards bow up, and it looks still worse, to see them 
droop down. In squaring your Top Gallant yards, 
you ought to be very particular in attending the braces, 
when you are topping on your Top Gallant Lifts. 
When you top on either of your Lifts, you ought to 
slack the brace at the same time, and let a careful 
hand look out for the yard, to see that it is square by 
the braces. It not unfrequently happens that after 
the Boatswain makes his report to the Senior Lieu- 
tenant or the officer of the watch, that " Everything 
is well and in order aloft," Shirts, Trowsers, and of- 
ten scrubbed Hammocks, are seen from other ships, 
suspended before the heel of the Topmast, or in po- 
sitions purposely sought, to avoid the eye of the Of- 
ficer of the deck, or first Lieutenant. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 251 

3. Turning the Hands up. {Hints.) 

In turning the Hands up or calling the Crew to 
the performance of their duties, the Boatswain too of- 
ten indulges in piercing pipes, and drawling tones of 
superfluous length. Boatswains have a singular 
propensity to demonstrate the soundness of their 
lungs, by an endless protraction of a note on their 
piercing pipes — they should not be so fond of supply- 
ing the deficiency of Sea birds. 

This is not the worst feature in their taste, for 
when at last they utter the required summons, they 
give it forth in tones so drawling, that the first words 
are often forgotten before the last words are out. 

Note. A-l-l H-a-n-d-s a-b-ou-t S-h-i-p. — 
This lengthy summons, and a longer winded whistle, 
and each pipe and phrase three times repeated by the 
Boatswain and his mates, the ship may be ashore be- 
fore the leader of the band is convinced how dearly 
he has " Paid for the Whistle." . 



4. bispections, (Morn in g and Evening.) Hints. 

In the morning the Boatswain will be required to 
inspect as early as possible the state and condition of 
the standing and running rigging, and to report the 
result of his examination to the officer of the morn- 



252 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

ing watch. He should be particularly careful to see 
that the Ratlines of the rigging are properly secure, 
that the Topsail sheet service is not chafed, and that 
all the quarter and Paunch Matts are properly 
placed. 

Evening. The Boatswain should inspect at even- 
ing quarters all the Rigging Stoppers, and necessary 
gear required upon the occasion of clearing for ac- 
tion, so, that in the event of being surprised by an 
enemy at night, such gear may be placed at hand for 
>, immediate use — he should also see that the Tog- 
gles, fitted to the lower and topsail Braces, be secure- 
ly seized to their respective parts. 



5. Inspection of Stowed Anchors. [Hints.) 

In boisterous weather and particularly if the ship 
be labouring or lurching heavily, the Boatswain 
should inspect the several Anchors, and see that they 
be securely stowed. In small vessels whose Anchors 
in a heavy sea are constantly buried under water it 
is necessary to take the precaution of passing Pre- 
venter Stocks and Shank lashings. The quarter boats 
should be also inspected, and the Boatswain should 
report to the officer of the .watch the result of such 
inspection. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 253 

6. Setting up the rigging at Sea. (Hints.) 

Whenever it is required to set up the lower shrouds 
at sea, the Topmast Shrouds should be all let go, 
this practice is recommended upon the presumption 
that the Lower rigging will not be cast loose, or set 
up on the occasion of a swell, or that the Ship be 
rolling or pitching. It has been well observed that 
by letting go two Topmast Shrouds at a time, an un- 
even strain has been brought upon the futtock, which 
prevents the Shrouds of the lower rigging being 
equally drawn down. Upon all occasions of setting 
up the Lower rigging at sea it is always advisable to 
have ready prepared as many Luffs as possible, so 
that two shrouds may be set up at a time, and that 
there may be no delay in shifting the Tackles from 
Shroud to Shroud. When the lower rigging is up, 
the futtock plates should be beaten down to the top, 
and the Shrouds set tautly up by means of tackles 
ready hooked to their respective Laniards. The 
method of employing the Spanish Windlass for the 
purpose of setting up these Shrouds is not to be re- 
commended. It occupies too much time and often 
creates unnecessary delay before the topmast rigging 
can be set up. In staying the Topmasts the Boat- 
swain is not recommended to bouse too far forward 
the heads of the mast, and he should recollect that 
the Angle formed by the main Topmast stay with 

22 



254 ' KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

the Fore Top, is considerably greater than that of 
the Foretop Mast with the Bowsprit, and consequent- 
ly that the lever of the former is more powerful than 
that of the latter. 



7. Inspection of Boats: {Hints.) 

Every evening after sunset the Boatswain will be 
required to inspect the Boats on the Booms, to see 
that they be perfectly clear, and that their slings be 
severally hooked in readiness for hoisting out. In 
Tropical climates it is strongly recommended to un- 
cover the boats after the sun has set, in order that 
they may benefit by the dew and air. Each cover 
should be made up and placed in the Bow of the 
Boat. 



8. Slacking the Jib Stay in bad weather, (Hints.) 

The Jib stay is always set up as taut as a harpstring, 
consequently, when it comes on to blow, both the 
spray of the sea, and the rain, tend to tauten it more, in 
pitching too it must assist to spring the Boom, work 
the Bowsprit, and cause unnecessary strain upon the 
rope itself^ Whenever it blows so fresh that the Jib 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 255 

is not likely to be set, the Jib stay should be slacked. 
If it be required subsequently to setting the sail, no- 
thing can be easier than to set the stay up, while the 
Jib is loosing, — bear this in mind. 



9. Clearing for Action. {Hints.) 

The Boatswain should see that the rigging stop- 
pers should be placed on the Poop, Quarter deck 
and Forecastle abreast of their respective shrouds, 
that the Topsail sheets be severally stoppered, the 
Top sail yards securely slung, and that preventer 
Braces be attached to the Lower and Topsail yards. 
Should time permit of the precaution, the fore and 
main runners, fore, and main Tackles, and a proper 
proportion of stout Stuffs should be lighted on the 
Booms ready at hand, and whips ready rove to whip 
the runners to their respective pendants ; the mast 
head pendants should be previously lashed abaft the 
mast head. For the purpose of, and on this occas- 
ion, when every second of time that can be saved is 
of the first moment, it is strongly recommended to fit 
the runners with stout salvages and toggles. Com- 
pared to lashing, the method of toggling the runnner 
becomes a mere momentary operation. Some ships 
previously to going into action, have lashed their run- 
ners, taken them forward and set them up, and have 



256 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

also boused up their fore and main Tackles, on each 
side, the propriety of this practice becomes a matter 
of question, inasmuch as the runners and Tackles 
are more likely to be shot away when aloft, than 
when lying low, bighted along upon the Booms. 

The Boom cover should also be taken off, and all 
the minor Lashings of the Spare Spars cast off, for. 
it may be necessary, even in the middle of an action, 
to have recourse to a spare Spar to lash up and 
down the Lower mast. A coil of stretched rope and 
a ball of Spun Yarn, should be sent aloft and placed 
in each Top. 

Note. It is said that Paul Jones, perceiving the 
main mast of his ship totter, in a severely contested 
action, whipt the spare Jib Boom up and down, 
the Mast, converting it into a fish, and securing the 
two spars together by means of long nippers passed 
on the bight^ and hove taut by Handspikes, Spanish 
Windlass fashion. 



10. Caution in getting in the Bowsprit. (Hints.) 

In getting in the Bowsprit, care must be taken 
that the Main purchase be overhauled down abaft 
the Bumpkins, for should the purchase fall be pass- 
ed before and under the Bumpkin it would be im- 
possible to lift the Bowsprit higher. The Spar 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 257 

must necessarily be lowered again into the water, the 
purchase untoggled and shifted abaft the Bumpkin, 
and in fact all the work must be done over again, 
(bear this in mind.) 



11. Stopping out Top Gallant " A Yard ropes. 
[Hints.) 

The practice of permitting the Topmen to stop the 
Top Gallant Yard ropes out at their own conveni- 
ence, and consequently at unstated periods, is at vari- 
ance with that order and regularity which should 
ever characterize the duties and discipline of a ves- 
sel of war. 

In well regulated ships, the officer of the watch 
following the movements of the Senior Officers, di- 
rects the Boatswain or his mates to pipe " Out yard 
ropes," if tripping lines are tolerated the yard rope 
and tripping line men should lie out together, by 
pursuing this system, the yards will be kept square, 
and will not (as is of constant occurrence) be seen for 
an hour and a half before sunset topping in different 
directions. The same rule should be observed when 
placing on whips for Hammock Girtlines, or Clothes 
lines. 



22* 



258 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

12. Preventer Braces. 

It is desirable to establish a general rule that when 
the Topsails are treble reefed, the Preventer Braces 
are to be placed on the Yards, and that the relieving 
tackles in the Gunroom be placed at hand ready for 
use. 



13. Reeving Running Rigging. 

In reeving running rigging the Boatswain is not 
recommended to cut and reeve, but on the contrary 
to reeve and cut. However correct the " Rigging 
List" may appear there will be always found a differ- 
ence of a few fathoms in rope, and so it happens that 
the difference invariably errs on the wrong side, the 
allowance being said to be shorter than the measure- 
ment, — per Rope. 

Note. It were much to be desired that the run- 
ning rigging, previously to reeving, should be stretch- 
ed at the Capstan. The old practice of taking the 
end through the Coil, will in some measure relieve 
the rope of many of its kinks, but taking the mere 
turns out of a rope is not sufficient to facilitate its run 
through the block. Such ropes as Topsail Sheets, 
Top Gallant Sheets, after Braces, and Jib and Stay- 
sail Haliards should be all stretched before they are 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 259 

rove in their respective Blocks. Moreover, if there 
be any time more than another, that a vessel will re- 
quire her ropes to ran freely, it is upon the occasion 
of her first leaving port, with a green and undisci- 
plined crew. 



14. Topsail Tyes. 

Topsail Tyes are now rove in some ships suffici- 
ently long to send the Yards down with, and when 
not wanted for that purpose, the surplus ends per- 
taining to the standing parts secured to the Mast 
head. In some ships a strop and thimble are fitted 
under the rigging, or a score cut in the heel of the Top- 
gallant mast, for the purpose of reeving through the 
standing parts of the Tye, which is secured Breech- 
ing fashion by two strong seizings, and then stopped 
down the Topmast rigging. In shifting yards this 
method will be found to save much time and trouble. 
The surplus end will also answer to sling the Top- 
sail yard with, when going into action. 



15. Blacking the Rigging. [Hints.) 

In blacking the rigging the first precaution that 
should be taken by the Boatswain is to cover with 



260 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

old Canvass or Hammocks the lower Mast Heads, 
and particularly the Caps. The Blacking should be 
put on hot. 

Thin Tar with a certain portion of Lamblack, hot 
Salt water, whiskey and a little Litharge mixed toge- 
ther, make an admirable mixture for blacking the 
rigging. It is not recommended to blacken the Roy- 
al and Top Gallant rigging aloft — this rigging may 
be previously blackened and triced up to dry. 

gjj* See composition for Blacking. 



16. Top Gallant Mast Ropes. 

For expedition, the Mast rope rove upon the bight, 
with lizards taken through the Royal sheave must 
be preferred to the old manner of ridding Masts by 
the double operation of two Mast ropes — namely, the 
long and the short. If delay is desired ; or in other 
words people prefer going the longest way to work, 
the short mast rope must be put in requisition. The 
mast rope, however, rove upon the bight with lizards, 
is better calculated for harbour practice than for sea 
service. The Mast rope which is here recommended 
as applicable to every purpose may be fitted as fol- 
lows. The Rope is rove as usual, stopped to the Top 
Gallant mast head and Royal sheave hole, leaving a 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 261 

long end over the upper stop to hitch to the Bolt in the 
Cap before cutting the stops. To prevent the ropes 
from slipping, rack both parts together above the 
sheave hole in the heel of the mast. 



17. Fore and Main Buntlines. 

The Buntlines of the Courses are frequently found 
to jamb aloft, and when rove on the bight and led 
forward constantly to become Cable laid. Buntlines 
will be found to lead fairer and to haul the sails 
higher up by fitting them after the following method. 
In the fore part of the Top between the Trusseitrees 
cut two holes, into these holes insert leaden pipes 
backstay fall fashion. Hook to the foremost Bolt on 
each side of the Lower Cap a block through which 
each Buntline leg is to be rove, take each through 
the holes cut in the Top, and pass them down before 
all, and toggle them to the foot of the sail, the hauling 
part to be led aft through the Lubber's hole, and a 
block turned in at a proper distance to allow the after 
leg to act the part of a pendant. Through this block 
a whip purchase is rove, by this method the Bunt- 
lines will be always kept clear, and they will be found 
upon letting go the whips, to overhaul themselves. 
In Port, when the ship is moored, the Buntline blocks 
with the ropes rove may be unhooked from the Bolts 



262 



KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 



in the Cap and placed in the Top immediately over 
the holes, through which the foremost legs are rove in. 



18. Futtock Shrouds. 

In all vessels of war the Futtock Shrouds are too 
long. Ships whose lower yards are slung high and 
brace sharply up have their futtock shrouds conside- 
rably shorter than the established length. 



19. Tops and half Tops. 

Many Seamen affect to disapprove of half Tops, 
asserting that two halves can never be so well secur- 
ed as one whole, this is mere prejudice, for practical 
purposes a half top must be always preferred. 



20. Striking Topmasts. 

The absence of forethought, or a little practical 
precaution on the part of the Boatswain and Petty' 
Officers, is sometimes the cause of this operation be- 
ing one of no little labour, when the hands are turned 
up to strike Topmasts, the Laniards of the after 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 263 

Backstays and Topmast rigging should be severally 
slacked, whilst the Jib Stay, fore topmast staysail 
Haliards, Topsail haliards, Topsail Lifts, Reef Tac- 
kles and Top Gallant sheets ought to be well over- 
hauled, steady hands should also be placed to attend 
the spring and standing stays. 

When blowing hard head to wind, Topmasts con- 
stantly bend in the cap, from the circumstance of 
letting go'and overhauling too much of the stays. 

Should there be any unusual strain on the Top 
tackle pendants, it were well to " stand fast" the falls 
for a few seconds, in order that the people aloft may 
examine the vicinity of the Trussletrees, for the most 
minute rope jambed between the Trussletrees and 
the Mast, may produce sufficient strain to carry away 
the Top Tackle falls if not the pendants. This pre- 
caution is more particularly directed during periods 
of striking Topmasts in the dark. When the Masts 
are struck they should be kept on the right slew, and 
their heels securely lashed, in the event of the Ship 
parting, or it becomes necessary to set close reefed 
Topsails with the Mast down. The practice of 
Sheep shanking Backstays is not recommended, the 
Backstays may be set up through the medium of 
good Luff Tackles, and by such means the mast may 
be rendered sufficiently secure to support the strain 
of a close reefed Topsail. 



264 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

21. Swaying up Topmast. 

In performing this heavy operation every care 
should be taken to overhaul well, and to see that 
such of the standing and running rigging are per- 
fectly clear which are calculated to impede the as- 
cent of the masts. The Topsail Lifts, Topsail Tyes, 
Reef Tackles, Jib and Staysail Halyards should be 
well overhauled below and aloft, and the Laniards of 
the Topmast rigging and Backstays be got ready for 
setting up, the moment the mast is ridded and stayed. 
The Forecastle men forward should have Luffs lead 
along the Bowsprit, and Tackles up and down the 
Foremast, ready for staying th e Fore and Main Top- 
masts. No Topmasts should be ridded by a single 
Top tackle pendant. It is true that small vessels are 
not allowed a second Pendant, but such ships should 
reeve a hawser through the Dead sheave for the pur- 
pose of acting the part of a preventer in the event of 
the Top Tackle fall parting. The same precaution 
should be taken with respect to the position of the 
Cross Trees over head as has been already mention- 
ed under the head of rigging Topmasts. 

Note. Such Ships should be prepared with stop- 
pers, with two tails and a Toggle, so as to clap on 
the Top Tackle Pendants about a foot abaft and un- 
der the Top Block hooked to the Cap. Topmasts 
ascend comparatively easy until the Fid hole becomes 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 265 

within six inches of the Trusseltrees, then a heavy 
strain is brought upon the Pendants and particularly 
upon the falls. 



22. Unmooring. 

It frequently occurs in unmooring vessels of War, 
that the veering cable is not sufficiently veered. In 
weighing the first Anchor a considerable strain has 
been felt at the Capstan in consequence of the ship 
not being permitted to bring the Cable up and down. 
It is recommended to veer 3 or 4 fathoms after the 
Cable is said to be up and down, this can do no 
harm, it will put the whole strain of the Ship on the 
Anchor, that is, weighing, and thereby facilitate trip- 
ping it. 

23. Reef Lines to the Topsails. 

Few ships in the service are fitted with these Lines. 
In some ships they are attached. In reefing Top- 
sails when blowing fresh and particularly when 
steering a course, or going large, Reef lines assist ma- 
terially to spill the sail, and enable the men on the 
yards to get hold of the points, which are difficult to 
reach when the Canvass is bellying to the breeze. 

Reef lines are thus fitted. Take a piece of small 

rope, splice one end into an eyelet hole into the head 

23 



266 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

of the sail, seize it around the neck of one of the first 
reef Points, on the foreside of the sail in a straight 
line with the eyelet hole, leaving enough slack to pre- 
vent the sail girting, then seize it under to the sec-, 
ond, then the third reef, splice an eye in the end, and 
seize it to the neck of a close reef point. In large 
ships there should be thrae reef lines, on each yard 
arm, in small vessels two will be sufficient. 



24. Reefing Courses. 

To execute this service with security as well as 
celerity, the reef, earings should be formed of rope 
sufficiently strong to bear being boused out by the 
Boom Jiggers, by this method the inner turns of 
small rope may be passed with facility. 

The outer Earing should be led through a block 
or cheek fitted for the purpose, this earing it must be 
remembered, is not to be considered as a substitute 
for the reef pendant, it should also be hooked and 
hauled out by a separate Tackle. It is the general 
cutom now, to fit all reef earings on the bight, and 
pass on both ends. 



25. Top Gallant Masts struck. 
When Top Gallant masts are struck, care should 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 267 

be taken that a small mat be placed between the 
Topmast and the heel of the Top Gallant masts, 
proper heel lashings should also be fitted for the pur- 
pose of securing the latter. 



26. Keeping a clear Anchor, 

That part of seamanship which relates to the me- 
thod of tending a ship to the tide, or in other words, 
of keepingthe Cable clear of the Anchor may not be 
inaptly termed the blind branch, of the mariner's art, 
the Buoy floating on the surface being the only pos- 
sible guide that the seaman possesses, to point to the 
position of the Anchor hidden under water. 

From being little understood, and by young offi- 
cers it is seldom put in practice, the art of keeping a 
clear anchor, is by many considered a difficult task, 
but, were Lieutenants to give more attention to the 
matter, and to place less dependence on the Master or 
Pilot, they would soon attain every necessary know- 
ledge to meet the most difficult tide case. 



27. Anchor turning in the Ground. 

In order to ensure the certainty of the Anchor 
turning in the ground with the tending or swinging 



268 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 



of the ship, it is recommended (whenever it is possi- 
ble) to resort to this practice : To shoot the ship on 
the same side of her Anchor at each change of tide, 
for if the Anchor should not turn in the ground, the 
Cable will get foul, either about the stock or the up- 
per fluke, and trip it out of the ground. — Remember 
this. 



28. To tend to a weather Tide. 

Let it be supposed that a ship is riding at single 
anchor upon a Lee tide, with the wind in same di- 
rection of the tide, and that it be required upon the 
tide setting to windward to tend the Ship clear of 
the Anchor. To effect this, as soon as the ship be- 
gins to feel the turn of the weather tide, and that 
the vessel brings the wind broad on the weather bow, 
the head sails should be hoisted and the Lee sheets 
hauled aft, in order to shoot the ship from her Anchor 
on a taut Cable, the Helm must be put A Lee, and 
kept in that position until the tide sets the ship over 
to windward of her Cable, and the Buoy appearing 
on the same side with the Helm. If from light 
winds the Buoy bears nearly abeam, her head sails 
may be hauled down, but if the breeze be strong and 
it causes the ship to shoot in a direction nearly end 
on with that of the Cable, bringing the Buoy on her 
quarter, it will be necessary to keep the Fore top,- 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 269 

mast Staysail set in order to check the vessel should 
she be disposed to break her shear against the action 
of her helm, or be inclined to drop to windward, and 
"go over" her anchor in a broadside or lateral di- 
rection. 



29. A Man Overboard. 

If the Ship be going free, and particularly if fast 
through the water, it is recommended to bring too 
with the head-yards aback, for it is obvious that if 
the Main yard be left square, the Ship will be longer 
coming too, will shoot farther, increase the distance 
from the man, and add materially to the delay of suc- 
cour. It will however require judgment, especially 
if blowing fresh, to be careful and right the Helm ia 
time, or the Ship will fly too, too much, gain stern- 
way, and risk the boat in lowering down. 

The best authority recommends, that if possible, the 
Ship should not only be hove aback when a man 
falls overboard, but she ought to be brought round on 
the other tack, of course sail ought to be shortened 
in Stays, and the Main yard kept square. This plan 
implies the ship being on a wind, or from the posi- 
tion of having the wind not above two points abaft 
the Beam. The great merit of such a method of pro- 
ceeding is that if the evolution succeeds, the Ship 

23* 



270 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

when round will drift down towards the man, and 
although there may be some small risk in lowering 
the Boat in stays from the ship, having at one period 
Stern way, there will in fact be little time lost, if the 
boat be not lowered until the Ship be well round, 
and the stemway at an end. There is more mischief 
done generally by lowering the boat too soon than 
by waiting until the fittest moment arrives for doing 
it coolly. And it cannot be too often repeated, that 
almost the whole depends upon the self-possession of 
the Officer of the Deck. 



30. Hailing Aloft. 

Hailing Aloft in well regulated Ships is much re- 
pressed by the Boatswain, for bluster is a general in- 
dication of but little work or the truth of the adage, 
" All noise and no work." 



31. Jib Stay and Haliards. 

For various reasons it is advisable to dispense with 
the Cheek Blocks which are usually fitted to the fore 
Top Mast head for the purpose of reeving the above 
two ropes, together with the fore Topmast staysail 
Haliards. In the first place, if the foretopmast be 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 271 

sprung or carried away in chase, and that it be re- 
quired to shift the mast with all possible speed, con- 
siderable time is taken up in removing and replacing 
cheek blocks at the Mast head. But independently 
of these reasons, the Stay and Haliards should be 
rove under the Mast head, if only to keep them clear 
of the foot of the Topgallant Sail. 

Note. Tn some ships, the Jib and Fore Topmast 
Staysail Haliards are rove through ginns fitted for 
the purpose. Ginns are however not supplied in all 
ships, but you can always fit fiddle blocks under the 
eyes of your rigging, your Jib and Staysail Haliards 
reeve in the upper sheave, and the Topsail Buntlines 
iu the lower ones. 



32. Proportions for Cables. 

The Sheet and Bower Cable 1 inch in circumfer- 
ence for every 2 feet of beam. The Stream Cable 
and Messenger f of the Sheet or Bower, Chain Ca- 
bles are frequently used for Bowers, an allowance is 
made of f of an inch for the diameter of the wire of 
the Links, for every inch of circumference of the 
Hemp Cables, the same rule applies in all cases where 
Iron rigging is substituted for Hemp. 

Note. Cable yarns are spumf longer than the 
Cable for which they are intended. The yarns for 



272 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

120 fathoms of Cable must be 200 fat'noms long, for 
a shroud laid rope the yarns are f longer, i. e. 90 for 
60 fathoms. 



33. Proportions for Anchors. 

For the Sheet and Bower Anchors, take f the 
number of feet which the ship draws with all her 
stores, &c, on board, and add it to the breadth of 
beam, and allow one cwt. for every foot. 

The stream Anchor \ of the Sheet or Bower. 

For ships smaller than Frigates an allowance of 
500 cwt. every 100 Tons burden should be made 
for Sheet and Bower Anchors. 

In Stocking an Anchor, add together the length of 
the Shank and half the length of the ring, for the 
length of the stock. 

The stock is as many inches in thickness in the 
middle as the shank is long in feet, and is tapered to 
half that size at the end. 

In puddening an Anchor ring, cut the length 3 
times the diameter of the Ring. 



34. What length is necessary to form a Clinch. 
In bending Cables, the length of rope necessary 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 273 

to form a Clinch is equal to^the length of the Shank 
of the Anchor. 



35. To splice an old Cable to a new one. 

Take the old one to a rope walk, unlay the strands, 
and splice them to the strands of the new one with 
long splices, after which lay up the latter. It can be 
done in another way, but it requires a good and neat 
marlinespike sailor to do it. 



36. To send up Top Gallant Yards. 

Call all hands up Top Gallant Yards, reeve the 
yard rope through the Jack block, which send aloft 
and hook to the Top Gallant Tye. Man the Top 
Gallant Haliards and trice up the Jack Block, Man 
the yard rope, sway out of the chains, when the yards 
are steady aloft, men in the Tops and on the Topsail 
yards, bear the Top Gallant yards clear, the Lower 
Lift is then overhauled down, and when the upper 
yard arm is above the Topmast Crosstrees, " Avast 
Swaying," while the men in the Crosstrees slip off 
the Grummets, and put on the upper Lifts and Braces, 
while hands in the Topmast rigging, rig the lower 
yard arm, man the Lower lifts and braces, sway 



274 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

higher and when the slings come above the Top- 
mast Cap, take a turn with the parrel lashing, at- 
tend the yards and sway across, slacking the upper 
lifts, and bousing upon the lower one, parrel the yard 
and square it by the Lifts and Braces, let go the 
Top Gallant Haliards, trice down the Jack Block, 
hook the Tye, send the yard rope in the Top, bend 
the sheets and Clewlines, bowlines and buntlines, 
send aloft Royal Studding Sail booms and reeve the 
gear. 

Note. Royal yards are sent aloft in the same 
manner, except that they have no Jack Blocks, the 
yard rope reeves through the sheave in the Royal 
Mast Head. (Note. Jack blocks are not used at all 
now-a-days in the heaviest of ships for Top Gallant 
yards.) 



37. To keep the Hawser clear when moored. 

When it is nearly slack water, cant her with the 
Helm the right way, and if necessary, make use of 
Jib Spanker and yards. 



38. To tend to Windward Single Anchor. 
When the tide slacks, sheer her with the Helm, 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 275 

run up the Jib and Foretopmast Staysail, with weath- 
er sheets aft, when canted the right way the lee 
sheets may be hauled aft and the yards filled, thus 
setting her abreast to a taut Cable. When the Buoy 
is on the Lee quarter, brace the head yards to the 
wind, and fill the after ones, when the tide swings 
her head around, so as to shake the sails, furl and 
stow them. 



39. To tend to Leeward. 

As the tide slackens sheer her to the same side of 
the Buoy on which she came to windward, and fill 
the yards, which will set her end on, over the Cable, 
she will now by the effect of the wind, bring her stem 



over the Cable, and bring the Buoy on her weather 
quarter, put the Helm " a weather," and she will 
shoot ahead, tautening the Cable by shearing her 
head from the wind. When the wind gets a little 
aft the beam hoist the Jib to prevent the Cable from 
drawing her head to wind. Let her lay in this 
position until she falls off. When the head sails 
shake, haul down and stow them. 



40. To back the ship. 
As the tide slacks, shear her to windward, sheet 



276 KEDGE ANCHORj OR 

home and set the mizen Topsail, thus she will 
back round to leeward, as soon as the tide sets up, 
clew up and furl the mizen Topsail. 



41. To break the Shear. 

When tending to the tide, and the ship comes 
over her Anchor, she may break her shear by cant- 
ing her stern the wrong way, when this is the case, 
put the helm a- weather, run the Jib up, fill the Head 
yards and the after yards, kept too. , Every thing is 
now arranged to bring her round again, when she 
must be managed as before. 



42. Strip Ship. 

Begin aloft and go down regularly, sending down, 
that first which went aloft by a reverse operation. 
Commence with the Top Gallant and royal rigging, 
and rig in the flying Jib Boom ; next send down Top- 
sail and Lower yards, Topmast Caps ; unrig the 
Topmasts, get in the Jib boom and Spritsail yards, 
get off Lower Caps, Tops and rigging, unrig the 
Bowsprit and unrig all GarTs, Booms, and Davits. 



VHL 



I 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 277 

43, A J\ote on Gammoning the Bowsprit, 

The better way to gammon the Bowsprit in a 
large ship, is to get a Caulker's Stage under the Bows, 
fore and aft under the Bowsprit, secure one end snug 
to the stern, then get a stout tackle from the extreme 
end of the Bowsprit, overhaul down and sling the 
outer end of the stage. Hook on your Tackle to the 
slings, lead your fall down on the stage, send the men 
down and bouse well taut so as to get the weight of 
the stage as much as possible on the Bowsprit. Now 
your stage being secured, you can proceed to Gam- 
mon your Bowsprit. Get two stout Luff Tackles on 
the Stage and a viol block, then get a span around 
the inner end of the stage to hook your viol block 
to, having your viol hooked, clinch your gammoning 
round your Bowsprit, with a running clinch or a 
running eye, jam your turn well round the Bowsprit, 
then reeve down through the gammoning hole up 
over the f a Bowsprit, then pass your end down through 
the Scuttle on to the stage, reeve it through the Viol 
Blocks, on the Stage, clap on your Luffs and bouse 
away, leading your fall fore and aft the stage. 

Note. Leading your fall in this way, has a tenden- 
cy to lift up the inner end of the stage, and of course 
your pulling down and the weight of the stage on 
the gammoning must certainly bring the Bowsprit 

snug down in its bed and set your gammoning up 

24 



-P£A£E 



raz. 




278 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

very taut, having got your first turn taut, rack it well, 
pass another, and so on until you fill up your Gam- 
moning Hole. Gammon your last turn under all 
parts of the gammoning on the opposite side of the 
Bowsprit, from the way you have passed your gam- 
moning; 

When you are setting up your gammoning, two 
men ought to attend with commanders to beat it 
solid round the Bowsprit. When they are setting upj 
some people use a great deal of Tar and Slush on a 
gammoning, but the less the better. A piece of good 
leather under your gammoning is much better than 
tarred parcelling, and when your gammoning is pass- 
ed, turn your leather over aft, and nail it down to the 
Bowsprit. Your Gammoning ought to be strapped 
with large strands in the room of rope, it being much 
better and softer to the Gammoning, and all well 
covered to protect it from the weather— if you use 
parcelling, let it be dry and new. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 



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280 



KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 



45. $• 46. A Cordage Table of feet and fathoms. 



ft. lis 


ft. 


ft. 


is. 


ft. 


ft. 


IS. 


ft. 


it. 


fs. 


ft. 


ft. 


fs. 


ft. 


ft. 


fs. 


ft- 


30 


5 


«i 


185 


30 


5 


340 


56 


4 


495 


82 


3 


650 


108 


2 


805 


134 


1 


35 


5 


5 


190 


31 


4 


345 


57 


3 


500 


83 


2 


655 


109 


1 


810 


135 


(( 


40 


C 


4 


195 


32 


3 


350 


58 


2 


505 


84 


1 


660 


110 


n 


815 


135 


5 


45 


7 


3 


200 


33 


2 


355 


59 


1 


510 


85 


(C 


665 


110 


5 


820 


136 


4 


50 


8 


2 


205 


34 


1 


360 


60 


c( 


515 


85 


5 


670 


111 


4 


825 


137 


3 


55 


9 


1 


210 


35 


u 


365 


60 


£ 


520 


86 


4 


675 


112 


3 


830 


138 


2 


60 


10 


u 


215 


35 


5 


370 


61 


4 


525 


87 


3 


680 


113 


2 


835 


139 


1 


65 


10 


5 


220 


36 


4 


375 


62 


3 


530 


88 


2 


685 


114 


1 


840 


140 


a 


70 


11 


4 


225 


37 


3 


380 


63 


2 


535 


89 


1 


690 


115 


(i 


845 


140 


5 


75 


12 




230 


38 


2 


385 


64 


1 


540 


90 


(i 


695 


115 


5 


850 


141 


4 


80 


13 


2 


235 


39 


1 


390 


65 


u 


545 


90 


5 


700 


116 


4 


855 


142 


3 


85 


14 


1 


240 


40 


(c 


395 


65 


5 


550 


91 


4 


705 


117 


3 


860 


143 


2 


90 


15 


(i 


245 


40 


5 


400 


66 


4 


555 


92 


3 


710 


118 


2 


865 


144 


1 


95 


15 


5 


250 


41 


4 


405 


67 


3 


560 


93 


2 


715 


119 


1 


970 


145 


« 


100 


16 


4 


255 


42 


3 


410 


68 


2 


565 


94 


1 


720 


120 


(( 


975 


145 


5 


105 


17 


3 


260 


43 


2 


415 


69 


1 


570 


95 


(t 


725 


120 


5 


880 


146 


4 


110 


18 


2 


265 


44 


1 


420 


70 


(i 


575 


95 


5 


730 


121 


4 


885 


147 


3 


115 


19 


1 


270 


45 


t< 


425 


70 


5 


580 


96 


4 


735 


122 


3 


890 


148 


2 


120 


20 


(; 


275 


45 


5 


430 


71 


4 


585 


97 


3 


740 


123 


2 


895 


149 


1 


125 


20 


5 


280 


46 


4 


435 


72 


O 


590 


98 


2 


745 


124 


1 


900 


150 


U 


130 


21 


4 


285 


47 


3 


440 


73 


2 


595 


99 


1 


750 


125 


ti 








135 


22 


3 


290 


48 


2 


445 


74 


1 


600 


100 


<( 


755 


125 


5 








140 


23 


2 


295 


49 


1 


450 


75 


t( 


605 


100 


5 


760 


126 


4 








145 


24 


1 


300 


50 


<( 


455 


75 


5 


610 


101 


4 


765, 


127 


3 








150 


25 


(i 


305 


50 


5 


460 


76 


4 


615 


102 


3 


770 


128 


2 








155 


25 


5 


310 


51 


4 


465 


77 


3 


620 


103 


2 


775 


12S 


1 








160 


26 


4 


315 


52 


3 


470 


78 


2 


625 


104 


1 


780 


130 


(< 








165 


27 


3 


320 


53 


2 


475 


79 


1 


630 


105 


« 


785 


130 


5 








170 


28 


2 


325 


54 


1 


480 


80 


<( 


635 


105 


5 


790 


131 


4 








175 


29 


1 


330 


55 


it 


485 


80 


5 


640 


106 


4 


795 


132 


3 








180 


30 


(i 


335 


55 


5 


490 


81 


4 


645 


107 


3 


800 


133 


2 









47. Weight of Cables of 120 fathoms from 3 to 24 

inches. 



111. 


lbs. 
252 


in. 
6 


lbs. 
1008 


in. 
9 


lbs. 
2268 


in. 
12 


lbs. 


in. > lbs. 


in. 


lbs. 


in 


lbs. 


in. 


lbs. 


3 


4032 


15 


6328 


18 


9072 


21 


12348 


24 


16128 


3* 


336 


6* 


1176 


9* 


2520 


m 


4368 


15* 


6720 


18* 


9520 


21* 


12936 


25 


17500 


4 


448 


7 


1340 


10 


2800 


13 


4732 


16 


7168 


19 


10108 


22 


13452 






4* 


560 


7i 


1568 


10* 


3080 


13* 


5056 


16| 


7616 


m 


10640 


22* 


14168 






5 


700 


8 


1792 


11 


3388 


14 


5480 


17 8092 


20 


11200 


23 


14840 






5* 


840 


8* 


2016 


Ul 


3696 


14* 


5880 


17il8568 


20| 


11760 


23* 


15456 







YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 281 

48. JEfoio many fathoms make 112 pounds. 



m 






to 






m 




xh 




« 






<D 






<D 




<D 




fljfl 






O rC 






<o A 




O) -C 




N g 






N O 






s; o 




N O 




02 .5 






.3 rf 

CG-3 






jc.S 








"- 1 


fms. 


feet 


in. 


fins. ' 


feet 


in. 


fms. 


ft 


in. 


fs. 


ft. 


in. 


'. " 







— 









— 







— 


— 




— 


— 


— 


1 


486 


c 


i 


4i 


24 


' 


c 


8 


7 


3 


6 


1H 


3 


4 


1 


n 


313 


3 


( 


41 


21 


3 


c 


8i 


7 


c 


8 


Hf 


3 


3 


3 


H 


216 


3 


( 


5 


19 


3 


c 


Si 


6 


4 


3 


12 


3 


2 


3 


If 


159 


3 


t 


5| 


17 


4 


i 


81 


6 


2 


1 


12i 


3 


2 


1 


2 


124 


3 


t 


5i 


16 


1 


i 


9 


6 


c 




12i 


3 


2 


< 


3* 


96 


2 


c 


5s 

•-'4 


14 


4 


i 


9i 


5 


4 




12f 


3 


1 


8 


2i 


77 


3 


c 


6 


13 


3 


I 


9i 


& 


2 




13 


2 


5 


3 


2f 


65 


4 


c 


6| 


12 


2 


i 


9| 


5 


< 




J3i 


2 


4 


9 


3 


54 


c 


i 


6* 


11 


3 


' 


10 


4 


5 




m 


2 


4 


c 


3i 


45 


5 


2 


- 6f 


10 


4 


( 


JOi 


4 


4 


1 


13f 


2 


3 


6 


3i 


39 


3 


c 


7 


9 


5 


( 


10i 


4 


2 


1 


14 


2 


2 


4 


3| 


34 


3 


9 


7i 


9 


1 


( 


10| 


4 


1 


t 










4 


30 


1 


6 


7| 


8 


4 


( 


11 


4 


< 


3 










4i 


26j 


5 


c 


7f 


8 


3 


6 


iii 


3 5 


7 











49. Proportions of Spars for Merchant Ships. 
Length of Spars. 

Main Mast equal to 2} times the Ship's beam. 

Fore " " " fths of the Main Mast. 

Mizen " " " fths " " " " 

Bowsprit f ds of the Main Mast, |d of which ought 
to be in board. 

Main Topmast fths of the Main Mast. 

Main Top Gallant Mast £of the Main Topmast, 
exclusive of the pole which is generally \ the length 
of the Topgallant Mnst or a little longer. 

Fore Topmast f of the Foremast. 

24* 



282 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

Fore Topgallant Mast f the length of the Foretop- 
mast, exclusive of the pole which is £ the length of 
the Top Gallant Mast. 

Mizen Topmast f of the Mizen Mast. 

Mizen Top Gallant mast £ the length of the Mizen 
Topmast, and the pole £ the length of the Top Gal- 
lant Mast. 

Jib Boom the length "of the Bowsprit, f of which 
length is rigged without the Bowsprit Cap. 

Main yard twice the ship's extreme breadth. 

Main Topsail yard f of the Main Yard. 

Main Top gallant yard f Main Topsail Yard. 

Fore yard -§- of the Main Yard. 

Fore Topsail Yard f of the Fore Yard. 

Fore Topgallant Yard f of the Foretopsail Yard. 

Royal Yards f the ^length of the respective Top 
Gallant Yards. 

Cross Jack Yards same length as the Main Top. 
sail Yard. 

Mizen Topsail Yard the same length as the Main 
Top Gallant Yards. 

Mizen Top Gallant Yard f of the Mizen Topsail 
Yard. 

Spritsail yards f of the Fore Topsail Yard. 

Remark. — Some have the Spritsail Yard the 
length of the Fore Topsail Yard, or nearly so, if it 
should be much shorter, the Jib sheets will chafe 
against the Spritsail Braces. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 283 

Spanker Boom the length of the Main Top sail 
yard; it is, however, made sometimes longer, ano 
sometimes shorter according to fancy. 

Mizen Gaff f of the Spanker Boom, liable to the 
same variation. 



50. Thickness of &pars. 



Masts* — It has been customary to allow for every 
3 feet of the Main Mast's length, one inch of diame- 
ter in the partners, nine-tenths of an inch diameter in 
the middle between the partners and the extremity of 
the head, and two thirds under the Hounds, and 
all other masts in the same proportion, and with 
these proportions, masts have been usually made. I 
am, however, of opinion, that If inch diameter in the 
nartners are much better. 



51. Yards, 



Yards, — For every 4 feet of their length, allow 
one inch of diameter in the slings, and half that di- 
ameter within the squares at the yard arm. 



51. Distance for placing Lower Masts, 

Fore Mast \ the length of Spar Deck from for- 
ward. Main Mast 2f as far from the Fore Mast: 
Note . The above rule is not to be considered 



284 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

proper for all vessels, their places must be governed 
by the form of the ship. 



52. Breadth of Tops. 

Main Top half the ship's beam. 
Fore Top f of the Main Top. 



54. Ride for placing Masts in a Ship. 

Take the Ship's length from the after part of the 
stem to the fore part of the Stern post and divide it 
into sevenths. Place the foremast one seventh of 
this length from the Stem, the Mainmast f from the 
Foremast, theMizen Mast f from the Main Mast, and 
then there will be but one seventh distance between 
the Mizen Mast and the Stern Post. This rule is for a 
full built ship, it must therefore be varied when ap- 
plied to vessels that are sharp, and the stem and stern 
posts of which rake. The foremast must according- 
ly be placed farther aft. the Mizen Mast farther for- 
ward, and the distance between the Masts proportion- 
ably regulated. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 285 

55. To find the tonnage of a vessel by the United 
States Measurement. 

The length is taken from the fore part of the Main 
Stern to the after part of the Stern post, the Beam is 
measured at the extreme breadth to the outside of 
the Bends, three fifths of this beam is taken off the 
length before the calculation is made. For a double 
decked vessel, half the breadth of beam is called the 
depth of hold, and for a single decked vessel it is the 
same, except that the hold is measured at the fore 
part of the Main Hatchway, from the Deck down to 
the ceiling alongside of the Keelson. 

To proceed on in this calculation after all the al- 
lowances have been made, the length must be multi- 
plied by the breadth, and that product by the depth 
of Hold, then divide the last product by 95, and the 
quotient will give the tonnage required. 

Formerly the British divided by 94 for merchant 
vessels and for ships of war by 100 ; but I have been 
informed that they now divide by 100 both for ships 
of war and merchantmen, which is the reason that 
they make our ship's tonnage less than we do. 

Notes on the tonnage of a vessel. 

The Ship Carpenters' tonnage in Philadelphia dif- 
fers from the United States measurement. 

A rule staff is laid under the keel projecting for- 



286 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

ward, a line is plumbed from the upper part of the fore 
part of the stern to the rule staff, the keel is measured 
from its after part to the plumb-line, and inclu- 
ding the Rule staff, this is called the length of Keel 
straight rabbit, the beam is measured from skin to 
skin on the inside, three fifths of the beam is taken 
off the keel straight rabbit, for the length, and the 
calculation in other respects is the same as United 
States measurement, so that the Carpenters' tonnage 
in Philadelphia will be less according to the rake of 
the Stern Post, &c. 

The dead rise of a vessel is found by having a staff 
half the beam from skin to skin, at the extreme 
breadth which staff is laid even across on the ceiling 
of the fore part of the Main Hatchway, one of the 
limber boards being taken up, a line is let fall from 
the staff to the skin alongside the Keelson, and what 
it measures, is the vessel's dead rise, so that in order 
to know how sharp a vessel is, it is customary to ask 
how much dead rise she has. 



56. Stepping and raking lower Masts. 

Foremasts of all ships should be stepped plumb or 
perpendicular to a water line, all Mainmasts should 
rake one inch to every four feet above deck, and all 
Mizen Masts should rake one inch to every three feet 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 287 

above deck. All Bowsprits should be stepped in a 
direct line drawn from the step of the Mainmast to 
the lower part of the Bowsprit bed, this line answers 
for the lower part of the Bowsprit. 

It has been the opinion of many Sea Officers that 
a mast by raking will aid a ship in sailing, but it has 
been satisfactory proved, that it has the contrary ef- 
fect ; for instance, a ship that has her masts perpen- 
dicular only has to bear them in two positions, the 
one on the step and the other on the side of support, 
her yards hang free, brace easy, and bear no strain 
against them, whereas a ship with her masts raking, 
has to bear them in three positions, the one on the 
step, one on the side of support, and the other, which 
is very great, on the fore and aft stays, her yards also 
hang very heavy against the Mast, which adds also 
to the fore support, this must cause a great check in 
the progressive movements in the ship. A sharp ves- 
sel or ship, with a lean harping by raking her masts, 
frequently eases her in pitching, but never adds to 
her sailing, the wind having less power on her sails, 
and the principal reasons why a ship's Main and 
Mizen masts should rake a little from her foremast, 
is, that by separating the masts in this way, the wind 
has a better chance of effecting its full power on all 
the sails, and of striking that part of them that other- 
wise would be of little or no advantage to the ship. 



288 



KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 



57. Method of an estimate of Standing and Run- 
ning rigging required for the outfit of a 44 Gun 
Frigate, U. 8. Navy. 





in. 


in. 


in. 


in. 


in. 


in. 


in. 


in. 

3 

3170 

90 

3260 


in. 


in. 


in. 


in 


in. 


Size 

Length 

Add 


124 
376 


n 

1087 
213 


1^ 

396 
604 


2 
1229 
* 71 


2* 

700 
100 


3t 

3793 

57 

385C 


2f 

76< 
9f 

350 


3i 

1000 
90 


3* 

2385 
90 


3! 

6140 

90 


4 

1280 
90 


4* 

114 

90 


Total 


500 


1300 


1000 


1300 


800 


1090 


2475 


6230 


1370 


204 





in. 


in. 


in. 


in. 


in. 


in. 


in. 


in. 

7 

110 

30 


in. 


in. 


in. 


in. 


in. 


Size 

Length 
Add 


4 1 - 

^2 

385 
90 


160 
90 

250 


5 

491 

90 


5| 
90 


5i 

15 
)0 

135 


6 

470 

50 


6* 

182 

58 


8 
11 

89 

100 


8* 
98 
2 


9 
31 


HI 

8 


12 

8 
c 


Total 


975 


581 


90 


520 


240 


140 


100 


31 


8 


8 



58. Shroud laid Cordage. 



In. Coils 



Fins. 



In. 



Coils Funs 



In. 



u 


5 


100 


4* 


7 


125 


n 


13 


100 




1 


J 00 


if 


10 


100 


4! 


2 


125 


2 


13 


100 


5 


4 


125 


2* 


8 


100 




1 


100 


2* 


30 


100 


5| 


1 


100 




1 


125 


5* 


1 


135 


2* 


6 


100 


6 


4 


100 




2 


125 




1 


125 


3 


29 


100 


6h 


2 


120 




3 


120 


7 


1 


140 


3* 


11 


100 


8 


1 


100 


3* 


21 


100 


8* 


1 


100 




3 


135 


9 


IP 


31 


31 


49 


125 


11* 


IP 


8 




1 


100 


12 


lp 


8 


4 


11 


125 








4* 


2 


125 









Cathead stoppers, 
Wind, « 
Shank Painters 
21 thread Ratline, 
18 " « 

15 " « 

12 " « 

9 " « 

6 " Seizings 
Hambroline, 
Marline > ,,. 
HouselineC whlte 
Worming 36 yarn 

Assorted 

Spinyarn 5 yarn 
<< 4 » 
« 3 it 

" 2 " 



Coils Fms. 



8 

7i 

' 2 

7 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 



289 



Note. Only one warp in a coil, each coil to be tallied with the 
size, number of fathoms and weight. The tallies to be either 
leather or Canvass. Each warp to be its full length, clear of fag 
ends, and proof strands, the proof strands to be six feet clear of fag 
ends. 



59. & 60. 44 Gun Frigate continued. 

Standing rigging 4 strand Cable laid. 



fms. 



Main Stay, 
Spring " 
Fore " 
Spring " 
Mizen 



17 


22 


4 


12^ 


22 


4 


16 


15 




12 


15 


2 


1 9 


16J 


[4 



3 Strand Cable laid Cordage. 



Fore and M. Mast 
head pendants, 

ForeShrouds, 

Main " 

Mizen " 

Inner & Middle Bob- 
stays, 

Cap Bobstay 

F. Topmast Shrouds 

Main Shrouds, 

Mizen do. 

F ore Top Standing ) 

B. stay, S 

Main do; 

Mizen do. 

F. T. Mast Bt. > 
Backstays, ) 

Main do. 

Mizen do. 

F. T. Gt. Shrouds 

Flying Jib Guys, 
" " Martingale, 

Gammoning 

Deck Stoppers, 

Buoy ropes, 

F. & M. Bentick&) 
Bowsprit shrouds ) 



10J 


1 

18 


101 


199 


10* 


249 


7i 


121 


8 


23 




17 


6i 


83 


6* 


111 


5 


55 


8 


78 


8 


84 


5| 


33 


6| 


70 


6i 


78 


H 


31 


4 


78 


3i 


39 


^3 

o 4 


36 


6* 


80 


10 


31 


8 


56 


J 3i 


71 



Main Shrouds, 

Mizen do. 

F. T. Gt. Spring) 
Back stays, \ 

Main do. 

Mizen do. 

F. T. Gt. Back stays 

Main do. 

Mizen do. 

Standing Jib stay, 
do. do. Guy, 

Travelling do. 

Martingale, 

Main T. Gt. Stay, 

Fore do. 

Mizen do. 

Flying Jib stay, 
2 Bumpkin shds. M..~) 
4 fk. shds.Catharpin ! 
2 legs & spank, boom [ 
Topping Lifts, J 

F.&M.ftk.shds.&> 

Catharpin legs, $ 

F. Tks. tapered each, 

2 Main do. do. 

2 Fore sheets do. 

12 Main do. do. 

25 



in- 



f ms- ft 



Fore Topmast Stay, 
" " Spring " 

Main " " 

" Spring '• 

Mizen " 

" Spring " 



8 


27 


7i 


27 


8 


26 


11 


19 


5 


12 


4 


& 



4 


88 


2i 


62 


4i 


92 


-4| 


103 


3i 


39 


4 


44 


4 


50 


2i 


38 


5 


33 


4 


64 


3i 


32 


4i 


59 


4f 


30 


4! 


35 


3i 


13 


4 


40 


5 


62 


6| 


95 


51 


31 


41 


32 


5 


32 


5 1 


31 



290 KEDGE ANCHOR, Oil 

61. Fore rigging to be in warps by pairs, 

fms> ft. 

■ 

1st warp to contain No. 1, 2 & 3, 64 2 
2d " " " « 4, 5, & 6, 66 4 

3d " « " " 7,8, & 9, 68 4 



fms. 199 



62. Main Shrouds in warps by pairs. 

fms. ft. 

1 st warp to contain, No. 1 , 2, & 3, 72 4 

2d « " « « 4, 5, & 6, 73 4 

3d " « « « 7, 8, 9, & 10, 102 4 



fms. 249 



63. Mizen rigging to be in one warp. 
No. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 & 6, pairs of shrouds, 121 fathoms. 

Main Topmast Shrouds to be in one warp. 

2 No. 1, 2, 3, 4,5, & 6, pairs of shrouds to contain 
111 fathoms, 4 feet. 



64; 44 Gun ship continued. 
Fore Topmast Shrouds in one warp. 

No. 1, 2, 3, 4, & 5, pairs of Shrouds to contain 83 
fathoms. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 



291 



Mizen Topmast Shrouds to be in one warp. 

No. 1, 2, 3 & 4, pair of shrouds to contain 55 fms, 
2 feet. 

Note. All the lower topmast, and topgallant rig- 
ging to be made their respective lengths, clear of fag 
ends and proof strands, and to be tallied with what 
they are for length, size, number of fathoms, and 
weight, either on wood or Canvass. 



Cat head Stoppers, 

Fish Davit Guys, 

2 Cat falls, 

Shank Painters, 

1 Deck Tackle fall, 

1 Fish Tackle fall, 

1 Catting Tackle fall, 

Rudder Pendants, 

1 Buoy rope, 

Back ropes for Cat and fish, 

Bitt Stoppers, 

60 lbs sewing & whipping twine 

150 lbs of Tallow, 

12 bbls Tar, 

15 sides sole leather, 

45 do. half Tanned do. 

25 do. Bellows do. 



15 lbs. white line, 

8 Galls. Fish Oil, 

2000 yards of old Canvass, 

4000 Scupper nails, 

2000 Pump Tacks, 

10 lbs. Clout Nails, 

8 lbs. Shoe Thread, 

4 Bunches Bristles, 

30 fms. 4 \ inch White rope, 

360 '• \\ inch signal haliards, 

12 awl blades, 

12 do. handles, 

50 assorted sail needles, 

12 Palm Plates, 

4 bolts new Canvass, 

20 Gallons Tan Oil. 



65. Estimate of Standing and Running Rigging 
required for the outfits of a Sloop of War of the 
1st Class mounting 22 Guns. 

4 Strand Cable laid Cordage. 





in. 


fins 

174 




in. 


fms. 


Main Stay, 


12 


F Top Main Stays, each 


6h 


39£ 


Spring Stay, 


9! 


ni 


^Main Topmast do. 


6£ 


21 


Fore Stay, 


12 


u 


« Spring " 


41 


lb$ 


Spring Stay, 


10 


n 


Mizen Topmast " 


4! 


n 


Mizen Stay, 


n 


12 


" Spring " 


3i9| 



292 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

Fore Shrouds by pairs, 8 inches, No. 1, 104 ft. No. 
2. 1 04i ft. No. 3, 105J ft. No. 4. 106 ft. No. 5, 109 ft. 
No. 6, 109^ ft,, to be in one warp. 120 fathoms. 

Main Shrouds, 8 inch by pairs, No. 1, 116 ft. No. 
2, 1163- ft. No. 3, 118 ft. No. 4, 118^ ft. No. 5, 120 
ft., No. 6, 120* ft. No. 7, 122 ft. to be in two warps. 

1st Warp to contain, No. 1, 2, 3, 4, 78 fms. 

2d do. do. " 5, 6, 7, 60 « 

Mast head pendants to 2d Warp, add 17 " 



155 fms. 



' Mizen Shrouds 5jj- inch by pairs, No. 1, 94 feet } 
No. 2, 94£ ft., No. 3, 95 ft., No. 4, 95£ ft., No. 5, 95 ft., 
in one warp to contain 80 fathoms. 

Fore Topmast Shrouds 4f- inch by pairs, No. 1, 76 
ft., No. 2, 76ft., No. 3, 77 ft. 6 in., No. 4, 77 ft. 10 in. in 
one warp to contain 52 fathoms. 

Fore Top Mast, S. Back Stays 5£- in. by pairs, No. 
1, 173 ft. No. 2, 173 ft. 6 in. in one wrap to contain 57 
fathoms. 

Main Top Mast, S. Back Stays, 5£ in. by pairs, 
No. 1, 190 ft., No. 2, 190 ft. 6 in. in one warp to con- 
tain 63 fms. 2 feet. 

Main Topmast Shrouds, 4f inch by pairs, No. 1, 
82 ft., No. 2, 83i ft., No. 3, 84£ ft., No. 4, 85 ft., in one 
wrap to contain 56 fathoms. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 



293 



Mizen Topmast S. Backstays, 4} inch, 148 feet is, 
24 fms. 4 feet. 

Mizen Topmast Shrouds 3f inch, No. 1, 64 feet, 
No. 2, 65, No. 3, 65, in one warp to contain 32 fms, 
2 feet. 



size 


J ins 


• Ift. 


5 


2S 


(C 


5 


31 


< C 


4i 


24 


4 


4* 


30 




3* 


23 




3 


22 




3* 


40 




4* 


28 




3* 


36 


5 


2| 


28 




3 


27 




3£ 


60 




31 


70 




(< 


35 




3| 


35 




3i 


65 




4* 


60 




3f 


76 




« 


38 




4f 


21 


(I 


41 


23 


(( 



size I fms. I ft. 



F.T.JVL Breast Back 
Stay, 

Main do. 1 pair, 

Mizen do. 

Standing Jib Stay, 
Guys, 

Travelling: " 

Martingale, 

F. T. G. Stay, 

Flying Jib do. 
Guys, 

Martingale, 

F. T. Gt. Shrouds, 

11 " Standing Back 
Stay, 

if 2 pair but if only 1 

F. T: Gt. B. Back- 
stays, 

M. T. Gt. Shrouds, 
" Stay, 

<{ Standing B. do. 

if 2 pair but if only 1 

F. Tacks tapered 
each. 

" Sheets, 



M. T. Gt. B. Back 

Stay, 
Mizen T. Gt. Stay, 
li Shrouds, 

11 S. Backstays, 
F. & M. Futtock and 

Catharpin Legs, 
Royal Stays, 

" Shrouds, 
Gammoning, 
Bowsprit Shrouds, 
Buoy Ropes, 
Inner Bobstays if 2 

if only one, 
Cap Bobstay, 
Bumpkin Shrouds, 
Mizen Futtock Shds. 
Cat harpin legs and 

Spanker bm. Top- 
ping Lifts, 
M. Tacks tapered 

each, 
" Sheets, 



3* 


38 


2* 


9 


n 


50 


<*§ 


30 


4^ 


160 


2 


53 


If 


53 


5* 


32 


6 


25 


6 


26 


6* 


19 


7 


9 


H 


12 


31 


62 


4i 


25 


41 


22 



Note. All the foregoing Cordage to be cable laid 
and to measure their lengths on the stretch, clear of 
fag ends and proof strands, each coil and warp to be 
tallied with what they are for, weight, size, number 
of fathoms, either on wood or canvass.. 



25' 



294 HEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

66. Running rigging Shroud laid. 



size 


fms 


coils. 


size 


fms. 


coils/ 


size 


fins. 


coils. 


1 


362 


2 


2| 


110 


1 


4* 


79 


1 


n 


550 


3 


2| 


1855 


18 


4* 


289 


3 


H 


800 


6 


o 
O 


745 


7 


4i 


80 


1 


if 


800 


8 


3* 


136 


1 


43 


207 


2 


2 


1722 


16 


3} 


1855 


18 


5i 


379 


4 


2* 


180 


1 


3i 


400 


4 


6i 


90 


1 


a* 


844 


4 


^3 

o 4 


389 


4 


61 


87 


1 


2| 


1685 


16 


4 


261 


3 









Note All the running rigging to be their full 
length, clear of fag ends and proof strands, the proof 
strands to be 6 feet clear of the fag ends. Every 
coil to be tallied with the weight, size and fathoms, 
either on wood or Canvass. 





in. Inns. 1 | 


in. |fms. 


Cat head Stoppers, 


6 


10 


Hambroline, 


200 


lbs- 


Wing do. 


5 


16 


Houseline while 


85 


u 


Bitt do. 


5 


16 


Marline, 


85 


it 


Shank Painters, 


5 


12 


Tallow, ^, 


150 


(i 


21 thread Ratline, 




400 


Tar, 


7 


bis. 


18 do. do. 




200 


Sole leather, 


10 


side 


15 do. do. 




250 


Half tanned do. 


31 


(i 


12 do. do. 




200 


Bellows, do. 


17 




9 do. do- 




250 


Sewing Twine. 


25 


lbs. 


6- do. do. 




600 


Whipping do. 


15 


(< 


White Line, 


10 


ths. 


Palm plates, 


12 


« 


Old Canvass, 


1334 


yds. 


Worming 24 yarn 


4 


coil 


Scupper Nails, 


2667 




do. 30 do. 


1 


<( 


Clout Nails, 


6* 


ths. 


do, Assorted, 


3 


« 


Pump Tacks, 


1300 




Spinyarn 5 yarn, 


5 


(c 


Shoe Thread, 


3 


ths. 


do. 4 do. 


5 


K- 


Bristles, 






bun. 


do. 3 do. 


9 


U 


Sail needles ass. 


50 




do. 2 do. 


12 


if 


Awl Blades, 


12 




White rope, f inch, 


25 


fms 


" Handles, 


12 




Signal Haliards, 


340 


<« 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 



295 



67. Dimensions of the Standing and Running of 
a Ship of the Line, U. 8. Navy. 



Bowsprit. 

Gammoning, - 

Shrouds, Cabled 3 pr. 

Collar, 

Bobstays, 3, 12J, 11§ 

9 inches. 
Collars, - 
Man Ropes, - 



m 



Spritsail Yaid. 



Slings, 
Lifts, 

Foot ropes, 
Stirrups, - 
Braces, 



Jib Boom. 

Jib Stay Cabled, 

Guy pendants, 3 pairs, 

Falls, 

Martingale Stay, 

Pendants, 

Halyards, 

Sheets, - 

Downhaul, 

Outhauler, 

Upper Brails, 

Lower " 

Boom foot Ropes, 



Flying Jib Boom. 

Flying Jib Stay, C'bl'd, 
Martingale Guy, 2 prs. 
Boom Guys, 
Heel Rope, 
Foot Ropes, 
Halyards, 



128 
56 
15 

16 

15 
17 



4* 
16 

7* 
i 

s 

62 



GA 


45 


U 


70 


3 


c( 


5 


53 


41 




31 


65 


4* 


70 


3f 


42 


4f 




H 


60 


3 


35 


4 


18 



50 
65 
60 
36 
12 
55 



Sheets, 
Downhaul, 



Jib of Jib Boom. 

Jib of Jib Stay, 
Boom Guys, 
Heel Rope, 
Foot Ropes. 
Halyards, 
Sheets, 
Downhaul, 
Martingale Stay, 



Fore Mast and Yard. 

Shrouds Cabled, 10 prs, 

Lanyards, 

Ratlines, 

Stay Cabled, - 

Lanyards, 

Collar, - 

Preventer Stay Cabled, 

Lanyards, 

Collar, double, 

Catharpin legs, 

Bentick Shrouds, 

Lanyards, 

Jeer Pendants, 

Falls, - 

Yard Lifts, 

" Gluarter Lifts, 

" foot Ropes, 

" Stirrups, 

" Tackle pendants, 

'< " falls, - 

Braces, - 

Preventer, - 



Fore Yard and Mast. 
Truss pendants, 



IB. 

21 



3i 

2| 

2! 

2! 

2! 

•2 

3 



H 

51 
2* 
17 

6 
9 

13* 
Bi 

71 
7 
8h 
4i 
10 
5 
61 
H 
5 
4 
7 
4 
5 



fms. 

40* 
35 



53 

47 

45 

9 

64 
50 
40 
75 



245 



17 

18 

17 



171 

28 

116 

100 

52 

21 

24 

12 

112 

16 

83 



12 



296 



KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 



fins 



Truss Falls, - 
Slings, - 
Lanyard, 

Fo*'e Tacks, Cabled, 
Sheets, " 
Clew Garnets, 
Reef Pendants, 
Buntline " 

" Whips, 
Bowlines, 

« Bridles, 
Slab Lines, 
Bill tricing Lines, 
Gluarter "' tr 
Clew Jiggers, 
Lift 

Bunt " 
In & Out " 
Storm stay, 
« " sail Hal. 
" " sheets, 
" Downhaul, 
Lower St'g. sail outer 

Halyards, 
Lower St'g. sail inner 

Halyards, 
Lower Sheets, 
" Tacks, 
" Boom Top. Lfts. 
« Whips, 
" After Guys, - 
" Forward Guys, 
St'g. sail Gear Tricing 
Line, - 



3* 40 



(i 
it 
tt 

it 

<< 
« 
(( 
u 
(< 
ii 

(C 

ii 
(( 
it 
tt 
tt 
it 
tt 



F. Top Mast and Yard 

Shrouds Cabled 6 pairs, 

Lanyards 

Ratline - 

Stay Cabled, - 

Spring stay, 

Breast Back Stays - 

Standing do. do. 2 prs. 

Futtock Shrouds, 

Ratline, - 



3 
2 
1 
3* 

3 
3 
3 

3! 

4* 
3 

4! 

3! 

3 

4! 

5* 

3| 

3| 

3J 

34 



31 
If 

8* 

' a 

7 
7 
7 
If 



9 
24 

68 

84 

60 

8 



66 

58 
40 
48 
70 
50 
34 
56 

37 
36 
21 

100 

55 

26 
66 
50 
40 
86 
91 

43 



124 



32 
32 
76 
79 



Top Rope Pendants, 

Falls, 

Top Burton pendants, 
" " Falls, - 
Topsail Yard Tyes, 
" Parrel, 
" Foot Ropes, 
" yard Stirrups, 
" Braces, 
k Lifts 

11 Rolling Tackle 
11 Downhaul do. 
" Haliards, - 
Sheets double, 
Reef Pendants, 
" Whips, 
Buntlines, - 
Pendants, - 
Bowlines, - 
Bridles, 
Clewlines, - 
Bunt Jiggers, 
Clew 

T. M. Staysail Halyds, 
Sheets, 

Tacks, each - 
Downhaul, 
Boom Braces, 
Brace Pendants, 
Tricing Line, 



F. T. G. Mast & Yard. 

Shrouds Cabled, 3 prs. 
Lanyards, 
Ratline, - 
Stay Cabled, - 
Lanyard, 

B. BackStays, Cabled) 
1 pair, S 

Standing Back Stays ) 
1 pair, 5 

Lanyards, B. B. S. - 
Lanyards, S. B. S. - 
Mast Rope, 



fms. 



b 

4 


5 

115 


7 


42 


7 




41 


16 


4* 


116 


6 


74 


31 


20 


3! 


47 


4i 


114 


7 


80 


41 


45 


31 


74 


3! 


74 


4 


28 


41 

^2 


70 


4 


95 


31 


58 


31 


52 


4 


47 


3 


60 


3i 


94 


41 


5 


3* 


46 


U 


33 


3 




4f 


43 


4 


47 


4i 


49 


Bi 




2f 




7 


60 



YOUNG SAILORS ASSISTANT. 



297 



X _ 


in. 


fins. 

~7o 


• 


in. 
"~2i 


fms. 


Pendant, 


, Stdg. Sail Sheets, - 


~~33 


Falls, 


4 


48 


" " " " Tacks, - 


2i 


40 


Yard Rope, 


7 


60 


" " " Downhaul, 


15 th 


39 


" Lifts, 


4f 
3 


60 
122 








" Braces, - 






" Foot Ropes, 


H 


JO 


Fore Ski/sail Mast and 






" Stirrups, - 






Yard. 






" Tyes, 
Top Gallant Halyards, 
" Sheets, 


6^ 
3| 

4i 


11 

48 
80 


Trysail Stay, - 
li Back Stay, 


2i 
9| 


57 
63 


" " Buntlines, 


2f 


74 


" Mast Rope, 


3 


63 


11 " Bowlines, 


2f 


98 


" Halyard, 


2 


56 


" " Bridles, 






" Sheets, 


1! 


54 


« " Clewlines, 


3 


76 


" Tripping Line, 


15^ 


24 


Bunt Jigger," - 


2* 


12 








Sty. Sail Halyards, - 
11 Sheets, 


3| 

2* 


90 

28 


Fore Moon Sail Pole. 






" Tacks, 


2* 


60 


Moon sail Halyards If, 


m 


46 


" B. Tricing line, 


2| 


32 










Main Mast and Yard. 








F. R. Mast and Yard. 


















Shrouds Cabled, 11 prs. 


m 


300 


Royal Shrouds cabled, 


3| 


39 


Lanyards, 


51 




Lanyards, 






Ratline, 


2i 




" Stay Cabled, - 


3 


51 


Stay Cabled, - 


18 


32 


Lanyards, 






Lanyard, 


6 




" B. Bk. S. cabled, 


o 
O 


56 


Collar, 






Lanyards, 






Preventer Stay Cabled, 


14i 


32 


" Standing B. } 
Backstays cabled, J 


°2 


57 


Lanyards, 


6 




Collar, 






Lanyards, 






Catharpin Legs, 


7 




Mast Rope, 


4i 

^2 


65 


Bentick Shrouds, 


8* 


22 


" Yard Rope, 


4| 


65 


Lanyards, 






" " Lifts, 


3A 


58 


Lashings, 






" " Braces, - 


2| 


78 


Jeer pendants, 


10 


30 


" " Foot Ropes, 


3 


7i 

* 2 


« Falls, 


5 


132 


" " Halyards, 


3 


24 


Stay Tackle Pendants, 


7 


5 


" " Sheets, - 


2| 


42 


" Fall, - 


4* 


50 


" " Buntlines, 


2| 


44 


Yard Lifts, 


6i 


106 


" " Bowlines, 


2| 


55 


" Gtuarter Lift, - 


<£ 


60 


" " Bridles, - 






•' Foot Ropes, 


51 
^2 


24 


" " Clewlines, 


2i 


42 


" Tackle Pendants, 


7 


13 


" " Bunt Jigger, 






" «« Falls, - 


3i 


120 


" " Tripp, line, 


2 


32 


" Braces, 


5| 


120 


t( a Stdg. Sail 






Preventer " 


(< 


77 


Halyards, 


2| 


66 


Brace Pendants, 




11 



298 



KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 



Yard Truss Pendants, 
Falls, - 
Slings, - 
Lanyards, 
Main Tacks, Cabled, 
Preventer " 
Sheets, 
Clew Garnets, 
ReefPendants, 
Buntline " 

" Whips, 
Bowlines, 

Runners, 
" Bridles, 
Leechlines, 
Slablines, 
Bill Tricing Lines, 
Quarter " 
Clew Jiggers, 
Lift 

Bunt " 
In & Out " 

M. Storm staysail Stay, 
" " Halyard s> 
, " u Sheets, 
> " " Downhaul, 



Main Topmast <£* Yard. 

Shrouds, Cabled, 7 prs. 
Lanyards, 
Ratline, 
Stay, Cabled, - 
Lanyard, 
Spring Stay Cabled, 

Lanyard, 
B. Backstay, Cab'd, 2 p. 
Standing " 2 p. 

Lanyard B. B. S. - 
" S. B. S. - 
Futtock Shrouds, 
" Ratline, 
Top rope pendants, 
" " Falls, 
" Burton " 
" " pendants, 



7 

15 
6 
7 
7 
i 

4i 
41 
3| 
3f 
3 
3f 

3 

2 
2 

H 

3* 

°2 

3 
3 

8 

4r 

4| 



7 

7! 

4| 

44 
7 

l! 
9 
5 
4 
6 



fms. 

~iT 

44 
10| 

96 
12 
96 
70 
10 
49 
70 
24 
10 

54 

100 
40 
48 
80 
56 
34 
70 
19 
46 
42 
44 



151 

30 

20 

90 
94 



1921 
123 
120 
6 



Topsail Tye, 
Parrel long leg, 
' short leg, 
Topsail Foot Ropes, 
" Stirrups, 
" Yard Braces, 
" '• Lifts, 
" " RoLTack 
" " Down. " 
Topsail Halyards, 
" Sheets, 
" ReefPendants, 
« " Whips, 
Buntlines, 

" Pendants, 
Bowlines, 

Bridles, 
Clew lines, 
Clew Jiggers, - 
Bunt « 
T.M. Staysail stay, (see 
Spring stay.) 
" Halyards, 
" Sheets, 
" Tacks, 

Downhaul, 
Middle Staysail stay, 
" " Halyards, 
" " Sheets, 
" « Tacks, 
" " Downhaul 
Studding sail Halyard, 
" Sheets, 
" Tacks, 
" Downhaul, 
Boom Braces, 
" Pendants, 
" Tricing Lines- 



M. T. Gt. M. and Yard. 

T. G. Shrouds cabled 

3 pairs, 

Lanyards, 

Ratline, 
Stay Cabled, - 



7 


46 


7 


17 ft 


7 


9 ft 


4* 


17* 


4 


18 


5 


88 


6 


80 




26 


31 


50 


41 


124 


7 


86 


41 


54 


3* 


80 


31 


82 


H 


32 


4* 


70 


3| 





4 
34 

44 

3 

4 

4 

3 

3 

3 

4 1 
4 a 

3 

34 

41 

3° 



YOUNG SAILOR ? S ASSISTANT. 



299 





in. 


fms. 




in. 


iUS. 


Lanyard, 






Yard Rope, 


Ti 


~70" 


Standing Bk. Stays 1 pi- 


5 


56 


" Lifts, 


3| 


74 


Lanyards, 






" Braces, - 


3 


73 


Mast Pendants, 


7 


12 


" Foot Ropes, 




7| 


" Falls, 


4i 


62 


" Stirrups, 






Mast Rope, 


7 


67 


" Halyards, 




28 


Yard Rope, 


7 


67 


" Sheets, - 


3 


52 


« Lifts, 


4 


64 


" Buntlines, 


21 


50 


" Braces, - 


3i 


96 


" Legs, 






** Foot Ropes, - . 


3* 


114 


'• Bowlines, 


2i 


60 


Yard Stirrups, 


2f 




" Bridles, 






« Tye, 


n 


12 


" Clewlines, 


21 


48 


Top Gallant Halyards, 


4 


56 


Bunt Jigger, 






" Sheets, 


U 


88 


Tripping LiHe, - 


2 


34 


" Buntlines, 


n 


80 


R. Staysail Stay, cabl'd 


3 


43 


" Bowlines, 


2f 


84 


" Halyards, 


2* 


57 


" Bridles, ' 






Royal Staysail Sheets, 


11 


63 


Clewlines, 


3 


86 


" " Tacks, 


2ir 


4 


Bunt Jigger, 


n 


12 


" " Downhaul 


2 


22 


Up. T. G. Stay S. Stay, 


31 


45 


Studg. sail Halyards, 


21 


84 


«' Haliards - 


3i 


52 


" " Sheets, 


If 


35 


« Sheets, 


2f 


48 


" " Tacks, 


2 


56 


« Tacks, - 


2| 5 


" " Downhaul, 


15 lh 


I 43 


" Downhaul, 


4i 


35 

40 








L. " Stay S. Stay 


Main Skysail Mast fy 




" Haliards, - 


3 


48 


Yards. 






" Sheets, 


2| 


44 








'• Tacks, - 


n 


5 


Skysail Stay; 


n 


35 


" Downhaul, 


2i 


33 


" Back Stays, 


2i 


61 


T. Gt. Std. S. Haliards, 


3£ 


108 


11 Mast Rope, 


3i 


66 


« " Stieets, 


21 


44 


" Halyards, 


2 


42 


" " Tacks, 


2! 


38 


" Sheets, 


1^ 

* * 


56 


" " Tricing 






u Tripping Line, 


15* 


27 


Lines, 


!8th 


35 














Main Moon Sail Pole. 






M. Royal M. and Yard. 






Moonsail Halyards, 


n 


50 


Shrouds cabled, 2 pairs 


3! 


42 








Lanyards, 






Stay, - 


3! 


31 


Mizen Mast <$<■ Crost 






Breast Back Stay, 1 pr. 


3! 


62 


Jack Yard. 






Lanyards, 






Shrouds Cabled 7 pairs, 


71 


166 


Standing Bk. Stay, 1 pi- 


31 


64 


Lanyards, 






Lanyards, 






Ratline, 


1* 




Mast Rope, 


41 


70 


|Stay Cabled, - 


9 


20i 



300 



KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 





in. 


fins 




in. 

3 


fms. 


Lanyard, 


Lanyards, 




Collar, - 






Ratline, 


18th 




Catharpin Legs, 






Stay Cabled, - 


6 


13 


Cross Jack Yard Lifts, 


41 




Preventer do. 


5 


13 


" Foot Ropes, 


Si 


18 


Breast Back Stay, I p, 


5 


37 


" Stirrups, 






Lanyards, 






" Braces, 


3i 


68 


Standing B'k Stays 1 p. 


6 


39 


" Truss pend'ts, 


5 


4 i 


Lanyards, 






" " Falls. 


3 


18 


Futtock Shrouds, 


5h 




11 Slings, 


8 




Ratline, 


18 th 




Spanker Boom Topping 






Top rope Pendants, 


e, 


17 


Lifts, - 


H 


40 


Falls, 


3| 


47 


" " " Falls, 


3h 


48 


Burton Pendants, 


5 


4 


11 Guy Pendants, 


5 


8 


" Falls, - 


3! 


45 


" Falls, 


3 


40 


Topsail Yard Tye, 


6 


17 


11 Sheets, 


34 


50 


" Parrells, 


SJ 




Foot Ropes, 


3 




Foot Ropes, 


4 


13 


Onthauler, 


5 


35 


Stirrups, 






Peak Brails, 


2i 


38 


Braces, 


°4 


82 


Throat do. 


31 


40 


Lifts, 


AS. 

^4 


30 


Middle do. 


3 


40 


Rolling Tackles, 


3 


19 


Foot do. 


31 


40 


Downhaul do. 


3| 


33 


" Peak Halyards. 


4 


60 


Halyards, 


oh 


52 


" Throat do. 


4 


40 


Topsail Sheets, 


5 


60 


11 Vang Falls, 


3h 


53 


ReefPendants, 


H 


34 


" Staysail Stay, 


5k 


18i 


" « Whips, 


3 


70 


" Halyards, 


oh 


32" 


" Buntline Pendants, 


3| 


30 


" Sheets, 


4i 


11 


" Whips, 


3 


60 


" Tack, 


2h 


10 


Bowlines, 


3 


51 


" Downhaul, 


3i 


18 


Clue lines, 


3i 


77 


,c Brails, 


31 


40 


Clue Jiggers, 






Storm " Stay, 






T. M. Staysail Stay, 






" Halyards, 


3i 


37 


(see Spring Stay,) 






" " Sheets, 


4| 


11 


" " Halyards, 


ok 


34 


" " Downhaul, 


3 


15 


" " Sheets, 


3 


28 


" Mizen Peak, 




i 


" " Tacks, 


2 


12 


« " Halyards, 


4 


60 


t( tl Downhauls, 


2i 


23 


cc Throat do. 


4 


40 


Middle Staysail Stay, 


31 


20 


" " Sheets, 


4 


40 


Halyards, 


3i 


30 


" u Downhaul, 


3 


38 


Sheets, 


3 


27 


Ringtail Halyards, 






Tacks, 


21 


7 


Tack, 


3 


40 


Downhaul, 


2* 


26 






YTlo-ff r P/-*.V^c<0 ll Tci^lr QfQTT 


H 


12i 






uau a. ujjoaii ^ tn-n >ji«ji , 




Mizen Topmast and 






" " Halyards, 


31 


25" 


Yard. 






" " Tack, 


3 




Topmast Shrouds, Ca- 






" " Outhauler, 


2h 


17 


bled 5 pair, 


5* 


88 


" V Downhaul, 


2 


26 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 



301 



M. V. Gt. M. Cf- Yard. 

Shrouds cabled 3 pairs, 
Lanyards, 
Ratlines, 
Stay, 

Lanyards, 
B. Back Stay, 1 pair, 

Lanyards, 
Stand. Bk. Stay, 1 pair, 

Lanya r d 
Mast Pendants, 

" Fall, 
Mast Rope, 
Yard Rope, » - 

" Lifts, - 
lt Braces, 
" Foot Ropes, 
" Stirrups, 
" Tye, - - 

" Halyards, 
" Sheets - 
" Buntlines, 
" Bowlines, 
" " Bridles, 

" Clew lines, 
" Bunt Jiggers, - 
T. Gt. Staysail Stay, 
" Halyards, 
" Sheets, 
" Tacks, 
11 Downhaul, 
T. Gt, Std. sail Halyds. 
" " Sheets, 
« " Tacks, 
" Tricinjr line 



Mizen R. M. and Yard. 

Shrouds cabled, 2 pair, 

Lanyards, 
Stay Cabled, - 
Breast Backstays 1 pr 

Lanyards, 
Stand. Bk Stays 1 pair 

Lanyards, 
Mast Rope, 
Yard Rope, 



3| 

U 

18* 

3! 



fms. 



28 

19 
44 
45 



5 1 


9 


3 


45 


6 


54 


6 


54 


H 


60 


H 


72 


o 


8 


5 


9 


3 


40 


4 


53 


*i 


30 


»i 


70 


2* 


70 


2* 


12 


4 


23 


2 


38 


2? 


37 


2^ 


4 


2 


14 


21 


75 


9* 


17 


2i 


24 


21 


27 


o 
O 


24 




22 


21 


52 


3 


53 


31 


52 


3i 


54 



Yard Litts, 

" Braces, - 

" Foot Ropes, 

" Stirrups, - 

" Halyards, 

" Sheets, 

c< Buntlines, 

" Bowlines, 

" " Bridles, 

Clewlines, 
Bunt Jigger, 
Tripping Line, 
Royal Staysail Stay, 
" Halyards, 
Sheets, 
Downhaul, 



R.StdgSail Halyards, 
Sheets, 
" Tacks, 

Downhaul 



Miz. Sky sail M.fy Yard 

Skysail Mast Rope, - 
" Halyards, 
" Sheets, 
" Stays, 
Back " 



Moon Sail Pole. 
Moonsail Halyards, - 



Miscellaneous Rigging 

Cat falls, 

Pish falls, 

Cat head stoppers, 

Shank Painters, 

But Stoppers, 

iiling Stoppers, 

Deck Tackle, 

Pore Stay Tackles, - 

Main Stay Tackles, 
a a Pendants, 
" Boats Falls, - 

Stern Boats Falls. 

Ifter Gluarter B'ts. - 

Forward Boats Fall, 

vVaist Boats Falls, 

26 



2i 
3 

2* 
2 

li 



18* 
15 
15 
15 



2i 

If 

18* 

II 

2 

U 



6 

9 
8 
7 
7± 

4± 
7 

4i 
4 
4 
3 



302 



KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 



66: An Estimate of the size and quantity of Blocks 
required to Jit out a Ship of the Line. 



8 
9 

10 

11 

12 

13 

14 

15 

16 

1 

18 

19 



20 
21 
22 
23 
24 
25 
26 
27 



Jib of Jib Downhaul. 

Jib of Jib Downhaul, 

Martingale Stay on Boom end, 
do. do. Tackle, 
do. do. do. 

Guy Tackle, 
do. 

Halyards at royal mast head, 



Flying Jib Boom. 

Martingale Stay on Boom end, 

do. do. Tackle, 

do. do. do. 
Downhaul on Beam on end, 
Fore Royal Bowline do. - 
Flying Jibstay Tackle, 

do. do. 

Guy Tackle, 

do. r 

Sheets in Clew of sail, 
Halyards at the F. T. Gallant M. H., B. S. 
Head and Heel ropes, Flying Jib boom, 



Jib Bjoom. 

Martingale Stay on Boom end, 
do. do. Tackle, 
do. do. do. 
Jib Downhaul, - 

Brails on Jib stay, - . 

do. leading on Boom end, 
Jib Outhauler, - 

F. T. Gallant Bowline on the Boom end, 



«3 






,c 








o 


3 


O) 


ra 


c 


C, 


i- 


T3 






crt 




a 




a 


O 






Ul 


fe 


<D 


£ 






32 


1 


(i 


S 


6 


2 


4 


s 


6 


3 


1 


D 


6 


3 


1 


S 


6 


2 


2 


D 


7 


2 


2 


S 


/ 


1 


n 


s 


7 


2 


1 


s 


7 


2 


a 


s 


6 


2 


a 


D 


6 


1 


1 


s 


7 


2 


1 


s 


6 


1 


(( 


D 


9 


1 


K 


s 


9 


2 


1 


D 


10 


2 


1 


s 


10 


2 


4 


s 


9 


1 


1 


s 


7 


3 


u 


s 


8 


2 


I 


D 


11 


2 


2 


s 


11 


2 


u 


D 


11 


1 


2 


S 


8 


2 


u 


s 


6 


2 


a 


s 


7 


1 


1 


s 


11 


2 


1 


s 


7 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 



303 



28 
29 
30 
31 
32 
33 
34 
35 
36 
37 
38 
39 



40 
41 
42 
43 
44 
45 
46 
47 
48 

49 
50 

51 
5-2 
53 

54 



55 
56 
57 
58 
59 



Standing Jib Guy Tackle 

do. do. 

Travelling Jib Guy Tackle, 

do. do. 

Jib Stay Tackle, - 
Jib Stay Tackle, - 
do. Sheets in clew of Sail, 
Jib boom heel ropes on Cap, 
Heel rope Taekle for Jib Boom, 

do. do. 

Jib Halyards in head of Sail, 

do. T. Mt. Trussle Trees, Iron bound, 



Bowsprit. 

Spritsail Lifts on the Yard Arm, 

do. on Bowsprit, 

do. Brace on the Fore Stay, 

Fore Top Bowline, 
Fore Bowline, - 

Fore Topmast Staysail Downhaul, 
do. do. Halyards in head of Sail, 
do. do. ' do. on the F. T. M 

Trussle Trees, Iron bound, 
do. do. Sheets in clew of sail, 
Fore Storm Staysail Stay on the Bow- 
sprit, B. S. 
do. do. do. Downhaul, 

Fore Staysail Halyards in head of sail, 
do. do. on Trussle Trees, 
do. do. Sheets in clew of sails, 



Fore Mast and Yard. 

Runners for Topmast, B. S. 
Tackles for do. 

do. do. 

Fore Truss Tackles, 
do. do. 





CO 




•7S 






crt 


o 


3, 


fn 


'1 




T 


D 


i 


s 


i 


D 


l 


S 


l 


D 


j 


S 


4 


S 


1 


s 


«< 


D 


« 


s 


2 


s 


1 


s 


1 


s 


(C 


s 


1 


s 


1 


s 


1 


s 


1 


s 


1 


s 


1 


s 


1 


s 


u 


s 


1 


s 


(c 


s 


(t 


s 


(t 


s 


■2 


s 


2 


D 


2 


s 


1 


D 


1 


s 



304 



HEDGE ANCHOR, OH 



60 Fore Jeer Runner, B. S. 

61 do. Tackle, - 

62 Leaders for do. - 

63 Quarter Blocks on Fore Yard, B. S. 

64 Topsail Sheets on Yard Arm, 

65 Slablines on Yard, — 

66 Clue Garnets on Yard, 

67 do. on Clew of Sail, 

68 Buntlines on Fore Yard, 

69 do. under Top, 

70 Fore Buntlines, - 

71 Fore Leechlines on Yard, 

72 do. under Top, 

73 Fore Leechlines, - 

74 After do, on Fore Yard, 

75 do. do. leading under Top, 

76 After Leechlines, - 

77 Fore Yard Tackle, 

78 do. do. 

79 do. do. Leaders, 

80 Bill and Ctuarter Tricing Lines, 

81 Fore Brail on Yard Arm, 

82 do. leading on M. Trussle trees, 

83 Preventer Braces on Yard Arms, 

84 Leading do. on Bowsprit, 

85 Fore Lifts on Cap span, 

86 do. do. on Yard Arm, 

87 do. do. on Jigger Tackle, - 
83 do. do. do. do. 

89 Clew Jiggers,- - 

90 Bunt Jiggers, - 

91 do. do. - 

92 Fore Reef Tackle on yard, double scored 

93 do. do. on Leech of sails, 

94 Bumpkin Blocks Fore Tack, B. S. - 

95 Fore Tacks on Clew of sail, B. S. - 

96 Fore sheet on do. do. B. S. - 

97 Swinging Boom Topping Lifts, 

98 do. do. do. Whips, - 

99 Pendants for outer Stud, sail Halyds. 

100 Outer Stud, sail Halyards, on Boom, 

101 [nner do do. on Yard, 



5 * 




<X> rj 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 



305 




102 
103 
104 
105 
106 
107 
108 
109 
110 



Leading do. do. on Quarter, 

Tricing Lines, - 

Lower Studding sail Downhaul, 
Swinging Boom Brails, 

do. After Guys, 

do. Forward do. 
Leading do. on Spritsail yd. - 
Studding sail Tacks, on Boom end, - 
Tricing Lines for Std. sail Gear, 



111 

112 

113 

114 

115 

116 

117 

118 

119 

120 

121 

122 

123 

124 

125 

126 

127 

128 

129 

130 

131 

132 

133 

134 

135 

136 

137 

138 

139 



Fore Topmast and Yard. 

Top Block B. S. iron bound - 

Top Tackle, - 
Leaders, for do. 

Fore Top Burton, - - - 

do. do. do. 
dot do. Runners, - 
F. T. Mt. B. Backstays, turned in, - 
do. do. do. iron bound, 

Travelling Bk. Stays, 

do. do. do. iron bound, - 
Gin Blocks, Topsail Ties, B. S. - 
Topsail ties on yard, B. S. - 

Fore Topsail Halliards, (Fly)B. S. - 
do. do. do. B. S. - 

Leaders for do. B. S. - 

Fore Top sail Brace on yard, 
Fore Topsail Brace on Collar of M. Stay, 
do. do. under M. Trussle trees, 
Reef Tackle and Lifts, B. S. 
Leaders in Fore Top for Topsail Lifts, 
Fore Topsail Lift Jiggers, 

do. do. 

Downhaul Tackles, 

do. do. - - 

Quarter Blocks on Topsail Yard, 
Clewlines in Topsail, 
Roiling Tackles, 

do. do. 
For*- Topsail Buntline at Mast head, 

26* 



2 




S 


4 




D 


2 




S 


2 




Fiddle. 


2 




S 


2 




S 


4 




D 


4 




Tripple 


2 




D 


2 




Tripple 


2 




S 


2 




S 


2 




D 


2 




S 


2 




S 


2 




s 


2 




s 


2 




s 


2 




Sister. 


2 




S 


2 




D 


2 




S 


1 




D 


1 




S 


2 




D 


2 




S 


1 




D 


1 




S 


2 


2 


1 S 



306 



HEDGE ANCHOR, OR 











Xfl 


GQ 










V 


£ 




6 
3 
O 

o 




09 

o 

6 


-G 
o 
c 

c 

N 


s 

a 




is 


el 




y 


W 


140 


Pore Topsail Buntline on yard, 


s 


f4 


141 


Reef Tackles, - 


2 


4 


s 


10 


18 


149 


do. on Leach of the sail, 


2 


2 


s 


10 


18 


143 


Sheets in Clew of Sail, B. S. 


2 


4 


s 


13 


23 


144 


Leech ropes on Topsail tie, 


2 


it 


s 


8 


10 


145 


Fore Topsail Buntline Whips, 


1 


tt 


D 


8 


12 


146 


do. do. do. 


1 


u 


s 


8 


12 


147 


Clew Jiggers, - 


4 


It 


s 


9 


12 


148 


Out Rigger in Fore Top, 


1 


a 


D 


11 


12 


149 


do. do. 


1 


it 


s 


11 


12 




Fore Top Gallant Mast and Yard. 




150 


Span at Cap for Studding Sail Halyards, 


2 


1 


s 


13 


17 


151 


Jewell Blocks on Yard Arm, 


2 


1 


s 


11 


17 


152 


Siudding Sail Tacks on Boom, 


2 


1 


s 


8 


11 


153 


Boom Brace Pendants, 


2 


It 


, s 


10 


11 


154 


Leaders for Boom braces on Main Rig. 


2 


1 


s 


9 


11 


155 


Downhaul for Top Mast Studding Sail, 


2 


1 


s 


H 


10 


156 


Boom Jigger in and out, 


2 


1 


D 


8 


10 


157 


do. do. 


2 


(1 


s 


9 


11 


158 


Leaders for do. in Bunt of Yard, 


2 


tt 


s 


9 


11 


159 


Tricing Boom Tackle under Top, 


2 


1 


D 


9 


11 


160 


do. do. do. 


2 


1 


s 


9 


11 


161 


Top Gallant Mast Tack, 


1 


1 


D 


13 


13 


162 


do. do. 


1 


1 


S 


1? 


13 


163 


Jigger Tackle for Top Gallant Rigging, 


2 


(i 


D 


? 


9 


164 


do. do. do. 


2 


ii 


S 


7 


9 


165 


Top Gallant breast back Stay, turned in, 


2 


1 


D 


11 


11 


166 


do. do. Iron bound, 


2 


1 


D 


11 


11 


167 


do. Stay Tackles, 


1 


1 


D 


11 


10 


168 


do. do. 


1 


1 


S 


11 


10 


169 


Jack Blocks, - 


1 


1 


S 


14 


22 


170 


Top Gallant Halyards, 


1 


1 


D 


13 


13 


171 


do. do. 


1 


1 


S 


13 


13 


172 


do. Braces on Yard Arm, 


2 


1 


s 


10 


11 


173 


Leading do. on Main Topmast Stay, 


2 


1 


s . 


7A 


11 


174 


do. under Trussle Trees, 


2 


u 


s 


■i 


11 


175 


Top Gallant Lifts, 


2 


1 


Sister. 


IH 


16 


176 


do. do. leading in Topj 


2 


,[ 


s 


9 


16 


177 


do. Lift Jigger, 


2 


a 


D 


8 


10 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 



307 



* 


: 






CO 


CO 




a5 

CO 

O 

a 


a, 




2 

o 

c 

G 


5 
a 




£ 








92 


17. 


do. do. 


5 


a 


S 


3 


10 


179 


Top Block, Iron bound, 


1 


1 


S 


14 


22 


180 


Top Gallant Sheet on Yard Arm, B. S. 


2 


2 


S 


12 


9 


18] 


Gluarter Blocks, - 


2 


1 


D 


10 


14 


182 


Top Gallant Buntlines. 


2 


1 


S 


8£ 


10 


183 


Spare Top Gall't. Studding Sail Halyards, 


2 


1 


S 


t 


12 


184 


Jewell Blocks, - 


2 


1 


S 


8* 


12 


185 


Studding Sail Tacks, 


2 


1 


s 


b 


12 


186 


Tricing Lines, - 


2 


L< 


s 


7 


9 




Fore Royal Mast and Yard. 




187 


Fore Royal Breast Back Stays, turned in, 


2 


:< 


s 


8 


11 


188 


do. do. Iron bound, 


2 


'" 


s 


8 


11 


189 


Stay Tarkle, 


2 


1 


s 


7 


9 


190. 


Leading Royal brace on Top Gallant stay, 


2 


1 


s 


6i 


10 


19J 


do. . do. do. at Mast head, 


2 


1 


s 


Gi 


10 


192 


Gluarter Blocks, - 


2 


1 


D 


6£ 


9 


193 


Royal Buntlines, - 


1 


it 


s 


6 


9 


194 


Spare do. Studding Sail Halyards, 


2 


1 


s 


6 


9 


19, 


Jewell Blocks, ... 


2 


1 


s 


f 


9 


190 


Studding Tacks on Boom, 


2 
4 


(c 

2 


s 

s 


6 
17 


9 




Main Mast and Yard. 


30 


197 


Runners for Main Mast, B. S. 


4 


2 


D 


17 


16 


198 


Tackles for do. 


4 


2 


s 


17 


16 


199 


do. do. - 


2 


1 


D 


10 


ia 


200 


Main Truss Tackles, 


2 


1 


s 


10 


IS 


201 


do. do. 


Ci 


c 


« 


u 


<( 


202 


Jeer Runners, B. S. 


2 


1 


s 


22 


35 


203 


Jeer Tackles, - 


4 


1 


D 


22 


24 


204 


Leaders fordo. - 


2 


1 


s 


22 


24 


205 


Gluarter Blocks on Main Yard, B. S. 


2 


1 


s 


17 


23 


206 


Topsail Sheets on Yard, B. S. 


2 


2 


s 


17 


23 


20? 


Slab Lines on do. 


2 


hi 


s 


10 


13 


208 


Clew Garnets on do. 


2 


A 


s 


15 


17 


201; 


do. in Clew of Sail, 


2 


2 


s 


i: 


17 


211 


Buntlines on Main "Yard, 


4 


1 


s 


9 


13 



308 



KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 



• 


c3 

w 

p 
g 

6 
Z 

4 


u 

a, 
ri 

1 


m 

'o 
En 


o 

a 

N 

EG 
"1 


a. 


21 1 do. under Top, 


D 


\l 


212 


Main Buntlines, - 


2 


1 


Shoe. 


H 

9 


Ic 


213 


Leechlines on Yard, 


4 


1 


S 


9 


U 


214 


do under Top, 


2 


1 


S 


8 


i: 


215 


Main Leechlines, - 


2 


1 


Shoe. 


9 
9 


i: 


216 


After do. on Main Yard, 


4 


1 


S 


8 


K 


2n 


do. under Top, 


2 


1 


D 


8 


i: 


21fc 


After Leechlines, - 


2 


1 


Shoe. 


9 
9 


n 


2l£ 


Main Yard Tackle, 


2 


1 


Fiddle. 


33 


r 


22C 


do. do. - 


2 


1 


• S 


18 


i" 


221 


do. Leaders, 


2 


i 


S 


18 


V 


22S 


! Bill and Gluarter Tricing Lines, 


4 


1 


S 


8 




222 


Main Brace on Yard, 


2 


1 


S 


22 


2( 


224 


Leading Main Braces, 


2 


1 


S 


•22 


2( 


22c 


Preventer Main Braces on Yard, 


2 


i< 


S 


17 


n 


226 


Leading Preventer Main Braces on Yard, 


2 


.i 


S 


16 


r 


227 


Main Lifts on Cap, (span) 


2 


1 


D 


17 


2: 


228 


do. on Yard Arm, 


2 


1 


S 


17 


2i 


229 


Main Jigger Tackle, 


2 


1 


D 


10 


1] 


230 


do. do. 


2 


1 


S 


10 


1] 


231 


Main Clew Tackle, 


4 


Li 


S 


8 


11 


232 


do. Bunt do. 


1 


M 


D 


8 


1] 


233 


do. do. 


1 


u 


S 


8 


U 


234 


do. Reef Tackle on Yard, D Scored, 


2 


1 


s 


12 


It 


235 


do. do. in leech of sail, 


2 


2 


s 


11 


16 


236 


Main Tack on Gangway, B. S. 


2 


.t 


s 


16 


21 


237 


do. in Clew of sail, B. S. 


2 


2 


s 


16 


21 


238 


Main Sheets in do. B. S. 


2 


2 


s 


16 


2c 


239 


Runners for Main Bowline Bridle, 


2 


ii 


s 


11 


12 


240 


Tackles for do. 


4 


K 


s 


11 


IS 


241 


Tricing Lines for Studding sail Gear, 


2 


M 


s 


8 


11 


242 


Main Staysail Stay on Foremast, - 


1 


1 


s 


14 


2t 


243 


Storm Staysail Halyards in Col. of Stay, 


1 


1 


s 


14 


14 


244 


do. do. in heavy Sail, 


1 


1 


s 


12 


14 


245 


do. ^. do. Downhaulj 


1 


1 


s 


12 


12 


246 


do. Sheets, 


2 


C( 


D 


16 


13 


247 


Runner for Jumper on Main Stay, - 


1 


1 


s 


9 


16 


248 


Tackle for do. do. 


1 


a 


D 


9 


11 


249 


do. do. do. 


1 


(4 


s 


9 


11 


250 


Fore Stay Ta'ekle, - 


1 


1 


D 


17 


11 


251 


do. "do. 


1 


1 


S 


17 


1/ 


252 


Leader tor do. - 


1 


.1 


s 


17 


1/ 


253 


Main Stay Tackle 


1 


1 


D 


17 


r 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 



309 



254 Mam Stay Tackle, 

255 Leader for do. 



256 
257 

258 
259 
260 
261 
262 
263 
264 
265 
266 
267 
268 
269 
270 
271 
272 
273 
274 
275 
276 
277 
278 
279 
280 
281 
282 
283 
2S4 
285 
286 
287 
283 
289 
290 
291 



Main Topmast and Yard. 

Top Block, Iron bound, B. S. 
Top Tackle, 
Leaders for do. - 

Main Top*Burton, 

do. do. - 
do. Runners, 
Main T. M. Breast Back Stay turned in, 
do. do. Iron bound, 

do. Travelling turned in, 
do. do. Iron bound, 

Main Top Mast Stay, B. S. 

do. Spring Stay, B S. ■ 

Gin Block for Topsail Tye, B. S. - 
Topsail Tye on Yard, B. S. 
Topsail Halyards, (Fly) B. S. 
do. do. B. S. 

Leader for Topsail Halyards, B. S. 
Main Topsail Brace on Yard, 
do. leading on Collar of Mizen Stay, 
do. Span on Mizen Mast, 
do. Lifts and Reef Tackles, B. S. 
do. Lift Leaders, 
do. Lift Jiggers, 
do. Downhaul Tackle, 
Main Top sail Downhaul Tackle, 
Quarter Block on Yard, 
Clewline in Sail, - 
Rolling Tackle, - 

do. do. 
Vlain Topsail Buntlines, Mast head, 

do. d". leading on Yard, 

Reef Tackle Whips in Pendants, 

do. in leech of sail, 
Topsail sheets in Clew of sail, B. S, 
Leech Ropes on Topsail Tye, 
Main Topsail Bunt Whips, 



a 


M 




•a 






a 


o 


OS 


fc 


1 


s 


« 


s 


1 


s 


1 


D 


1 


s 


1 


Fiddle. 


1 


S 


(( 


S 


1 


D 


1 


Tripple. 


It 


D 


u 


Tripple. 


a 


S 


(i 


S . 


2 


r S 


2 


S < 


1 


D ! 


1 


S 5 


« 


S i 


1 


S 


1 


S 


1 


S 


1 


Sister, i 


(I 


S 


1 


D ] 


1 


S ] 


(< 


D 1 


1 


D J 


4 


S i 


« 


D ] 


u 


S ] 


2 


S ] 


u 


S ] 


2 


s 


2 


s 


4 


S 1 


u 


s 


1 


D 1 



310 



KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 



292 rk>. do. 

293 M ain Top Bowline in Fore Top 

294 Clew Jiggers, - 

295 Outrigger in Main Top, 
206 do. do. 

297 Staysail Halyards, at Mast head, iron b'd 

298 do. in head of 'Sail, 

299 Staysail Downhaul, 

300 do. Brails, 

301 do. Sheets in pendants, 

302 Middle Staysail Tricing Lines, 

303 do. Halyards, iron bound, 

304 do. Downhaul, 

305 Spar for Studding Sail Halyards, 

306 Jewell Blocks, 

307 Studding Sail Tacks on Boom, 

308 do. Downhaul, 

309 Boom Jigger in and out, 

310 do. do. 

311 Leaders for do. 

312 Tricing Boom Jigger, 

313 do. do. 



Main Top Gallant Mast and Yard. 

314|Top Block, {iron bound) 

315 Mast Tackle, - 

316 do. do. - 

3l~ Jigger for Top Gallant rigging, 

318 do. do. do. do. 

319 Breast Backstays, turned in, 

320 do. do. iron bound, 

321 do. do. Stay tackle, 

322 do. do. do. 

323 Jack Block for Top Gallant yard, - 

324 Top Gallant Halyards, 

325 do. do. - 

326 do. brace on yard, 

327 Leading do. on Collar of Miz. T. Gt. 

stay, - 

328 do. do. at Mast Head, 




YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 



311 



3&J9 

330 
331 
33* 
333 
334 
335 
336 

337 
338 
339 
340 
341 
342 
343 
344 
345 
346 
347 



348 
349 
350 
351 
352 
353 
354 
355 
356 
357 
358 
359 
360 



361 



Top Gallant Lifts, B. S. 
Leaders for do. - 
Lift Jigger, - - - - 

do. do. - 

Sheets on Yard arm, B S. - 
Quarter Blocks on Top Gallant Yard, 
fop Gallant Buntlines, 
Leading Main Top Gallant Stay & Bow- 
lines through chock, 1 Chock, 
At Fore Top Mast Crosstrees, 
Lower Top Gal't Staysail Tricing Lines, 
do. do. Halyards at Mast head, 
do. do. Downhaul, 
Upper Top Gallant Staysail Tricing lines, 
do. do. Halyards at Mast head, 
do. do. Downhaul, 
Spare Top Gal't Studding Sail Halyards 
Jewel Blocks on Yard Arm, 
Studding Sail Tacks on Boom, 
do. Tricing Lines, 



Main Royal Mast and Yard. 

Main Royal Backstay, turned in, 
do. do. Iron bound, 

do. Stay, 

do. Brace or Mizen T. Gal't Stay 
do. do. at Mast head, 
Quarter Block on Yard, 
Royal Buntlines, - 
do. Bowlines, - 
do. Staysail Tricing Line, 
do. do. Downhaul, 
Spare Royal Studding Sail Halyards, 
do. do. Jewel Blocks, 

do. do. Tacks on Boom, 



Mizen Mast. 
Mizen Pendant Tackles, 




S 
S 

s 
s 

S 
D 

s 
s 
s 
s 

S 

s 
s 



D 



312 



KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 



362 Mizen Pendant Tackles, 

363 Cross Jack Truss Tackle, 

364 do. do. 

365 Quarter Block on Cross Jack Yard, B. S. 

366 Topsail Sheets on Yard Arm, B. S. 

367 Cross Jack Biace on yard, 

368 do. do. Leaders, 

369 Spare Cross Jack Lifts, 

370 do. do. on Yard, 

371 Lift Jiggers, - 

372 do. 

373 Mizen Staysail Stay under Miz. Top, B.S. 

374 do. Stay Tackle, 

375 do. do. 

376 Tricing Tackle for Miz. Stay at Miz. mst 

377 do. do. 

378 Staysail Halyards on Collar of Miz. stay, 

379 do. in head of sail, 

380 Mizen Staysail Downhaul, 

381 do Brails, 

382 Storm Staysail Halyards on Collar of stay, 

383 do. do. in head of sail, 
do. Downhaul, 



385 

386 
387 
388 
389 
390 
391 
392 



Spanker Boom. 

Spanker Topping Lift under Mizen Trus- 
sle Trees, B. S. 



393 
94 



do. Boom Runner, 

do. Topping Lift Tackle, 

do. do. do. 

do. Guy do. 

do. do. do. 

Crow foot for Spanker Topping Lifts, 
Spanker Sheet, --.."-.- 



Blocks on Guff. 

Mizen Vangs, 

do. Leading on Quarter, 



S 
D 

S 

s 

s 
s 
s 

D 

s 

D 

S 

s 

D 

S 
D 

S 
S 

s 
s 
s 
s 
s 
s 



-s 
s 

D 

s 

D 

S 

s 

D 



17 
9 
9 
13 
13 
11 
13 
13 
13 



12 
12 

12 



10 
12 



10 
10 



16 
11 
11 
20 
20 
14 
14 
18 
18 
8 
8 
24 
15 
15 
10 
10 
12 
12 
11 
11 
12 
12 
10 



1 

12 
12 

12 

12 

12 

6 

16 



27 
22 
12 
12 
12 
12 
8 
17 



12 
12 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 



313 



395 
396 
39? 
398 
399 
400 
401 
402 
403 
404 



Spanker Peak brails, 

do. Middle do. 

do. Throat do. 

do. Quarter do. on Gaff, 
Spanker Foot Brails on GafF, 
Peak Halyards on Gaff, 

do. do. on Cap, Iron bound, 
Throat Halyards on Mast, 

do. on Gaff, 
Outhauler in Clew of Sail, 



405 
406 
407 
408 
409 
410 
411 
412 
413 
414 
415 
416 
417 
418 
419 
420 
421 
422 
423 
424 
425 
426 
427 
428 
429 
430 
431 
432 



Mizen Top Mast and Yard. 

Top Block, Iron bound, B. S. 

do. Tackle, 
Rolling do. - 

do. 
Topsail Buntlines at Mast head, 

do. on Yard, 
Mizen Top Runners, 
Breast Backstays, turned in, 

do. do. * Iron bound, 
Mizen Topmast Stay, B. S. 

do Spring do. B. S. 
Gin Blocks Topsail Tye, B. S. 
Topsail Tye on Yard, B. S. 

do. Halyards Fly, 
do. k - 

do. Leader, 
Mizen Top Sail Brace on Yard, 
Leading do. 

Topsail Lifts, 

do. do. 

do. Jigger, 

do. do. 
Down haul Tackles, 

do. do. 

Quarter Blocks on Yard, 
Clewline in Sail, 
ctolling Tackle, 

do. do. 

27 



to 

m 

P 
.g 

d 


CD 
U 

02 


2 


1 


2 


1 


2 


2 


2 


1 


2 


1 


2 


1 


1 


cc 


I 


tc 


1 


1 


1 


1 


•2 


1 


2 


c« 


2 


cc 


2 


cc 


2 


1 ] 


2 


1 


2 


cc 


2 


1 


2 


1 


i 


cc 


1 


cc 


1 


cc 


1 


1 


1 


1 


1 


1 


1 


cc 


2 


cc 


2 


1 


2 


1 


2 


(C 


2 


cc 


2 


cc 


1 


cc 


1 


CI 


2 


r 


2 


4 


1 


cc 


1 


<c 




S 
D 

S 
D 
Fiddle. 
S 
S 
D 
D 
S 
S 

s 

S" 
D 

S 

s 
s 
s 
s 
s 

D 

s 

D 

S 
D 
S 
D 
S 



«2 - 
11 
11 

12 
11 
11 
14 
14 
14 
14 
17 



28 
17 



11 
11 
15 
13 
13 
25 
25 
25 
25 
14 
14 
14 
13 
13 
17 
17 
8 
8 
11 
11 
14 
14 
12 
12 



314 



KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 



433 
434 

435 
436 
437 
438 
439 
440 
441 
442 
443 
444 



445 
446 

4471 
448 
449 
450 
451 
452 
453 
454 
455 
456 
457 
458 
459 
460 
461 



r op9ail Buntlines at Mast head, 

do do. on Yard, 
Reef Tackles, Whips on Pendants, 
do. do. in leech of Sail, 

Topsail Sheets irv-Clew of Sail, 
Leech Ropes on Topsail Tyes, 
Mizen '1 opsail Bunt Whips, 

do. do. 

do. Bowlines, 

do. Clew Jiggers, 
Out Rigger in Mizen Top, 

do. do. 



Leading Various Rigging on Mizen 
Mast and Quarter Deck. 

Leading Mizen Topsail Clewlines, 
do. Buntlines, 
do. Reef Tackles. 

Top Gallant Sheets, 

Royal Halyards, - 

Top Gallant do. - 

Topmast Staysail do. 

Peak and Middle brails of Spanker, 



Throat do. do. 

Foot and Quarter do. do. 

Mizen Topsail Sheets, 
Gluarter Boats Tackles, 

do. do. do. 
Stern dd. do. 

do. do. do. 
Leaders for Gluarter Boats Tackles, 
ueading Blocks on Mizen Fife Rail, D 

scored, - 



462 
463 



Miscellaneous Blocks. 

Top Girtlines, 

Mast head Girtlines F. M. & Miz. mast, 




S 
S 
S 
S 
S 

s 

D 

S 

s 
s 

D 

s 



s 
s 
s 
s 
s 
s 
s 

D 

s 

D 

S 
D 

S 
D 

S 
S 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 



315 



464 Luff Tackle tor setting up Lower rigging 

465 do. do. do. 

466 Tricing Lines for Luffs on lower Rigging 

and Stays, - - - 

467 Stopper Tackles on Fighting Luffs, 

468 Fish Tackle on Davit head D. scored, B.S 

469 do. on Fish hook Fall, 

470 do. leading on Davit head, B. S. 

471 do. in Pendants on Gangway, 

472 Tripping line for Fish Hook, 

473 Davit Guy Tackle forward, 

474 do. do. - 

475 do. do. aft, 

476 do. do. - 

477 Cat Tackle at Davit head, 

478 do.' Blocks, B. S. Iron bound. 

479 Leader for do. B.S. 

480 Back Rope for do. - 

481 Main Yard Whips, 

482 do. do. do. for Stay, 

483 do. do- do. for Swabs, 

484 Hammock and Clothes Lines, 

485 Purchase Blocks, B. S. 

486 do. do. B.S. 

487 Leader on Viol Block, B. S. 

488 Deck or Winding Tackle, - 

489 do. do. - 

490 Relieving Tackle for Tiller, 
451 do. do. 

492 Blocks for Awnings, 

493 Whips for Crowfoot, 

494 Tackles for Ridge Ropes, - 

495 Windsail Halyards, 

496 Jigger Tackles, - 

497 do. 

498 do. 

499 do. - - 



H d 



Snatch Blocks. 
IjSnatch Blocks, 




12 



316 



KEDGE ANCHORj OR 







02 


in 






<u 


fit 


a 

3 


4) 
U 


o 


5 


B 


<a 




a 




a. 








02 


«^- 


, ! 


O 




<u 


pd 


Z 




n: 


& 




6 ~ 


14 


SB 


2 


Snatch Block, 


f4 


3 


do. ..... 


7 


16 


15 


4 


do. .... 


3 


18 


18 


5 


do. .... 


2 


20 


20 


6 


do. .... 




22 


22 


7 


do. .... 




24 


23 


8 


do. .... 




26 


24 


9 


do. .... 




28 


26 


10 


do. .... 




30 


28 


11 


do. .... 




32 


30 


12 


do. B. S. - 




34 


32 


13 


do. B. S. - 




36 


34 


14 


do; B. S. - 




40 


38 


15 


do. .... 


2 


11 


10 


16 


do. .... 


2 


10 


9 


17 


do. .... 


2 


9 


8 




Dead Eyes. 




1 


Cap Bobstay, ----- 


2 2 




12 


2 


Outer Bowsprit Shrouds, - 


4 1 




10 


3 


Inner do. - 


4 1 




10 


4 


Fore Shrouds, . - - . 2 


2 2 




17 


5 


do. .... 2 


2 




17 


6 


Bentick Shrouds, - 


2 " 




12 


7 


do. - . - - 1 


2 2 




11 


8 


Fore Topmast Shrouds, . . . 1 


2 2 




11 


9 


do. do. ... 


4 1 




13 


10 


do! do. B. Stay, 


4 1 




13 


11 


do. do. _ . - 


1 1 




10 


12 


do. Stay, .... 


1 1 




10 


13 


do. do. . . - - 


1 1 




10 


14 


do. Spring Stay, ... 


1 " 




10 


15 


do. do. .... 


2 1 




8 


16 


F. T. Gallant Back Stay, 


2 1 




8 


17 


do. do. ... 


2 1 




8 


18 


Fore Royal do. - 


2 " 




6 


19 


do. do. . _ - 


2 " 




6 


20 


Main Shrouds, . _ - - 2 


2 2 




17 


21 


do. - - - - 2 


1J2 




17 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 



317 



22Bentick Shrouds, 

23 do. 

24 Main Topmast Shrouds, 

25 do. do. 

26 do. Backstay, 

27 do. do. 

28 do. do. 

29 do. Stay, 

30 do. do. 

31 Main T. Gt. Backstay, 

32 do. do. 

33 do. Royal, 

34 do. do. 

35 Mizen Shrouds, 

36 do. 

37 Mizen Topmast, 

38 do. - 

39 Mizen Backstays, 

40 do. do. 

41 do. Topgallant Backstay, 

42 do. do. 

43 Mizen Royal Stay, 

44 do. do. 



9 

10 
11 



Hearts. 



Outer Bobstay, 

[nner do. 

Upper F. Spring Stay, 

Lower do. 

Upper Fore Stay, 

Lower do. 

Upper Main Stay, 

Lower do. 

Upper Main Spring Stay, 

Lower do. 

Preventer Gammoning, 



2 

2 

14 

14 

4 

4 

1 

1 

1 

2 

2 

2 

2 

14 

16 

10 

10 

4 

4 

2 

2 

2 

2 



2T 



318 



KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 



69. Miscellaneous Articles. 





igon L Sni 


J 

ouds 


No. in use.| 
30 


Folds. 


Leading Trucks lor various Riggir 


D 


do. do. 


do. 




6 




S 


Serving Mallets, assorted from 6 to 10 inches 


» 


48 






Settling Fids, do. 


do. 




8 






Splicing Fids, do. 


do. 




24 






Commanders, -_-'„- 


** " ~~, 


_ 


' 18 






Heavers, - 


. 


_ 


24 






Serving Boards, 


- 


- 


36 






Hand Spikes, 


- 


- 


12 






Stand for Coils of spun Yarn, 


- 


- 


3 






Reels for Stretching, 






2 






70. Anchors. 






• 


Starboard Bower Anchor, 




. 




8627 


do. do. 


_ 


- 


- 


91 4 75 




Larboard Bower, 


«*•- 


- 


- 


8427 




do. Sheet, 


. 


- » 


. 


8700 




Stream Anchor, 


- 


- 


- 


2272 




No. 1. — Kedge Anchor, 


- 


- 


- 


1117 




No. 2. do. 


- 


- 


- 


800 




No. 3. do. 


- 


- 


- 


675 




No. 4. do. 


- 


- 


- 


500 




No. 5. do. 


. 


- 


- 


410 


Boats do. 


-, 


- 


- 


100 


do. do. 


- 


- 


. 


125 




do. do. 










175 



71. Distances from Spar Deck of U. S. Ship North 

Carolina. 



From Night Heads to Bowsprit Cap, 
do. do. to Jib Boom, 
do. do. to Flying Jib Boom, 
do. do. to Jib of Jib Truck, 



53 feet. 

91 " 
109 " 
128 " 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 319 

From Spar Deck to Fore Cap, - - 77j " 

do. to F. T. M; Cap, - - 122± " 

do. to F. T. Gt. Cap, - - 145^ « 

do. to F. Cap, - - 170| " 

do. to F. Skysail Truck, - 187* « 

do, to Main Cap, - 90 « 

do. .do. T. M.Cap, - 141 « 

do. do. T. Gt. Cap, - 166 « 

do. do. Royal Cap, - 193J •< 

do. do. Sky sail Truck, - 211 J " 

do. do. MizenCap, - 75i " 

do. do. do. T. M.Cap, 116 " 

do. do. do. T. Gt. Cap, 136 " 

do. do. do. Royal Cap, 158 " 

"*-"•" do. do. do. Sky sail Truck, 173 « 

Length on Spar Deck, - - - ■ - 209 " 



320 



KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 



•s 
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if 

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c 

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CO 

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* 

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o 
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8 

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s 

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KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 



74 


Scale 


of Weights for 


Cables and Hawsers. 


Size. 


fms 


wght. 


Size. 


fms= 


wght. (Size. 


fms 


|wght. Size. 


| frns 


|whgt. 1 


5 


120 


70U 


5 


100 


559 


14| 


120 


58SU 


141 


100 


4900 


51 


(i 


840 


H 


it 


700 


15 


i« 


6300 


15 


ii 


5250 


6 


« 


1008 


6 


(C 


840 


151 


u 


6720 


151 


<( 


5600 


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a 


1176 


61 


(I 


1080 


16 


it 


7168 


16 


it 


5974 


7 


tt 


1372 


7 


u 


1144 


161 


n 


7616 


161 


«< 


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17 


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1494 


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8568 


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8i 


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« 


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18 


(( 


9072 


18 


a 


7560 


9 


(( 


•2268 


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(( 


1890 


181 


t< 


9576 


18* 


ii 


7980 


9i 


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2520 


91 


a 


2100 


19 


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8424 


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75. 



RECEIPTS. 

For Blacking Ship's Standing Rigging. 



To every Gallon of Tar add two quarts of Fish 
Oil, and 1 quart Black Varnish. 



76. For Blacking Guns. 

Six pounds Bees Wax, mixed with 1 Gallon of 
Spirits of Turpentine, one paper of Lampblack mix- 
ed well together for 20 — 24 pounders. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 323 

N. B. The Bees wax to be cut fine and dissolved 
in the Turpentine before mixed with the Lampblack. 



77. For Blacking Hammock Cloths , Yards, 
and Bends. 

First scrub the cloth well with Salt Water, and 
while wet, put on the first coat of priming, which 
should be well ground, paint with 1£ lbs Bees wax 
added to each gallon of paint, after the firs l coat is 
well dry, put on second mixed as follows, viz : 

1 lb Lampblack mixed for paint, 
1 do. Red Lead, 
IGall. Paint Oil, 
£ lb. Litharge, 
£ oz. Indigo. 

Boiled for half an hour, and stirred at intervals. Care 
should be taken that the composition boils that 
length of time. After it has cooled a little add one pint 
of Spirits of Turpentine, apply when warm, and it 
will dry in a short time with a beautiful gloss, and 
be perfectly limber. This last mixture has been 
found very suitable for yards and also the bends, but 
it'must never be used too warm, particularly on Can- 
vass in which case it will lose its gloss, the priming or 



324 KEDGE ANCHOR, OR 

first coat is not put on cloths that had been black be- 
fore. 



78. Receipt for Making Liquid Blacking. 

4 oz. Ivory black, 

5 or 6 Table spoons full of Molasses, 
1^ oz. Oil of Vitriol, 

1^ do. Sweet oil, 

6 Gills of Vinegar, 

After mixing the ingredients, together well stirring 
them frequently, the Blacking will be fit for use. 



79. For Blacking Guns. 

6 oz. of Lampblack, 
3 pints of Spirits Turpen tine, 
3 oz. of Litharge, 
To be put in, after the Lampblack and Turpentine 
are well mixed, add 1 oz. of Umber to give it a gloss, 
and one Gallon bright Varnish. 



80. Composition for Blacking Guns. 

6 lbs Bees wax cut up fine, then add 7 quarts 
Spirits Turpentine, let it stand until it is well dis- 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 325 

solved, then add 1 pound Lamp black, and mix it well 
together. 



81. Recipe for making Black Varnish. 

2 lbs Gum Shallach, 
2 " of Umber, 
1 Gallon Linseed Oil, 
- lb of Lampblack, 
Boiled together for four hours over a slow fire. 



82* Composition for Blacking Hammock Cloths ', 

No l/ 

Bees wax, - - - - 20 lbs. 

Rosin, .... 4 do. 

Sprits Turpentine, - -2 Galls. 

Paint Oil ... 1 do. 

Lampblack, 6 lbs. 

Boil them well together and keep it warm while put- 
ing on. N. B. To be primed first with lead colored 
paint. 



83. Composition/or Hammock Cloths, No 2. 

Yellow Ochre, 48 lbs 

Black Paint, ... 8 " 

28 



326 KEDGE ANCHOR, OK 

Soap, - f lb. 

Fresh Water, - 3 pints. 



84. Another Receipt for Hammock Cloths, No. 3. 

Black Paint, - - * - £ lb. 

Yellow Ochre, - - - - 3 lbs 

Soap, i lb 

FreshWater, - - - -2- gill. 



85. Composition for Hammock Cloths, No. 4. 

Black paint well ground, - - 80 pounds, 
Linseed Oil, ... 10 galls. 

Bees wax, - - - - 10 pounds 
Litharge, - 5 do. 

Spirits Turpentine, - 1 gall. 

For blacking bends add 2 gallons of Tar. 



86. Composition/or Making Black Varnish. 



Spirits of Turpentine. 
Rosin, 


1 Gall. 
1 lb. 4 oz. 


Lampblack, 
Linseed Oil, - 


1 do. 4 do. 
1 quart. 



YOUNG SAILOR'S ASSISTANT. 327 

To be boiled on a slow fire for half an hour, then 
used, or laid on, when cold. 



87. Solder for Tin. 

Nothing here is necessary, but good tough borax, 
and brass well mixed together with water to the con- 
sistence of paste. 



88. Solder for Lead. 

Take two parts of water Lead and one part of tin, 
its goodness is tried by melting it, and pouring the 
size of a crown piece on a table, then if it be good, 
there will arise small bright stars or beads on it — ap- 
ply rosin when you use it. 



89. To make the best Drying Oil. 

Mix 1 ponnd of Litharge of gold to every 6 gal- 
lons of Oil, boil it over a slow fire, but not too much 
lest it prove too thick, and be unserviceable. 



I 

328 KEDGE ANCHOR. 

90. For Black Stain. 

Copperas, - - - 4oz. 

Iron rust, or a few pieces of old iron hoop, 
Vinegar, 1 gallon, 

Lampblack, - - ^ lb. 

A small quantity of Oak shavings. 









ERRATA. 


- 


Page. 5, 


15th line for Cavrick, read Carrick. 


6, 


26 


tt 


tt 


Pauch, " 


Panch. 


21, 


18 


it 


tt 


clean, " 


clear. 


49, 


14 


u 


(C 


expand " 


expend. 


58, 


12 


a 


« 


boy, " 


buoy. 


61, 


20 


tt 


tt 


those " 


these. 


83, 


23 


tt 


it 


cleats, " 


blocks. 


99, 


11 


(< 


tt 


ports, " 


parts. 


101, 


5 


tt 


tt 


booms, " 


bows. 


u 


19 


it 


tt 


and, " 


end. 


102, 


3 


u 


tt 


thrimble, " ' 


treble 


§£jr No doubt there 


an 


\ other errors, which the author hopes the 


owner will correct with the 


pen. 





THE END. 



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